/IIIKIIIT 

LIBRARY 


Vi 


UNIVERSITY   OP 
CALIFORNIA 


A  HOOSIER'S  EXPERIENCE 


WESTERN   EUROPE 


^zWTtc^r 


/ 


'a^Ut*  d.  Am** 


A  HOOSIER'S  EXPERIENCE 


WESTERN     EUROPE, 


NOTES  ON  THE  WAY. 

BY 

JOHN    S.    BENDER. 

ILLUSTRATED. 


PLYMOUTH,  IND. : 

PUBLISHED     FOR     THE     AUTHOR. 
l88o. 


ftlAlA  L»* 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1879,  by 

JOHN    S.    BENDER, 

In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington,  D.  C. 


2)9  6>7 


TO   THE 

HON.    SCHUYLER    COLFAX, 

Ex-Vice-President  of  the  U.  S.  of  America^ 


PUBLIC  AND    PRIVATE    LABORS  WERE  ALWAYS  PERFORMED 

WITH  REFERENCE  TO  THE  BEST  INTERESTS  OF  THE 

PEOPLE, 

(Eljis   Book 

IS  MOST  RESPECTFULLY  DEDICATED. 


493 


CONTENTS 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

PREFACE IS 

Letters  of  introduction  from — 

Hon.  D.  D.  Pratt 17 

Senator  O.  P.  Morton 17 

Ex-Vice-President  Schuyler  Colfax    .        .  17 

General  Instructions  in  regard  to  Passports  19 

Form  of  a  Passport 25 

INTRODUCTION        .        .        .        .        .        .        .27 

CHAPTER   I. 

From  Plymouth,  Indiana,  to  New  York — A  few  hours 
^.t  Fort  Wayne,  Indiana — Mr.  Laufferty,  Cunard 
agent  at  Fort  Wayne  —  The  Pittsburg,  Fort 
Wayne,  and  Chicago  Railroad — The  Pennsylvania 

Central  Railroad 33 

(9) 


10  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER    II. 

PAGE 

New  York — The  spat  with  the  Cunard  agent      .        .      38 

CHAPTER   III.  < 

New  York  City — Central  Park — Five  Points — Brook- 
lyn— Plymouth  Church — Henry  Ward  Beecher     .      47 

CHAPTER   IV. 

New  York  to  Liverpool — Landing  at  the  docks  at 
Jersey  City — Scenes  on  board — The  first  supper — 
Incidents  while  crossing — Presenting  a  purse  to 
the  chief  steward — Stranded 53 

CHAPTER   V. 

Landing  at  Liverpool — At  the  station — The  railroads 
— Cars — London 68 

CHAPTER  VI. 
A  stroll  in  London — Billingsgate,  etc.  76 

CHAPTER  VII. 

The  stroll  continued — Somerset  House — Houghton's 
— Old  Bailey — Old  London  Stone — Its  history —  . 
Hamburg  Bank — St.  Paul's  Cathedral — British 
Museum — The  Romans — Grecian  and  Egyptian 
rooms  —  Mark  Antony  —  Cleopatra  —  The  Royal 
Library — The  original  Magna  Charta      ...      83 


CONTENTS.  *  1 1 

CHAPTER   VIII. 

PAGE 

London  and  Southwestern  Railroad— Chalk  hills — 
Denzell  Place  —  Anecdote  —  Southampton  —  Ca- 
nute—Edmund Ironsides— The  old  Norman  wall 
and  gate — Hartley  Library— Dr.  Watts'  Monu- 
ment   9r 

CHAPTER    IX. 

Salisbury  Cathedral — Druids'  Inn — Stonehenge — Its 

•    origin 9^ 

CHAPTER   X. 

Netley  Abbey — Camp  Clausentum — Victoria  Hos- 
pital— Winchester  Cathedral — St.  Cross  Hospital     106 

CHAPTER   XI. 

Going  to  St.  Luke's  Church — Description  of  same — 

Blundell  family — Winchester — St.  Giles'  Hill         .     114 

CHAPTER   XII. 

Back  to  London — Westminster  Abbey — What  Addi- 
son says  of  it — Goldsmith's  opinion  of  it — The 
Author's  comments 122 

CHAPTER   XIII. 

Porter  found — River  Thames — Tower  of  London — 

White  Tower — Royal  jewels,  etc.    .        .        .        .129 


12  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER   XIV. 

PAGE 

The  Alhambra — Frightened  porter — What  we  saw  at 
the  Alhambra — What  we  escaped,  etc.   .        .        .139 

CHAPTER   XV. 
Palace  of  Westminster — House  of  Commons — West- 
minster Hall — Crystal  Palace — Egyptian  Court — 
Lincoln's  Inn,  etc 147 

CHAPTER   XVI. 
Aboard    for    Paris  —  Chiselhurst  —  Dover  —  English 

Channel — Calais — Amiens — Paris   .        .        .        .159 

CHAPTER   XVII. 
Paris — Madeline — Rue  de  Rivoli — Louvre — Place  de 
la   Concorde  —  Champs   d'Elysees —  Arc  di   Tri- 
omphe — Tuilleries — Notre  Dame     .        .        .        .167 

CHAPTER   XVIII. 
The  French  people — Character,  etc 179 

CHAPTER  XIX. 
Homeward  bound — Paris  to  Calais — Crossing  the 
channel — The  writer's  first  sea-sickness — How  . 
the  passengers  felt  —  On  arriving  at  Dover — 
Aboard  the  wrong  train— Custom-house  scene 
at  Charing  Cross,  London — The  officer's  courtesy 
— Underground  Railroad — Victoria  station — The 
lost  trunk  found — London  to  Liverpool— Custom- 
house officer  at  Liverpool — Two  days  in  Liver- 
pool— Getting  ready  to  start  for  New  York    .        .185 


CONTENTS.  13 

CHAPTER  XX. 

PAGE 

From  Liverpool  to  New  York — Getting  aboard — The 
Cuba — List  of  passengers — Irish  coast — Cork  har- 
bor— An  hour  in  Queenstown,  Ireland — Our  log- 
book— Dutch  anecdote — The  Author's  arrest — 
The  court  on  board,  and  its  decree — Christmas  on 
board — The  arrest  of  Mr.  Bragg,  the  iron  mer- 
chant, and  his  conviction — Our  situation  Dec. 
26th  and  27th,  1874 — Arrest,  trial,  and  defense  of 
the  Scotch  wit — Accident  to  Mr.  Bliss — New  York     197 

CHAPTER   XXI. 

The  English  people ;  their  character,  manners,  and 
customs,  from  a  Hoosier  stand-point — Their  char- 
acter as  a  body  politic,  etc 215 

CHAPTER   XXII. 

A  Sunday  in  Brooklyn  on  my  return  from  Europe — 
At  the  morning  service  of  Plymouth  Church — At 
the  Tabernacle  during  the  evening  service  of  Dr. 
Talmage 227 

Full  list  of  passengers  aboard  the  Russia,  Novem- 
ber 18,  1874,  bound  for  Liverpool    ....     232 

Full  list  of  passengers  per  Mail  Steamer  Cuba,  from 
Liverpool  to  New  York,  Dec.  19,  1874     .        .        .235 


PREFACE. 


Being  aware  of  the  fact  that  many  Americans 
of  eminent  literary  and  scientific  attainments  visit 
Europe  for  the  purpose  of  adding  to  literature 
and  science,  whose  productions  teem  with  ob- 
servations and  critical  details  on  the  places  of 
antiquity,  works  of  art,  manners  and  customs  of 
the  people  of  England,  Ireland,  and  France,  the 
writer  had  not  intended  that  any  of  his  jottings 
or  rambling  notes  should  ever  appear  in  book 
form.  On  returning  from  the  Old  World,  as 
most  Americans  desire  to  do  after  an  absence  of 
a  few  months,  a  letter  appeared  in  the  Marshall 
County  Republican  giving  a  description  of  a 
mid- winter  voyage  from  Liverpool  to  New  York. 
The  ocean  leaf  of  the  book  of  most  travelers 
being  blank,  the  letter  referred  to  called  forth 
some  encomiums  from  our  home  county  press, 
with  a  suggestion  that  the  same  be  published  in 
book  form.  It  was  after  this  that  the  author  col- 
lected such  notes,  as  he  had  penciled  on  the  way 

•(15) 


l6  PREFACE. 

for  the  present  little  volume.  And  to  show  that 
because  the  ocean  is  rough,  it  by  no  means  always 
happens  that  the  passengers  are  gloomy — rather 
the  reverse ;  to  furnish  some  information,  per- 
haps, and  amusement  to  the  reader  (particularly 
those'who  may  wish  to  make  a  similar  trip),  the 
request  of  a  few  personal  friends,  and  to  fill  up 
the  blank  leaf  on  the  ocean,  form  my  only  apology 
for  6ffering  it  for  publication  now. 

Author. 


Note. — in  the  preparation  of  this  work  for  the  press, 
we  acknowledge  our  obligations  to  Mr.  Milton  Gunckel, 
of  Dayton,  Ohio. 


LETTERS   OF   INTRODUCTION.  \J 

LETTER  OF  INTRODUCTION. 

United  States  Senate  Chamber,  ) 
Washington,  June  nth,  1874.     \ 

Hon.  Robert  C.  Schenck,  U.  S.  Minister  to  Great 
Britain  : 
Dear  Sir  :  The  bearer  of  this,  John  S.  Bender,  Esq., 
now  of  Plymouth,  Indiana,  is  a  respectable  citizen  and 
attorney-at-law,  who  contemplates  visiting  Europe  this 
summer,  taking  London  in  his  route. 

We  will  be  thankful  for  any  official  attention  you  can 
give  him.  His  visit,  we  understand,  is  one  of  pleasure  and 
recreation,  and  not  of  business. 

Yours  respectfully, 

D.  D.  Pratt, 
O.  P.  Morton. 


LETTER  OF   INTRODUCTION. 

South  Bend,  Ind.,  June  i^tn,  1874. 
My  Dear  Mr.  Bender  :  I  congratulate  you  on  the  de- 
lightful and  invigorating  European  tour  before  you,  and 
wish  for  you  favoring  breezes  and  sunny  skies  as  you  cross 
the  ocean.  If  I  can  ever  get  through  the  invitations  to 
speak  all  over  the  country,  and  have  a  few  months  I  can 
call  my  own,  Mrs.  C.  and  I  will  follow  in  your  footsteps, 
that  we,  too.  may  have  a.  few  glimpses  of  the  Old  World. 
If,  in  your  sojournings  and  travels,  you  should  find  any 
official  or  citizen,  who  knows  me,  and  who  would  value  a 
letter  of  introduction  from  a  private  citizen,  as  I  am  now, 
and  intend  to  be,  please  use  this  as  such  letter,  commend- 
ing to  their  confidence  and  regard  one  whom  I  know  to 
be  so  worthy. 

Very  truly  yours, 

Schuyler  Colfax. 
John  S.  Bender,  Esq. 


GENERAL  INSTRUCTIONS  IN  REGARD 
TO    PASSPORTS. 

As  furnished  to  me  by  the  Department. 

Citizens  of  the  United  States  visiting  foreign 
countries  are  liable  to  serious  inconvenience  if 
unprovided  with  authentic  proof  of  their  national 
character.  The  best  safeguard  is  a  passport  from 
this  Department,  certifying  the  bearer  to  be  a 
citizen  of  the  United  States.  Passports  are  issued 
only  to  citizens  of  the  United  States  upon  appli- 
cation supported  by  proof  of  citizenship.  Citi- 
zenship is  acquired  by  nativity,  by  naturalization, 
and  by  annexation  of  territory.  An  alien  woman 
who  marries  a  citizen  of  the  United  States  there- 
by becomes  a  citizen.  Minor  children,  resident 
in  the  United  States,  become  citizens  by  the  nat- 
uralization of  their  father.  The  oath  of  allegiance 
to  the  United  States,  as  prescribed  by  law,  will 
be  required  in  all  cases  where  a  renewal  is  re- 
quired of  a  passport  issued  prior  to  the  year  1861. 

(19) 


20     INSTRUCTIONS   IN   REGARD   TO    PASSPORTS. 

In  an  application  for  the  renewal  of  a  passport 
the  original  need  not  be  returned  ;  a  reference  to 
its  date  and  number  will  be  sufficient. 

When  the  applicant  is  a  native  citizen  of  the 
United  States,  he  must  transmit  an  affidavit  of 
this  fact,  signed  by  him,  stating  his  age  and  place 
of  birth,  and  sworn  to  by  himself,  and  one  other 
citizen  of  the  United  States  named  therein,  to 
whom  he  is  personally  known  and  to  the  best  of 
whose  knowledge  and  belief  the  declaration  made 
by  him  is  true.  This  affidavit  must  be  attested 
by  a  Notary  Public,  under  his  signature  and  seal 
of  office.  When  there  is  no  notary  in  the  place, 
the  affidavit  may  be  made  before  a  Justice  of  the 
Peace,  or  other  officer  authorized  to  administer 
oaths,  but  if  he  has  no  seal  his  official  act  must 
be  authenticated  by  a  certificate  of  the  Court.  If 
the  applicant  be  a  naturalized  citizen,  his  applica- 
tion for  a  passport  must  be  accompanied  by  a 
certified  copy  of  the  record  of  naturalization 
(commonly  called  Certificate  of  Naturalization) 
from  the  Court  in  which  the  naturalization  was 
granted,  and  he  must  state  under  oath  that  he  is 
the  identical  person  described  in  the  certificate 
presented. 

The  wife  or  widow   of  a  naturalized   citizen, 


INSTRUCTIONS   IN   REGARD   TO    PASSPORTS.    21 

must  transmit  a  certificate  of  the  record  of  her 
husband's  naturalization,  stating  under  oath  that 
she  is  such  wife  or  widow. 

The  children  of  a  naturalized  citizen  must  trans- 
mit a  certificate  of  the  record  of  the  father's  nat- 
uralization, stating  under  oath,  that  they  are  such 
children,  and  were  minors  at  the  time  of  such 
naturalization. 

The  application  should  be  accompanied  by  a 
description  of  the  person,  stating  the  following 
particulars,  viz: 

Age, years  ;    stature, feet inches 

(English  measure) ;     forehead, ;    eyes, ; 

nose, ;  mouth, ;  chin, ;  hair, ; 

complexion, ;  face, . 

When  the  applicant  is  to  be  accompanied  by 
his  wife,  minor  children,  or  servants,  it  will  be 
sufficient  to  state  the  names  and  ages  of  such  per- 
sons, and  their  relationship  to  the  applicant. 

A  woman's  passport  may  also  include  her  minor 
children  and  servants. 

The  oath  of  allegiance  to  the  United  States,  as 
prescribed  by  law,  will  be  required  in  all  cases. 

When  husband,  wife,  minor  children,  and  serv- 
ants, expect  to  travel  together,  a  single  passport 
for  the  whole  will  suffice.     For  any  other  per- 


22    INSTRUCTIONS   IN   REGARD   TO   PASSPORTS. 

son  in  the  party  a  separate  passport  will  be 
required. 

A  new  passport  will  be  expected  to  be  taken 
out  by  every  person,  whenever  he  or  she  may 
leave  the  United  States,  and  every  passport  must 
be  renewed,  either  at  this  Department  or  at  a 
Legation  or  Consulate  abroad,  within  two  years 
from  its  date. 

Certificates  of  citizenship  or  passports  issued 
by  State  authorities,  or  by  Judicial  or  Municipal 
functionaries  of  the  United  States,  are  not  recog- 
nized by  the  officers  of  Foreign  Governments  ; 
and  by  the  twenty-third  section  of  the  Act  of 
Congress,  approved  on  the  18th  of  August,  1856, 
it  is  made  penal  for  such  authorities  and  function- 
aries to  issue  such  passports. 

In  issuing  passports  to  naturalized  citizens,  the 
Department  will  be  guided  by  naturalization  cer- 
tificates, and  the  signature  to  the  application  and 
oath  of  allegiance  should  conform  in  orthography 
to  that  in  the  naturalization  paper. 

Military  service  does  not  of  itself  confer  citi- 
zenship. A  person  of  alien  birth  who  has  been 
honorably  discharged  from  military  service  in 
the  United  States,  but  who  has  not  been  natural- 
ized, should  not  transmit  his  discharge  paper  in 


INSTRUCTIONS  IN   REGARD   TO   PASSPORTS.    23 

application  for  a  passport,  but  should  apply  to 
the  proper  Court  for  admission  to  citizenship,  and 
transmit  a  certified  copy  of  the  record  of  such 
admission. 

A  person  abroad,  but  whose  father  was  a  native 
citizen  of  the  United  States,  must  state,  under 
oath,  that  his  father  was  born  in  the  United  States, 
and  was  a  citizen  thereof  at  the  time  of  the  appli- 
cant's birth.  This  affidavit  must  be  supported  by 
that  of  one  other  citizen  acquainted  with  the 
facts. 

Passports  may  b'e  issued  by  the  Diplomatic 
representatives  of  the  United  States  in  foreign 
countries.  The  Minister  is  required  to  charge  a 
fee  of  five  dollars,  lor  each  passport  issued  from 
his  legation.  No  fee  is  charged  for  passports  is- 
sued by  the  Secretary  of  State. 

To  persons  wishing  to  obtain  passports  for 
themselves,  blank  forms  of  application  will  be 
furnished  by  this  Department  on  request ;  stating 
whether  the  applicant  be  a  native  or  naturalized 
citizen.  Forms  are  not  furnished,  except  as  sam- 
ples, to  those  who  make  a  business  of  procuring 
passports. 

Communications  should  be  addressed  to  the 
Department  of  State,  indorsed  "  Passport  Bureau," 


24    INSTRUCTIONS   IN   REGARD   TO    PASSPORTS. 

and  each  communication  should  give  the  Post- 
office  address  of  the  person  to  whom  the  answer 
is  to  be  directed. 

Professional  titles  will  not  be  inserted  in  pass- 
ports. 

Passports  can  not  be  issued  to  aliens  who  have 
only  declared  their  intention  to  become  citizens. 


FORM  OF  PASSPORT. 


THE  UNITED  STATES  OF  AMERICA. 

To  all  to  Whom  These  Presents  Shall  Come 
Greeting  : 


/,  the  undersigned,  Secretary  of  State  of  the  United  States 
of  America, 


Description. 

<Ag e,  47  years. 
Stature,  5  ft.«7  in. 

(English). 
Forehead,  high. 
Eyes,  blue. 
Nose,  Grecian. 
Moutfi,  medium. 
Chin,  round. 
Hair,  light  brown. 
Complexion,  fair. 
Face,  broad. 

Signature  of  the 

Bearer, 
John  S.  Bender. 


hereby  request  all  whom  it  may  con- 
cern, to  permit  safely  and  freely  to 
pass, 

John  S.  Bender, 

a  citizen  of  the  United  States,  and 
in  case  of  need  to  give  him  all  lawful 
Aid  and  Protection. 

Given  under  my  hand  and  the  im- 
pression of  the  Seal  of  the  Department 
of  State  at  the  City  of  Washington,  the 
7th  day  of  May,  a.d.  1874,  in  the  98th 
year  of  the  Independence  of  the  Uni- 
ted States. 

No.  38,868. 
[l.s.]  Hamilton  Fish. 

(25) 


INTRODUCTION, 


AS  observation  forms  one  of  the  principal 
channels  through  which  knowledge  is  ob- 
tained, and  as  the  most  practical  information  is 
acquired  by  a  personal  view  of  the  work  of  the 
ancient  and  medieval  ages,  from  early  life  it  was 
a  chief  desire  with  me,  intensified  by  increasing 
years,  to  visit  the- Eastern  Hemisphere.  Strange 
as  it  may  seem,  as  the  desires  increased  the  oppor- 
tunities diminished,  so  that  in  the  beginning  of 
the  year  1874  all  probabilities  that  I  should  ever 
see  anything  beyond  the  Atlantic,  had  been  ob- 
literated. During  these  years  of  sanguine  ex- 
pectation, it  had  also  been  a  conjecture  that  a 
party  excursion  trip  would  be,  above  all  others, 
the  most  interesting,  and  perhaps  the  most  in- 
structive. To  be  in  a  jolly  company  (with  all  my 
early  notions  of  piety  sticking  to  me),  was  always 
agreeable — and  I  am  not  a  convert  yet  to  the 
stoical  faith.     I  never  could  see  wherein  extreme 

<»7) 


28  INTRODUCTION. 

dignity  and  gravity  were  either  conduciye  to 
health  or  good  morals.  But  as  human  plans  are 
scarcely  ever  carried  out  according  to  the  orig- 
inal design  ;  so  in  this  it  was  not  my  good  fortune 
to  be  possessed  of  excellent  health,  nor  permitted 
to  make  the  trip  with  an  excursion  party.  In  the 
early  part  of  1874  the  writer  became  afflicted 
with  a  nervous  disease,  which  threatened  to  be- 
come troublesome  to  manage,  whereupon  a 
change  ,of  climate  was  recommended.  Then  I 
began  to  think  seriously  of  abandoning  business 
and  making  speedy  preparations  for  a  European 
trip.  To  this  end  a  passport  from  Secretary  Fish 
and  letters  of  introduction  from  ex- Vice-Presi- 
dent Colfax,  and  Senators  Morton  and  Pratt,  were 
procured,  all  of  which  we  have  included  here- 
with.* Having  now  obtained  the  necessary 
means  of  protection  abroad,  I  considered  myself 
ready;  but  business  interests  and  circumstances 
interfered,  and  the  journey  was  abandoned.  My 
malady  having  increased,  I  visited  Cleveland  for 
temporary  relief  in  August  of  the  same  year,  and 
after  spending  one  month  at  Dr.  Seeley's  Water 


*  Since  writing  the  above,  Senators  Morton  and:  Pratt  have 
deceased,  much  lamented,  their  deaths  being  viewed  as  a  national 
calamity. 


INTRODUCTION.  29 

Cure,  returned  by  way  of  the  lakes,  somewhat 
improved/to  our  humble  home  in  Plymouth,  In-' 
diana,  where  I  again  entered  upon  the  duties  of 
my  profession.  Soon  feeling,  however,  that  an 
absolute  change  of  climate  was  necessary  to  a 
recovery,  on  the  9th  day  of  November,  being 
provided  with  additional  letters  of  introduction, 
I  boarded  the  cars  on  the  Pittsburgh,  Fort  Wayne 
and  Chicago  Railroad,  at  Plymouth,  Indiana,  for 
my  journey.  Although  I  did  not  use  either  pass- 
port or  letters  of  introduction  while  abroad,  I  am 
as  much  obliged  and  feel  under  the  same  obliga- 
tions to  those  generous  statesmen  who  tendered 
their  kindness  ;  and  acknowledge  that  I  owe  them 
the  same  lasting  debt  of  gratitude,  as  though  they 
had  been  of  invaluable  service  to  me.  No  one 
visiting  a  foreign  country  should  ever  do  so  with- 
out a  passport.  The  letters  of  introduction  are 
not  wholly  indispensable.  Hence,  for  the  benefit 
of  those  who  might  wish  to  visit  Europe,  that  may 
read  this  book,  I  have  taken  the  liberty,  without 
special  permission,  to  insert  instructions  for  ob- 
taining passports,  together  with  a  copy  of  the 
passport  and  letters  of  introduction.  The  suc- 
ceeding chapters  are  the  result  of  the  trip  ;  and  if 
not  as  carefully  prepared  as  if  the  writer  had  in- 


30  INTRODUCTION. 

tended  them  in  the  beginning  for  publication,  the 
reader  can  have  the  assurance  that,  without  any 
attempt  to  draw  on  the  imagination,  they  are  the 
simple  narrative  of  incidents,  knowledge,  and  ex- 
perience derived  from  actual  observation.  The 
chapter  containing  the  little  misunderstanding 
with  the  agents  of  the  Cunard  Line  at  Bowling 
Green,  New  York,  might  not  be  thought  approT 
priate  for  publication,  and  it  would  be  more  con- 
sistent with  the  feelings  of  the  writeF  not  to  in- 
sert it;  but  as  it  has  been  the  aim  to  give  inci- 
dents and  experience  on  the  shady  as  well  as  the 
sunny  side,  and  as  the  officers  and  men  managing 
the  ship  were  of  the  highest  character  and  dignity, 
I  shall  give  the  incident  and  then  praise  the  bridge 
that  carried  me  safely  over.  If  I  have  not  given 
to  the  reader  such  a  book  as  I  desire,  upon  the 
whole,  I  console  myself  with  the  idea  that  there 
are  none  who  may  peruse  these  pages,  who  would 
not  be  better  qualified  afterward  to  enter  upon  a 
similar  journey  than  the  writer  was  at  the  com- 
mencement of  his;  and  should  the  reader  never 
have  the  opportunity  of  seeing  beyond  the  At- 
lantic, we  trust  there  will  be  enough  matter  of 
information  contained  herein,  to  be  an  equivalent 
for  the  money  paid  and  the  time  expended  in 


INTRODUCTION.  31 

reading  the  same.  The  chapter  containing  the 
notes  of  popular  and  antiquated  places  visited 
we  have  no  apology  to  offer  for,  as  it  contains  the 
facts  noted  down  at  the  time  from  personal  ob- 
servation. The  chapter  on  the  manners,  customs, 
habits,  and  tastes  of  the  people,  are  but  the  logi- 
cal deductions  of  our  observations. 


CHAPTER  I. 

FROM  PLYMOUTH,  INDIANA,  TO  NEW  YORK — A 
FEW  HOURS  AT  FORT  WAYNE — MR.  LAUFFERTY, 
CUNARD  AGENT  AT  FORT  WAYNE — THE  PITTS- 
BURGH, FORT  WAYNE,  AND  CHICAGO  RAILROAD 
— THE  PENNSYLVANIA  CENTRAL  RAILROAD. 

THE  taking  leave  did  not  prove  a  more  seri- 
ous matter  than  it  would  have  been  thirty 
years  ago  when  one  set  out  to  go  from  Philadel- 
phia to  Chicago.  A  general  good-bye,  and  nod  of 
the  head,  the  car  whistle,  and  the  journey  was 
commenced.  After  a  few  hours  of  pleasant  riding 
over  the  Pittsburgh,  Fort  Wayne,  and  Chicago 
Railroad,  the  city  of  Fort  Wayne,  Indiana,  was 
reached.  I  stepped  off  to  see  a  brother  and  his 
wife  who  reside  there.  Passing  down  the  street 
I  observed  a  large  sign,  giving  notice  to  the 
traveling  public  that  tickets  could  be  purchased 
there  for  a  passage  on  almost  any  line  of  ocean 
steamers.  And  as  a  guarantee  of  the  good  faith  of 
the  official,  he  gave  his  name,  J.  LaufFerty,  agent, 
Not  having  purchased  my  ticket,  and  being  un- 

2*  (33) 


34       NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

accustomed  to  ocean  travel,  I  visited  this  office 
to  get  some  information  as  to  the  departure  of 
steamers  and  the  price  of  tickets,  and  learned 
that  the  Russia  was  to  leave  the  Cunard  dock  on 
the  following  Saturday,  and  that  I  could  procure 
a  ticket  from  New  York  to  Liverpool  and  return, 
first  cabin,  on  the  Cunard  line,  for  one  hundred 
and  sixty  dollars,  and  on  any  of  the  others  for 
one  hundred  and  fifty  dollars  in  gold.  Having 
obtained  this  information,  I  thanked  the  agent 
and  was  about  to  take  my  leave  when  he  sug- 
gested that  I  had  better. purchase  a  ticket.  I  in- 
formed him  that  I  would  prefer  to  purchase  in 
New  York  as  I  did  not  want  any  interruption, 
and  further  remarked  that  I  wished  to  purchase 
my  ticket  where  I  could  procure  my  letter  of 
credit.  The  agent  assured  me  that  he  could  sell 
a  round  first-cabin  ticket  as  cheaply  as  they 
could  sell  me  one  in  New  York,  and  that  I  would 
have  no  trouble  with  it;  and  at  the  same  time 
could  sell  me  a  bill  of  exchange  on  the  Hamburg 
Bank  in  London  that  would  answer  the  purpose 
as  well  as  a  letter  of  credit.  T  told  him  then  and 
there,  if  he  would  inform  me  how  a  stranger  in  a 
strange  city  could  identify  himself,  so  as  to  re- 
ceive the  money  on  a  draft  in  London,  \  would 


FROM   INDIANA  TO   NEW.  YORK.  35 

negotiate  with  him.  He  would  not  inform  me 
how  this  was  to  be  done,  but  replied,  "  All  you 
will  be  required  to  do  is  to  present  your  check 
at  the  bank,  and  it  will  be  promptly  paid  ;"  and 
if  I  had  any  trouble,  "  On  your  return  I  will  pay 
all  charges." 

Knowing  Mr.  LaufFerty  to  be  a  responsible,  as 
well  as  a  man  otherwise  reliable,  with  this  assur- 
ance I  purchased  my  ticket  for  a  first-class  cabin 
voyage  via.  the  Cunard  line — that  being  my 
choice — for  a  round  trip  from  New  York  via. 
Liverpool  and  London  to  Paris  and  return,  with 
an  agreement  that  I  was  to  take  the  first  steamer 
that  sailed  from  New  York.  The  generous  agent 
also  tendered  me  a  letter  of  introduction  to  Mr. 
Francklyn,  the  general  agent  of  the  line  at  New 
York.  Being  thus  provided  for,  I  took  tea  with 
my  brother  and  his  wife,  and  in  good  spirits  im- 
mediately after  took  the  train  and  continued'  my 
journey.  As  it  was  night,  I  availed  myself  of 
one  of  Pullman's  sleeping-cars ;  and  as  the 
smooth  movement  of  the  car  convinced  me  that 
the  road-bed  was  in  excellent  order,  I  took  pos- 
session of  my  bunk*  and  remained  in  peaceful 
slumber  until  the  gong  rang  for  breakfast  at 
Alliance,  Ohio,  after  which,  I  was  left  unmolested 


36  NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN   EUROPE. 

to  view  the  scenery  along  the  line  until  night 
overtook  me  at  Altoona,  Penn. 

The  mountain  scenery  from  Pittsburgh  to 
Harrisburg  will  pay  any  one  for  the  money  and 
time  expended  on  a  trip  through  the  country 
between  those  cities. 

From  Altoona  to  Newark,  New  Jersey,  the 
scenery  was  lost  to  me  in  the  darkness ;  but  my 
trip  over  the  Pennsylvania  Central  and  Pitts- 
burgh, Fort  Wayne,  and  Chicago  railways  was 
pleasant  indeed,  as  I  had  nothing  to  do  but  eat, 
drink,  and  view  the  scenery.  A  short  time  after 
leaving  Newark,  on  Thursday  morning,  Novem- 
ber 1 2th,  I  reached  the  ferry  at  Jersey  City,  and 
was  soon  in  New  York  City. 

Before  reaching  the  ferry,  an  agent  of  what 
purported  to  be  the  New  York  Transfer  Coaches, 
came  aboard  and  sold  me  a  ticket  for  fifty  cents, 
whfch  was  to  take  me  to  my  hotel.  As  I  stepped 
ashore  I  looked  anxiously  for  the  medium  of 
transfer,  but  no  coach  was  to  be  seen.  This 
swindling  agent  deceived  me,  and  if  he  ever 
comes  to  my  town  I  will  cheerfully  give  him 
fifty  cents  more  for  having,  the  privilege  of  tell- 
ing him  of  it.  I  hired  a  private  conveyance,  and 
was  soon  at  Crook's  Hotel  (European),  where  1 


FROM    INDIANA   TO   NJEW   YORK.  37 

was  kindly  received,  and  found  excellent  fare. 
Having  taken  a  short  rest,  my  next  duty,  as  well 
as  pleasure,  was  to  visit  the  agents  of  the  steamship 
line,  get  my  ticket  recognized,  engage  a  state- 
room,  find  out  when  the  ship  sailed,  and  then 
occupy  the  remainder  of  the  time  in  viewing 
some  of  the  features  of  the  great  metropolis  ;  the 
result  of  which  will  be  found  in  the  following 
chapter. 


CHAPTER  II. 

NEW  YORK — A  SPAT  WITH  THE  CUNARD  AGENTS. 

IT  was  one  of  the  conditions  of  my  contract 
with  the  agent  at  Fort  Wayne  that  I  should 
call  at  the  Cunard  passenger  office,  then  No.  4 
Bowling  Green,  at  the  foot  of  Broadway,  and 
present  the  ticket  there  to  the  agent,  who,  I  was 
informed,  would  readily  take  up  the  Fort  Wayne 
ticket,  issue  a  new  one,  and  assign  me  a  berth  in 
the  first  steamer  to  sail.  This  I  wished  done 
before  any  pleasure  or  sight-seeing  in  the  city 
should  occupy  the  mind.  To  this  end  I  called  at 
No.  4  Bowling  Green,  a  building  rendered  some- 
what memorable  by  its  having  been  the  place 
where  Geflrge  Washington  had  his  headquarters 
at  one  time  during  the  Revolutionary  war,  and 
also  from  the  fact  that  some  of  the  knobs  belong- 
ing to  the  iron  pickets  of  its  ancient  railing  were 
broken  off  and  used  as  cannon-balls  against  the 
British  fleet,  which  was  attempting  a  landing  on 
the  shore  below.     The  headless  pickets  were  yet 

standing  there  as  a  memorial  of  this  remarkable 

(38) 


A.   SPAT   WITH   THE   CUNARD   AGENTS.  39 

recourse  by  our  revolutionary  fathers.  Well, 
after  satisfying  myself  that  the  historian  had  made 
no  mistake  as  to  the  pickets,  I  walked  into  the 
office,  where  I  found  a  young  clerk  dressed  with 
great  neatness,  and  as  dignified  as  young  Bar- 
nacle in  Dickens'  Circumlocution  Office.  He 
was  alone,  and  I  inquired  if  he  attended  to  the 
ticket  office. 

He  replied  :  "  The  steamship  Russia  sails  next 
Wednesday,  fare  one  hundred  and  thirty  dollars 
in  gold,  from  New*York  to  Liverpool." 

u  But  I  am  not  come  to  inquire  about  the  price 
of  tickets,  only  to  arrange  for  a  passage  and  have 
a  berth  assigned  rile,"  at  the  same  time  exhibit- 
ing my  ticket  purchased  in  Fort  Wayne. 

To  this  he  replied  :  "  I  know  nothing  about  it ; 
you  will  have  to  wait  until  the  agent  comes.'' 

I  then  inquired  if  Mr.  Francklyn  would  soon 
be  in,  and  informed  him  that  1  had  a  letter  of  in- 
troduction to  him  from  their  agent  at  Fort 
Wayne.  I  then  received  the  highly  gratifying 
intelligence  that  Mr.  Francklyn  was  not  in  the* 
city,  and  would,  perhaps,  not  return  until  after 
the  steamer  left  port. 

Said  I :  "  Is  there  any  person  here  representing 
Mr.  Francklyn?  " 


40       NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

He  said:   "No." 

"  Will  any  one  soon  be  here  that  can  attend  to 
the  arrangement  of  passes  and  assignment  of 
berths  ?  " 

To  which  I  received  the  answer  that  "  To- 
morrow morning,  if  you  will  come  down,  there 
will  be  some  one  here  who  will  attend  to  that." 

u  Can  I  get  information  from  any  source  as  to 
where  Mr.  Francklyn  is,  and  when  he  will  re- 
turn?" 

Young  Barnacle  replied  :  "  May  be  they  can 
tell  you  over  at  the  steerage  office." 

After  this  very  unsatisfactory  interview  I  re- 
turned to  my  hotel,  and  occupied  the  remainder 
of  the  day  in  viewing  the  city.  Next  morning  I 
repeated  my  visit  to  the  lower  end  of  Broadway, 
which  is  about  one  mile  from  the  hotel,  first  call- 
ing at  the  steerage  office,  where  I  found  a  man 
evidently  possessing  a  good  degree  of  physical 
strength,  but  whose  time  was  so  much  occupied 
that  he  seemed  unable  to  speak  or  even  look  at 
any  one  visiting  the  office. 

After  waiting  fifteen  minutes  for  an  opportunity 
I  finally  ventured  to  inquire  if  Mr.  Francklyn 
was  in  ?  and  was  answered  in  an  uncouth,  gruff 
manner,  as  follows  :  .  _ 


A  SPAT  WITH   THE   CUNARD   AGENTS.  41 

"  Mr.  Francklyn  has  men  here  to  attend  to  his 
business." 

Said  I :  "  I  have  a  letter  of  introduction  to  Mr. 
Francklyn,  and  would  be  happy  to  see  the  gen- 
tleman." 

Said  he  :  "  You  can  not  see  him." 

I  then  inquired  :  "  Is  Mr.  Francklyn  a  man 
that  can  not  be  seen  ?  " 

To  which  he  replied :  "  I  don't  know  as  he  can 
be  seen." 

I  immediately  proceeded  with  a  quick  but  firm 
step  to  the  passenger  office.  A  new  man  is  in 
the  office  in  addition  to  the  dapper  fellow  of  the 
day  before.  This  new  man  must  have  been 
somewhat  higher  in  his  profession,  as  he  had  the 
happy  faculty  of  putting  it  far  beyond  the  power 
of  the  most  vivid  human  imagination  to  invent 
even  a  suspicion  of  what  the  result  of  an  inquiry 
from  him  would  be. 

Said  I  to  him  :  "  I  have  purchased  a  ticket 
from  your  agent  at  Fort  Wayne,  Indiana,  for  a 
first-cabin  passage  from  New  York  to  Paris 
and  return  via,  Liverpool  and  London,  on  the 
first  boat  that  sails  on  your  line,  and  it  is  made  a 
part  of  the  conditions,  as  well  as  my  duty,  that  I 
appear  at  this  office,  surrender  this  ticket  and 


42       NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

obtain  a  pass  and  assignment  of  berth  from  you. 
Are  you  authorized  to  transact  this  business?  " 

"  Let  me  see  your  ticket,"  said  he. 

I  handed  him  the  ticket  and  he  passed  out  of 
the  room,  leaving  me  to  meditate  something  over 
an  hour,  and  when  he  returned  he  replied: 

"  We  can  not  send  you  on  this  ticket." 

Not  feeling  in  the  very  best  of  humor,  after 
having  been  compelled  to  wait  in  suspense  long 
enough  for  a  boat  to  get  far  on  her  way  to  Liver- 
pool, this  very  direct  answer  to  my  question  had 
the  effect  to  increase  the  arterial  circulation  tend- 
ing toward  my  brain,  and  prompted  the  follow- 
ing rejoinder : 

"  Do  you  take  me  for  a  knave  ?  Do  you  think 
I  am  one  of  the  Kansas  murderers  or  some  moun- 
tebank, that  I  should  receive  such  treatment  ?  I 
purchased  this  ticket  from  your  agent  at  Fort 
Wayne,  Ind.,  in  good  faith  ;  at  his  request,  paid 
the  money  for  it,  all  he  required,  and  paid  more 
for  it  than  was  required  for  any  other  line,  and 
why  now  should  I  be  subjected  to  this  rebuff?  " 

Said  he,  "  I  will  send  you  to  Boston  to  sail  on 
the  China." 

I  informed  the  agent  that  I  had  come  "  to  em- 
bark at  New  York,  to  that  end  had  purchased 


A   SPAT  WITH   THE   CUNARD   AGENTS.  43 

my  ticket,  and  that  if  I  now  took  passage  on  their 
line  it  must  be  from  New  York." 

He  then  informed  me  that  the  "agent  at  Fort 
Wayne  had  no  authority  to  issue  any  such  ticket ; 
that  he  had  exceeded  his  bounds,  and  hence,  they 
were  under  no  obligations  to  pass  me  on  it;  but 
we  will  refund  your  money." 

I  informed  him  that  I  would  "  neither  go  to 
Boston  nor  accept  the  money;  that  I  had  acted  in 
good  faith,  had  came  there  to  embark,  and  if 
they  did  not  give  me  a  full  first-cabin  passage, 
without  interruption,  I  should  walk  over  to  the 
Guion  office,  purchase  a  similar  ticket  for  $150, 
and  for  my  interruption  and  delay,  attend  to  mjr 
interest  fully  on  my  return." 

Said  he,  "  I  do  not  fully  represent  Mr. 
Francklyn,  and  prefer  you  would  come  down 
to-morrow  morning,  and  if  Francklyn  is  not  in, 
there  will  be  a  man  here  who  will  fully  represent 
him?  " 

I  informed  the  agent  that  I  had  been  to  con- 
siderable trouble  which  they  had  made  for  me, 
and  that  if  they  wished  to  see  ipe  again,  unless 
they  did  now  grant  me  a  full  pass,  they  might 
call  at  my  room  at  the  hotel." 

He  then  desired  my  ticket,  and  I  informed  him 


44       NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

that  "  it  was  all  I  had  to  show  what  I  had  paid, 
and  shall  hold  on  to  it." 

Said  he,  "  I  will  pay  your  money  back." 
His  having  recognized  the  agent  at  Fort  Wayne 
and  his  authority  to  issue  it,  by  promising  to  send 
me  to  Boston  to  sail  on  the  China,  and  by  offer- 
ing to  refund  the  money,  convinced  me  that  if 
there  was  anything  wrong  it  was  not  my  fault, 
and  that  I  had  sufficient  grounds  to  compel  the 
company  to  carry  me  as  a  passenger,  according 
to  the  contract.  With  this  kind  of  solace  I  re- 
turned toward  my  hotel,  and  observing  a  lawyer's 
sign  not  far  from  the  new  Post-Office  building, 
stepped  into  the  office,  showed  him  my  ticket, 
and  asked  him  if  that  was  good  to  secure  a  pas- 
sage to  Paris  and  return.  He  informed  me  that 
it  was  a  good  contract  for  that  purpose.  After 
informing  him  that  the  Company's  agent  had  de- 
clined to  pass  me,  he  said  that  he  would  go  with 
me  to  him,  and  thought  that  a  few  words  from 
him  would  at  once  convince  the  agent  that  he 
must  pass  me.  Contrary,  therefore,  to  my  in- 
tentions, I  returned  with  the  lawyer,  who  ad- 
dressed the  important  functionary  -in  mild,  but 
persuasive  language,  thus : 


A   SPAT  WITH  THE  CUNARD  AGENTS.  45 

"  It  will  be  to  the  Company's  interest  to  pass 
Mr.  B ,  as  per  contract." 

The  agent,  with  the  gravity  of  a  bishop  and 
dignity  of  a  judge,  heard  the  lawyer  through,  I 
being  an  observer ;  and  then  with  the  expression  of 
a  military  commander-in-chief,  just  about  to  give 
command  to  march  into  battle,  remarked  :  "  When 
we  want  your  counsel  we  will  call  on  you." 

I  then  informed  the  attorney  that  we  would 
leave  them,  and  if  they  wanted  hereafter  to  see 
me,  I  had  given  directions  where  to  call.  The 
steamer  man  then  said  : 

"  If  you  will  call  here  to-morrow  morning  at 
nine  o'clock  there  will  be  a  man  in  who  fully 
represents  Mr.  Francklyn,  and,  perhaps,  he  will 
arrange  the  matter  satisfactorily." 

With  this  assurance,  and  some  suspense,  I  re- 
turned to  my  hotel,  to  reflect  that  ofttimes  inno- 
cence, if  no  claim  is  made  for  integrity,  is  but 
slightly  appreciated.  Saturday  morning  a  letter 
was  handed  me  from  Mr.  Laufferty,  informing 
me  of  the  fact  that  he  had  received  word  of  the 
trouble,  and  cautioning  me  "  to  stand  firm  and 
demand  my  rights  ;  that  he  had  sold  me  the  ticket 
in  good  faith,  that  \  had  paid  him  for  it,  and  he 
would  see  me  through  at  all  hazards." 


46       NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

On  the  receipt  of  this  letter  I  again  returned 
to  the  office  at  Bowling  Green,  and  met  a  new 
man,  who  informed  me  he  had  full  authority  to 
represent  Mr.  Francklyn.  He,  without  much 
hesitation,  gave  me  the  requisite  pass,  and  as- 
signed me  berth  144,  and  further  informed  me 
that  the  Russia  would  sail  on  the  Wednesday  fol- 
lowing. Thus  ended  an  altercation  that  seemed 
likely,  at  one  time,  to  cause  me  serious  difficulty, 
and  stamped  indelibly  on  the  writer's  mind  the 
fact,  that  there  could  be  no  landsmen  employed  by 
a  line  of  steamers,  whose  demeanor  was  scarcely 
in  accordance  with  the  well-known  and  excellent 
promptness  and  accommodations  of  the  steamers 
themselves.  This  affair  caused  Mr.  Laufferty  to 
resign  his  agency  at  Fort  Wayne. 


CHAPTER   III. 

NEW  YORK  CITY— CENTRAL  PARK — FIVE  POINTS 
— BROOKLYN  —  PLYMO  UTH  CHURCH  —  HENRY 
WARD   BEECHER. 

AFTER  our  "  spat "  with  the  agents,  as  ex- 
plained in  the  preceding  chapter,  I  began 
only  to  realize  the  fact  that  I  was  in  New  York 
City,  and,  as  a  native  American,  felt  proud  that 
there  was  such  a  metropolis  in  the  United  States. 
I  could  not  see  it  all,  and  what  I  did  see,  from  want 
of  time  and  space  can  not  be  described  here  in 
detail.  As  might  otherwise  have  been  expected, 
the  first  impression  was  not  the  best.  Being 
somewhat  fatigued  by  my  rapid  railway  journey, 
I  felt  that  information  as  to  when  the  steamer 
would  leave  port,  and  some  rest,  were  all  that  I 
should  require.  However,  invigorated  with  a 
night's  repose,  on  Friday  morning  I  took  an 
hour's  drive  through  Central  Park.  This  is  one 
of  the  most  attractive  points  for  strangers  visit- 
ing New  York,  especially  at  this  season  of  the 

(47) 


48  NOTES  OF  TRAVEL    IN    EUROPE. 

year,  when  business  has  somewhat  relaxed  its 
cares  and  activity.  I  will  not  attempt  to  give  a 
detailed  description  of  the  inclosure  within  the 
city  ;  but  will  say  that  it  contains  upwards  of 
eight  hundred  acres,  with  beautiful  roads,  walks, 
lawns,  small  lakes,  and  other  features — all  at  the 
cost  of  millions.  The  museum  there  will  alone 
pay  the  visitor  for  his  trouble.  A  very  interest- 
ing sight  was  the  swans  disporting  themselves 
on  the  lake.  I  did  not  have  the  privilege  of  see- 
ing one  dying  and  hear  its  "  last  sweet  song." 
Strict  order  is  preserved  within  the  park,  and 
the  most  unassuming  can  spend  days  therein 
without  annoyance.  I  will  not  vouch  for  that  in 
the  case  of  the  wholly  self-reliant.  Indeed,  I 
have  never  found  a  place  in  my  life  where  mod- 
esty was  more  highly  appreciated  than  in  New 
York.    . 

On  Saturday,  contrary  to  my  usual  custom,  I 
rested,  and,  on  Sunday,  it  was  my  pleasure  to 
hear  the  celebrated  Brooklyn  divine.  It  was  my 
intention  when  I  left  home  to  sail  from  New 
York  on  Saturday,  but  either  accident  or  Provi- 
dence delayed  the  boat  to  give  me  a  seat  in 
Plymouth  Church  and  a  view  of  its  renowned 
pastor.     Whatever  may  be  said  of  Mr.  Beecher, 


NEW   YORK    CITY  AND   BROOKLYN.  49 

one  thing  is  certain,  that  quite  contrary  to  the 
common  course  of  events,  when  men  have  been 
assailed  with  fierce  and  malicious  accusations,  he 
looks  well,  is  in  good  spirits,  and  still  the  most 
popular  preacher  in  Brooklyn.  This  may  be  at- 
tributed to  the  fact  that  his  noble  wife  clings  to 
him  with  a  devotion  unparalleled  amidst  the  thick- 
est of  the  storm.  After  service  we  joined  our 
friends,  Mr  J.  M.  Dobbs,  and  Mr.  McEnry,  a 
gentlemanly  telegraph  operator,  and  took  a  view 
of  the  new  telegraph  office,  which  was  then  well 
on  toward  completion.  To  say  that  it  is  a  re- 
markable building  would  convey  no  idea  of  its 
cost  or  magnitude.  The  part  to  be  occupied  by 
the  operators  alone  is  fifty  feet  above  the  pave- 
ment, and  the  whole  is  built  of  the  finest  stone 
and  brick,  at  a  cost  of  over  two  million  dollars. 
After  reaching  the  room  to  be  occupied  by  the 
large  force  of  operators,  I  declined  to  go  higher, 
on  account  of  a  little  unpleasant  feeling  in  my 
head,  and  were  pointed  to  the  upper  stories, 
which,  Mr.  McEnry  said,  tower  up  one  hundred 
feet  more. 

In  my  rambling  through  the  city  I  did  not  fail 
to  visit  the  Five  Points,  once  so  noted  abroad  as 
a  center  of  vice  and  uncleanness,  but  now  much 
3 


50       NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

modified  by  the  new  charity  buildings.  Just 
around  the  corner,  however,  up  Baxter  Street, 
much  of  the  old  condition  prevails.  Sunday 
afternoon,  with  my  esteemed  friend  and  cousin, 
Mr.  Dobbs,  walked  through  the  region.  Our  at- 
tention was  arrested  by  what  appeared  to  be  an 
unpleasant,  if  not  unhealthy,  odor ;  at  the  same 
time  my  friend,  looking  upward  and  around,  re- 
marked, "  There  is  Five  Points."  Having  read 
of  the  place  in  history,  and  seen  it  in  romance, 
my  eyes'  at  once  held  high  carnival.  In  the 
neighborhood  were  old  moss-covered,  dilapidated 
walls  ;  large  squads  of  men,  boys,  and  girls,  clad 
in  ragged  garments,  some  wild,  uncultivated,  ly- 
ing lazily  about ;  some  hooting  and  hallooing  ; 
all  combined  to  give  the  region  the  appearance 
of  the  abode  of  Tophet.  T  hardly  know  what 
Tophet  means,  but  use  the  word  to  express  my 
idea  of  hideousness.  Such  is  the  repulsiveness 
of  the  place,  that  there  can  be  but  little  vice  per- 
petrated here  only  by  the  inmates  themselves. 
Vice  to  allure  must  assume  a  more  refined  atti- 
tude. Here  I  could  only  behold  degradation  un- 
disguised. There  is  a  mystery  about  this  locality 
that  I  can  not  solve,  and  have  failed  to  find  any 
one  who  could  enlighten   me — it  is  this  :     Here 


NEW  YORK  CITY  AND  BROOKLYN.  $1 

are  old  dilapidated  frame  buildings  in  the  heart 
of  a  great  city,  that  bear  the  marks  of  having 
been  erected  early  in  the  history  of  Manhattan 
Island,  and  yet  there  they  stand  in  long  rows, 
in  the  midst  of  civilization  and  wealth,  appar- 
ently ready  to  drop  into  a  pile  of  mold.  If 
those  buildings  were  in  Plymouth,  the  first  flash 
of  lightning  would  set  them  on  fire  ;  or  if  in 
Chicago,  they  would  be  licked  up  by  the  bril- 
liant rays  of  a  noon-day's  sun.  I  do  not  see  why 
they  are  permitted  to  stand  there,  except  as 
monuments  of  God's  amazing  mercy,  or  to  show 
what  New  York  once  was  and  what  it  is  now. 
While  I  stood  gazing  around,  a  little  boy,  haggard 
and  pale,  emerged  apparently  from  a  sewer,  and 
was  accosted  by  two  little,  intelligent  girls,  from 
the  mission-house,  perhaps,  who  gave  him  words 
of  cheer,  and  invited  him  to  the  Sabbath-school. 
These  were  little  angels  of  mercy.  The  point 
which  once  contained  the  old  Brewery,  and 
which  rendered  the  region  so  notorious,  is  now 
the  sight  of  the  neat  Mission  buildings ;  a  monu- 
ment, I  presume,  to  show  that  whereas  once 
there  had  been  a  prolific  source  of  wickedness, 
now  it  dispenses  the  water  of  life. 

Monday,   November    16th,    I   ferried   over  to 


52  NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

Jersey  City  to  examine  the  steamship  Russia. 
She  is  a  little  less  than  four  hundred  feet  long, 
with  three  decks.  T  do  not  know  how  much  is 
under  sea,  but  the  water's  edge  touched  the  "  25  " 
point  on  the  stern,  which  indicates,  I  presume, 
that  many  feet.  She  carries  five  thousand  tons, 
and  is  said  to  be  the  finest  ship  in  the  line.  Up 
to  that  time  she  had  made  her  seventy-ninth  trip 
without  an  accident! 


CHAPTER  IV. 

NEW  YORK  TO  LIVERPOOL — LEAVING  THE  DOCKS 
AT  JERSEY  CITY  —  SCENES  ON  BOARD  —  THE 
FIRST  SUPPER—INCIDENTS  WHILE  CROSSING- 
PRESENTING  A  PURSE  TO  THE  CHIEF  STEWARD 
— STRANDED. 

THE  same  day,  Monday^  I  visited  the  Publish- 
ing-House of  S.  R.  Wells  &  Co.  Though 
immersed  in  business,  the  now  lamented  proprie- 
tor found  time  to  extend  the  common  courtesies. 
In  this  rushing  business  world  —  where  every- 
thing is  too  much  adjusted  to  selfish  interests — 
the  faculty  of  carrying  on  an  extensive  business, 
and  at  the  same  time  being  kind  to  visitors,  is  a 
virtue  that,  whenever  found,  should  be  highly 
commended.  Such  I  found  Mr.  Wells*  to  be, 
and  under  his  management,  assisted  by  his  most 

*  Before  the  publication  of  this  book,  S.  R.  Wells  died  much 
lamented,  especially  by  those  interested  in  the  science  he  nur- 
tured and  loved.  The  Journal  is  continued  under  the  manage- 
ment of  his  faithful  and  bereaved  wife. 

(53) 


NEW   YORK  TG   LIVERPOOL.  55 

on  board,  and  the  officers  and  crew  active  in 
their  preparations  for  pushing-  off  from  shore. 

While  I  was  pacing  the  hurricane-deck,  I  ran 
upon  a  gentleman,  Mr.  Allaire,  who  was  just  con- 
soling himself  that  when  he  reached  Liverpool, 
he  would  have  completed  a  trip  around  the 
world,  via,  India,  Japan,  China,  across  the  Pa- 
cific, and  the  continent  of  North  America  to 
New  York.  He  spoke  in  friendly  terms,  and  in- 
formed me  that  he  had  enjoyed  his  voyage  much, 
aside  from  a  little  scare  when  his  steamer  was 
driven  ashore  on  the  coast  of  Japan.  While  in 
conversation  with  this  gentleman,  another  ap- 
proached me,  who  from  his  uniform  I  took  to  be 
•  an  officer  of  the  ship,  who  said : 
1       "  Are  you  the  pilot?" 

The  difficulty  I  had  with  the  agents  being 
fresh  in  my  mind  at  Bowling  Green,  it  instantly 
occurred  to  me  that  he  was  intending  to  perpe- 
trate a  joke.     I  therefore  replied  to  him  : 

"  I  think  you  ought  to  know  your  own  men." 

Here  the  firing  of  a  cannon,  the  ringing  of  a  bell 
and  the  shrill  steam  whistle  drew  my  attention, 
and  I  observed  the  noble  ship  had  already  left  the 
shore.  There  was  waving  of  handkerchiefs  on 
board,  and  it  was  continued  until  the  ship  was 


56  NOTES  OF  TRAVEL   IN   EUROPE. 

plowing  down  the  bay  at  the  rate  of  twelve 
miles  an  hour.  Then  the  lady  passengers,^ who 
had  been  in  excellent  health  and  cheer,  with  an 
occasional  tear  trickling  down  their  cheeks,  pass- 
ed from  the  hurricane-deck  into  the  ladies'  cabinr 
and  I  saw  them  no  more  until  supper-time. 

Soon  the  Russia  was  under  full  headway,  mov- 
ing through  the  water,  followed  by  a  smaller 
boat,  from  which  there  is  a  continuous  cannonad- 
ing. Anxious  to  know  the  meaning  of  this  dem- 
onstration, I  made  inquiry  and  found  it  to  be  a 
salute  in  honor  of  the  chief  of  the  Irish  Rifle 
Team,  who  was  returning  from  the  late  Inter- 
national Shooting  Match.  Before  sunset  we 
rounded  Sandy  Hook,  and  it  was  scarcely  dark 
when  land  became  invisible  ;  we  were  u  out  on  the 
ocean  sailing/'  the  weather  delightful.  Soon  the 
passengers  were  called  to  eat  their  first  supper  on 
board.  There  was  a  well-filled  table,  and  the 
passengers  had  a  repast  before  them  which  kings 
might  envy.  This,  together  with  the  sprightly 
conversation,  made  up  a  jolly  company. 

To  my  left  sat  a  Mr.  Parker,  from  Porter 
County,  Indiana,  who  passed  a  glass  of  sherry  to 
me.  I  partook  of  a  small  quantity,  which  had 
the  effect  to  nauseate,  and  I  now  feel  as  though  I 


NEW   YORK  TO   LIVERPOOL.  57 

shall  never  want  another  glass  as  long*  as  I  live. 
To  me  sherry  and  salt  water  are  incompatibles. 

At  that  table  Russia,  France,  Spain,  Switzer- 
land, Buenos  Ayres,  England,  Ireland,  Scotland, 
Wales,  and  America  were  represented.  Blenner- 
hasset  Leach  is  the  Irishman ;  Kulakowski  is 
the  Russian.  There  are  also  on  board  the  presi- 
dent of  the  Canada  Grand  Trunk  Railroad  ;  two 
members  of  Parliament;  and  a  host  of  reputed 
millionaires  from  New  York,  among  whom  may 
be  mentioned  Mr.  Lawrence,  and  the  well-known 
Marshall  O.  Roberts.  One  thing  very  comfort- 
ing in  meeting  these  different  nationalities,  was, 
they  all  conversed  fluently  in  the  English  vernac- 
ular. 

In  the  course  of  the  evening  Kulakowski  gave 
me  a  better  knowledge  of  his  people  and  gov- 
ernment than  I  ever  had  from  history.  Such  as- 
sociations will  render  any  one  less  biased  and 
more  liberal;  at  least  they  produce  that  effect 
on  myself.  The  more  we  meet  with  a  respect- 
able representative  of  the  different  nations,  the 
less  prejudiced  we  become. 

Supper  ended,  the  company  enjoyed  the  re- 
mainder of  the  evening  in  agreeable  conversa- 
tion, and  speculations  as  to  the  probable  charac- 


58  NOTES   OF  TRAVEL  IN   EUROPE. 

ter  of  the  voyage,  and  then  retired,  little  think- 
ing that  would  be  the  last  time  all  should  appear 
at  the  table  on  board.  The  next  morning  I  awoke 
to  find  the  ship  rocking  very  much,  but,  as  I  had 
passed  round  the  lakes  in  a  storm  safely,  it  oc- 
curred to  me  that  the  Atlantic  did  not  appear 
more  dangerous  than  Lake  Michigan,  and  so  ex- 
pressed myself.  A  gentleman  from  New  York 
(Mr.  Rosenbaum)  said : 

"  I  am  astonished  that  you  should  presume 
such  a  thing.  This,"  said  he,  "  is  not  the  begin- 
ning of  what  we  must  pass  through." 

I  told  him  I  would  risk  it.  At  breakfast  a 
number  of  passengers  were  missing;  the  rough 
sea  producing  in  them  a  strong  dislike  for  nour- 
ishment. The  state-rooms  of  this  ship  being 
large  and  commodious,  passengers  are  not  re- 
quired to  appear  in  the  saloon  or  at  table  unless 
it  is  their  wish,  and  if  the  sea  is  rough  the  inex- 
perienced do  not  seem  much  inclined  to  do  so. 
Friday  morning  at  four  o'clock  I  heard  a 
crash  which  awoke  me.  I  found  the  ship  rolling 
in  such  a  disagreeable  manner  that  r  became 
somewhat  alarmed.  Supposing  a  heavy  sea  had 
fallen  upon  the  hurricane  deck  and  broken  into 
the  cabin,  and  that  soon  my  state-room  would  be 


NEW  YORK  TO   LIVERPOOL.  59 

invaded  with  water,  and  that,  we  were  going 
down,  incited  me  to  jump  up,  and  as  speedily  as 
possible  array  myself  for  an  appearance  near  the 
outlook.  On  first  touching  the  floor  of  my  room 
I  became  thoroughly  awakened,  for  something 
like  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  tacks  were  sticking 
into  the  bottom  of  my  feet.  These  were  a  part 
of  a  four-pound  paper  which  had  been  placed  by 
the  steward  over  the  transom  of  my  state-room 
door,  and  which  the  rolling  of  the  ship  had 
pitched  into  my  room  with  the  crash  that  awoke 
me.  Having  extracted  all  the  iron  from  my  feet, 
I  arranged  my  apparel  as  well  as  I  could  under 
the  circumstances,  and  groped  my  way  to  the 
hurricane-deck  in  the  dark.  On  reaching  the  top 
of  the  first  stairway,  and  passing  out  of  the  gang- 
way, a  sailor  happening  to  see  me,  cried  out: 
u  Who's  there  this  time  of  night  ?  " 
Another  sailor,  passing  by,  replied  :  "  It's 
some  fellow  hunting  for  land." 

Now,  for  the  first  time  in  my  life,  I  beheld  the 
Atlantic  mad.  For  the  first  time  I  had  a  full  ap- 
preciation of  the  Euroclydon  spoken  of  by  Saint 
Paul.  Having  gratified  sublimity  with  the  ter- 
rors of  the  sight,  I  returned  to  my  state-room  to 
rest  until  daylight 


60       NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

In  the  morning",  before  breakfast,  I  stepped  out- 
side the  barricade  to  get  some  sea-water,  never 
having  tasted  any.  Finding  it  contained  as  much 
salt,  potash,  soda,  etc.,  as  it  seemed  possible  for 
water  to  hold  in  solution,  I  was  quite  satisfied  to 
return  into  the  gangway.  Putting  my  hands  on 
the  barricade,  which  is  about  four  feet  high,  and 
at  the  same  moment  jumped,  when  a  heavy  sea 
struck  the  starboard.  The  ship  careened  to  an  an- 
gle of  full  4$  degrees,  and  the  shock,  together  with 
the  momentum  given  by  the  jump,  caused  me  to 
fall  through  the  gangway,  a  distance  of  25  feet, 
knocking  one  man  down,  nearly  breaking  an- 
other's leg,  and  might  have  broken  my  own  neck 
had  I  not  put  out  my  left  hand  to  break  the  force 
as  the  opposite  side  was  reached.  I  gathered 
myself  up  and  proceeded  to  take  breakfast  as 
though  nothing  had  occurred. 

Shortly  after  breakfast  my  wrist  became  so 
painful,  that  I  was  compelled  to  consult  the  ship's 
physician,  who  was  in  every  way  a  gentleman. 
He  informed  me  that  the  wrist  was  pretty  well 
jammed  up,  and  that  it  would  be  necessary  for 
me  to  go  to  my  state-room  and  use  ice  water  on 
it  freely,  until  the  inflammation  and  pain  had  sub- 
sided.    I  followed  his  advice,  but  it  was  not  until 


NEW  YORK  TO   LIVERPOOL.  6l 

the  next  day  at  12  o'clock  that  the  pain  fairly 
ceased,  but  the  wrist  remained  painful,  and  I  paid 
dearly  for  my  experiment  with  the  sea.  I  carried 
my  arm  in  a  sling  for  a  while,  and  moved  on  the 
ship  more  cautiously,  being  unfit  for  any  further 
gymnastic  feats.  The  next  six  days  were  passed 
in  reading,  conversation,  ascertaining  the  latitude 
and  longitude,  and  eating  and  drinking,  all  of 
which  opportunities  were  well  improved.  Wed- 
nesday, the  25th,  while  in  the  smoke  room,  a  con- 
versation incidently  arose  between  myself  and  a 
gentleman,  who  appeared  to  me  to  be  an  English 
commoner,  that  began  to  attract  some  attention. 

It  began  thus :  I  was  asked  why  I  was  visit- 
ing England,  and  what  I  thought  of  the  country, 
and  replied,  that  I  thought  I  should  like  the  coun- 
try, but  never  could  subscribe  wholly  to  the  sys- 
tem of  government  and  laws. 

"Why,"  said  the  inquirer,  "our  laws  are  as 
good  as  yours." 

I  remarked  that  we  had  retained  the  spirit  or 
about  all  that  was  good  of  the  English  laws  ;  and 
had  eliminated  most  of  the  objectionable  features. 

Said  he,  rather  gruffly :  "  You  do  not  know 
anything  about  the  English  laws." 

I  remarked,  with  some  degree  of  confidence, 


62       NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

that  "  I  did  not  arrogate  to  myself  the  legal  eru- 
dition of  a  Blackstone,  or  the  ability  to  under- 
stand all  the  English  statutes  in  detail,  but  did 
presume  that  I  was  as  well  versed  in  the  spirit 
of  the  English  law  as  he  was  himself." 

By  this  last  remark,  I  aroused  the  ire  of  nine 
or  ten  stalwart  Englishmen,  who  were  at  my 
back.  One,  apparently  highly  cultured,  sprung 
to  his  feet  and  avowed  that  he  was  a  Tory  and 
that  he  gloried  in  his  principles.  I  disposed  of 
him  by  telling  him  that  was  the  class  of  men 
Americans  used  to  whip. 

The  gentleman  who  had  commenced  the  con- 
versation, then  asked  me  .  to  give  one  instance 
where  the  practical  workings  of  the  United 
States  Government  gave  one  more  guarantee  of 
liberty  to  the'  people  than  the  English  Govern- 
ment ?  I  referred  him  to  the  fact  that  the  British 
Parliament  assumed  to  itself  the  right  to  reject 
members  elected,  whether  by  the  will  of  the  peo- 
ple or  not ;  and  that  if  the  people  elected  a  man 
to  the  lower  house  of  Congress,  that  body  was 
bound  to  admit  him  to  a  seat,  if  otherwise  eligi- 
ble ;  however  distasteful  he  might  be  to  the  domi- 
nant party.  I  then  gave  him  the  example  of 
the  illustrious  Henry  Vane,  who  was  three  times 


NEW   YORK  TO   LIVERPOOL.  63 

elected  by  the  people  to  Parliament,  and  as  often 
refused  a  seat.  Perhaps  the  conversation  would 
have  become  irregular,  and  the  situation  embar- 
rassing, had  not  the  bell  rang  for  tea. 

On  the  following  morning,  while  on  the  hurri- 
cane deck,  my  English  friend  was  introduced  to 
me  as  the  Hon.  W.  P.  Chad  wick,  a  member  of 
Parliament  from  Manchester.  On  attempting  an 
apology  for  the  abrupt  manner  of  my  address 
the  day  before,  he  refused  to  accept  any,  and 
said,  "  I  love  to  see  a  man  express  himself  frankly 
and  emphatically  on  all  political  questions."  He 
further  stated  :  "  When  you  arrive  at  London  you 
must  be  sure  to  call  on  me,  at  No.  68  Moorgate 
Street,  and  if  you  remain  over  until  February, 
I  will  take  pleasure  in  showing  you  through  the 
English  Parliament  and  introduce  you  to  the 
dignitaries  of  the  realm."  The  reader  will,  no 
doubt,  readily  perceive  how  reluctantly  a  person 
could  accept  such  compliments  from  one  who 
the  day  before  was  regarded  only  as  a  private 
citizen  of  England,  and  who  now  stood  before 
us  a  marked  representative  of  a  great  manufac- 
turing district  of  Great  Britain. 

At  four  o'clock  in  the  evening  Mr.  Parker 
informed   me   that   it   was   the   intention  of  the 


64       NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

passengers  that  evening  to  make  a  presenta- 
tion of  a  purse  to  the  chief  steward,  and  that 
it  was  appointed  to  meet  at  what  is  known  on 
board  as  the  smoking-room,  precisely  at  eight 
o'clock.  Not  having  put  in  an  appearance  at 
that  hour,  a  committee  of  two  appeared  and  re- 
minded me  of  the  appointment,  and,  at  the  same 
time,  informed  me  that  it  was  necessary  that  I 
should  form  one  of  the  company.  Not  knowing 
the  object  of  the  meeting  further  than  to  make 
the  presentation,  I  accompanied  the  committee, 
and  found  present  Captain  Cook,  of  the  Russia, 
the  sailors,  steward,  and  officers  of  the  ship  in 
uniform,  and  the  principal  portion  of  the  passen- 
gers, among  whom  were  Mr.  D.  P.  Chad  wick 
and  Mr.  John  Crossley,  members  of  Parliament, 
among  whom  I  modestly  took  my  seat  awaiting 
the  further  action  of  the  assembly.  To  my  as- 
tonishment it  was  unanimously  voted  that  I 
should  make  the  presentation  with  suitable  re- 
marks. About  this  time  a  thought  of  Rip  Van 
Winkle  when  he  met  the  demons  of  the  Catskill 
recurred  to  me,  and  wishin  $  to  appear  as  brave 
as  possible  under  the  emergency,  I  arose  and 
said  :  "  Mr.  Chairman,  officers,  crew,  and  pas- 
sengers of  the  Royal  Mail  Steamship  Russia  :  I 


NEW  YORK  TO   LIVERPOOL.  65 

observe  in  this  assembly  learned  men  and  gen- 
tlemen of  ability,  representing  many  different 
nationalities,  and  among  that  number  two 
members  of  the  British  Parliament,  and,  it 
seems  to  me,  more  befitting  on  this  occasion 
that  one  of  those  distinguished  individuals  should 
perform  the  part  assigned  me  this  evening,"  and 
took  my  seat. 

Being  again  unanimously  called,  I  arose,  when 
the  purse  with  ten  guineas  was  handed  to  me, 
and,  for  want  of  anything  efcse  to  say,  delivered 
the  following  brief  address : 

"  To  be  President  of  the  United  States  is  to 
have  reached  the  highest  point  of  an  American's 
ambition.  The  emperor's  crown  satisfies  the 
most  ambitious  Frenchman ;  and  no  English- 
man expects  to  rise  higher  than  to  have  the 
gilded  coronet  of  Queen  Victoria  fall  on  his 
brow.  Yet-  to  have  attained  the  position  of 
chief  steward  upon  the  great  steamship  Russia, 
is  to  have  climbed  next  to  the  highest  round  on 
the  ladder  of  nautical  fame.  To  you,  who  have 
so  faithfully  performed  your  duty  as  such  officer, 
in  behalf  of  these  passengers  and  officers  of  the 
ship,  I  present  you  with  this  purse,  containing  ten 
sovereigns.     Please  accept  the  same  as  a  small 


66  NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

token  of  their  regard  for  your  high  and  generous 
nature,  and  for  the  promptness  and  cheerfulness 
with  which  the  duties  of  your  office  were  per- 
formed. We  are  now  nearing  port,  and  will  soon 
be  called  upon  to  separate,  but  shall  always  re- 
member with  pride  your  kind  offices,  and  shall 
cheerfully  praise  the  men  who  guided  the  ship 
safely  over.  The  Russia  will  soon  be  safe  in 
port ;  but  we  may  now  separate  never  to  meet 
on  earth.  Let  our  transient  friendship  and  our 
safe  landing  remind  us  of  the  old  ship  which  is 
to  carry  us  safely  over  the  River  of  Death,  to 
meet  on  the  other  shore,  to  cultivate  an  everlast- 
ing friendship  never  to  be  broken,  and  where  sep- 
arations do  not  occur." 

A  brief  silence,  and  the  company  returned  to 
their  respective  stations,  and  I  did  not  see  them 
again  until  next  morning  on  the  upper  deck 
viewing  the  south-western  coast  of  Ireland. 

Ireland  was  now  in  view,  and  a  host  of  men 
were  on  the  out-look,  playing  Christopher  Co- 
lumbus. 

It  is  not  a  disagreeable  thing  to  behold  a  strip 
of  solid  ground  after  having  been  tossed  five  or 
six  days  in  succession  on  the  angry  waves  of  the 
ocean. 


NEW   YORK  TO   LIVERPOOL. 


67 


At  noon  we  were  in  Cork  Harbor,  unloading 
the  Eastern  mails.  At  six  o'clock  a.m.  of  Satur- 
day, the  28th  of  November,  we  found  ourselves 
on  the  bar  in  the  mouth  of  Mersey  River,  unable 
to  proceed  further  until  the  tide  came. 


CHAPTER  V. 

LANDING     AT     LIVERPOOL — AT     THE      STATION — 
THE    RAILROADS— CARS — LONDON. 

"  There's  a  land  that  bears  a  world-known  name, 
Though  it  is  but  a  little  spot ; 
'Tis  the  star  of  the  earth,  deny  it  who  can, 
The  island  home  of  an  Englishman." 

ON  the  morning  of  the  28th  of  November, 
1874,  we  awoke  to  find  ourselves  on  the 
bar  in  the  Mersey.  Here  our  ship  anchored, 
awaiting  the  convenience  of  the  friendly  tide  to 
help  us  over.  This  bar  is  twenty  miles  south 
of  Liverpool,  and  we  were  compelled  to  remain 
here  three  hours — which  time  was  spent  in  con- 
versation, smoking,  and  watching  the  fishermen 
on  their  small  crafts  catching  soles.  A  half  sole 
is  a  handsome  meal  for  any  one.  At  precisely 
twelve  o'clock  M.  the  tide,  true  to  its  instinct, 
lifted  us  over ;  and  at  two  o'clock  P.M.  we  again 
anchored  at  a  point  in  the  river,  with  Birkenhead 
at  our  left  and  Liverpool  to  the  right.  At  this 
point  there  was  a  general  arranging  of  trunks 
and  baggage  for  the  inspection  of  the  Custom- 

(68) 


LIVERPOOL  TO  LONDON.  69 

bouse  officer,  who  was  now  on  board.  Under 
such  circumstances  passengers  became  extremely 
selfish,  every  one  watching  his  own  "  luggage," 
(we  use  this  term  to  describe  all  kinds  of  baggage, 
because  here  the  people  would  not  understand 
what  was  meant  by  any  other),  to  get  it  passed 
as  soon  as  possible.  Knowing,  of  course,  that  I 
had  nothing  "  contraband,"  I  had  my  trunk  and 
valise  opened  in  readiness  for  the  officer.  On  the 
first  opportunity  I  button-holed  him,  and  he  see- 
ing that  I  had  everything  open  for  inspection, 
without  further  inquiry  put  his  stamp  upon  the 
trunk  and  valise,  and  they  were  soon  upon  the 
tender,  among  the  very  first  to  be  taken  to  the 
wharf.  Shortly  after  an  English  gentleman 
whispered  in  the  ear  of  the  officer  these  words : 
"  I  am  a  member  of  Parliament."  It  is  needless 
to  say  his  trunks  were  all  ransacked  from  top  to 
bottom.  I  regarded  this  as  highly  compliment- 
ary to  America. 

Soon  the  luggage,  together  with  the  owners, 
were  on  board  the  tender,  to  be  carried  to  the 
docks.  This  short  interval  was  taken  up  in  fare- 
wells and  blessings.  We  had  also  the  honor  of 
an  invitation  from  the  member  from  Manchester 
to  visits  both  Houses  of  Parliament,  and  were 


70  NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE* 

promised  an  introduction  to  the  English  digni- 
taries. For  this  we  thanked  him,  and  would 
gladly  have  accepted  but  for  the  fact  that  our 
time  would  not  permit  us  to  wait  till  February 
for  Parliament  to  convene. 

As  we  were  stepping  ashore,  a  young  lawyer, 
who  delighted  in  his  Tory  proclivities,  remarked 
to  me :  "  Whenever  you  hear  the  British  lion 
roar,  take  off  your  hat." 

Bowing  to  him,  I  replied  :  "  When  you  notice 
the  American  eagle  scream,  pull  off  your  boots." 

We  did  not  use  the  language  because  we 
thought  it  witty,  but  because  it  was  the  first  that 
came  to  mind,  and  we  are  writing  just  what  oc- 
curred. 

The  next  thing  was  to  secure  a  cab  to  take  our 
baggage  and  self  to  Lime  Street  Station.  To 
find  one  we  had  to  go  outside  of  the  docks,  as  no 
hackman  is  permitted  to  come  in.  The  next  in 
order  was  to  hire  a  porter  to  carry  our  baggage 
out ;  but  as  our  trunk  was  the  first  put  on  the 
tender,  it  would,  of  course,  be  the  last  one  to 
be  taken  out.  Finding  that  it  would  make  me 
late  to  remain,  and  as  the  ship  company  was 
bound  to  deliver  the  trunks,  started  for  the  ste- 
tion^  and  soon  afterward  had  the  pleasure  of  see- 


LIVERPOOL  TO  LONDON.  7 1 

ing  my  trunk  on  the  platform,  and  immediately 
after  a  very  polite  porter  stepped  up  and  de- 
manded two  shillings. 

Said  I  :  "  For  what?" 

Said  he  :  "  For  bringing  your  trunk  from  the 
docks.M 

"  But,"  said  I,  "  the  ship  company  is  bound  to 
deliver  that  trunk  at  the  station  without  charge." 

To  get  rid  of  the  unscrupulous  swindler  I  paid 
him,  and  then  hired  a  decent  porter  to  put  my 
trunk  on  the  cars,  and  soon  was  aboard  myself 
for  London. 

A  person  accustomed  to  travel  in  America 
will  be  much  surprised  on  his  first  arrival  in 
England.  The  railroads,  as  a  general  rule,  are 
more  permanent  structures  than  ours.  The 
beds  are  Very  complete,  the  rails  of  steel,  and 
on  most  roads  the  track  is  double.  The  mo- 
tion of  the  trains  is  swifter,  running  from  forty 
to  seventy  miles  an  hour.  While  we  admit  En- 
gland and  France  are  ahead  for  road-beds,  we 
feel  proud  of  American  railroad  cars.  The  first 
introduction  of  an  American  to  an  English  car, 
reminds  him  at  once  of  an  old  stage-coach.  In- 
deed, the  cars  in  England  are  called  coaches, 
and  are  constructed  with  four  wheels;  and  two 


72       NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

apartments  in  each  coach,  with  capacity  for  six 
passengers  in  each  apartment. 

Having  got  aboard  of  a  first-class  coach 
(would  not  have  done  so  had  not  the  ticket 
called  for  such  a  seat,  and  desiring  to  obtain  all 
advantages  to  be  derived  therefrom),  we  were 
soon  on  our  way  to  London.  The  inside  of  the 
coach  was  upholstered  in  the  finest  coach  style, 
and  contained  two  seats,  one  back  and  one  front, 
each  sufficient  to  accommodate  three  passengers 
who  sit  facing  each  other.  There  is  no  fire  in  the 
coaches  ;  hence,  in  cold  weather,  travelers  in  Eu- 
rope must  furnish  themselves  with  rugs,  wrap- 
pers, and  over-shoes  at  their  own  expense.  As 
soon  as  the  passengers  are  aboard,  the  coach  is 
locked  up — to  remain  so  for  the  journey,  which, 
from  Liverpool  to  London,  is  two  hundred  and 
fifty-seven  miles.  Just  at  this  point  I  was  de- 
lighted to  find  that  I  had  for  my  traveling  com- 
panions Mr.  Polak,  of  Piccadilly,  London,  and 
Marshall  O.  Roberts,  the  gentlemanly  millionaire 
from  New  York,  and  two  strangers.  Messrs. 
Polak  and  Roberts  had  sailed  on  the  Russia.  As 
I  was  continually  getting  out  of  my  element  on 
the  trip,  I  could  not  but  feel  highly  honored  that 


LIVERPOOL  TO   LONDON.  73 

my  fate  now  was  cast  with  such  distinguished 
company. 

We  were  soon  on  the  move  for  London,  and  as 
the  trip  had  to  be  made  in  five  hours,  I  had  no 
idea  that  either  of  us  would  reach  that  point 
with  a  sound  limb.  The  coaches  flew,  and  when 
passing  .over  a  curve  it  reminded  me  of  the  old 
game  of  whip-cracker  when  I  was  on  the  tail-end 
of  the  line.  There  was  a  terrible  sensation  of 
dizziness  and  a  disposition  to  swing  around  with- 
out your  own  consent.  The  diaphragm  and  ab- 
dominal muscles  perform  a  very  important  part 
on  such  an  occasion,  and  with  me  the  contraction 
was  more  than  usual ;  which,  no  doubt,  contrib- 
uted much  in  preventing  a  collapse.  As  I  never 
faint  on  any  occasion,  I  presume  that  it  was  col- 
lapse troubling  me.  Well,  three  hours  or  more 
were  passed  in  conversation  with  my  distin- 
guished company,  when  a  rumbling  noise,  and  a 
decrease  of  momentum  indicated  that  something 
was  wrong.  As  there  is  no  conductor  aboard, 
nor  any  one  else  to  give  any  information,  my 
nervous  energies  caused  me  to  look  around  for 
information.  You  know  "drowning  men  will 
catch  at  straws,"  and,  observing  the  following 
card  :  "  Be  it  enacted  by  the  Parliament  of  Her 
4 


74       NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

Majesty's  Government,  the  Government  of  Great 
Britain,  etc.  If  any  accident  should  happen  to 
this  car  while  running,  the  passenger  is  authorized 
to  slide  the  window  down,  reach  out,  and  under 
the  eave  of  the  right-hand  side  of  the  car,  he  will 
find  a  rope,  which,  by  giving  it  a  pull,  communi- 
cates with  the  engineer  on  the  engine."  This 
information  was  encouraging  indeed,  but  as  I 
read  further  on  I  found  this  language :  "Any  one 
pulling  the  rope  without  just  cause  of  alarm, 
shall  be  fined  forty  shillings,  and  imprisoned  for 
six  months."  I  did  not  pull  the  rope,  remarking 
to  Mr.  Roberts  that  I  would  as  lief  be  wrecked 
on  a  train  as  to  be  thrust  into  an  English  prison. 
The  train  stopped  for  one  hour.  We  learned 
afterward  that  a  freight  train  had  been  wrecked 
a  short  distance  ahead ;  and  we  were  only  com- 
pelled to  remain  until  the  rubbish  was  removed. 
During  our  delay,  it  flashed  through  my  mind 
that  a  great  deal  of  order  is  preserved  in  En- 
gland, through  the  terrors  of  the  law  ;  and  while  I 
confess  I  am  unwilling,  as  a  general  rule,  to  be 
frightened  into  obedience,  it  seemed  to  have  the 
desired  effect  this  time.  But  it  is  not  rare  to  sub- 
mit to  impositions  abroad  that  would  make  mar- 
tyrs of  us  at  home,  and  we  thought, "  so  goes  the 
world."     An  hour  or  more,  the  track  was  cleared 


LIVERPOOL  TO  LONDON.  75 

and  we  were  again  on  our  way  at  the  rate  of  sev- 
enty miles  an  hour,  to  make  up  for  lost  time. 
Roberts  and  Polak  both  agreed  that  my  nervous- 
ness was  useless — and  they  almpst  convinced  me 
that  fretting-  about  what  we  can  not  help  is  one 
of  the  most  inexcusable,  if  not  foolish  habits  any 
one  could  practice.  At  precisely  11  o'clock  P.M. 
we  reached  London,  just  six  hours  after  we  left 
Liverpool.  When  we  first  stepped  upon  the 
platform,  at  Charing-Cross  station,  in  the  great 
commercial  and  financial  city,  as  well  as  the  great 
metropolis  of  the  world,  language  is  inadequate 
to  describe  my  feelings.  None  but  those  who 
have,  for  the  first  time,  set  their  foot  on  the  same 
platform  can  appreciate  the  situation.  I  forgot 
where  to  find  my  baggage,  and  would  have  abso- 
lutely failed  to  get  away  from  the  station  had  not 
a  friendly  porter  stepped  up  and  kindly  proffered 
his  assistance  to  get  me  a  cab.  Having  given 
him  one  shilling,  the  accustomed  fee,  was  soon 
taken  to  Nelson's  Hotel,  in  Great  Portland  Street. 
I  scarcely  know  how  I  got  there,  where,  after  a 
supper  served  in  English,  but  grand  style,  I  re- 
tired to  rest,  for  the  first  time  in  the  great  city, 
but  not  without  first  thinking  what  a  host  of 
friends  we  could  have  in  the  world  if  we  had  an 
inexhaustible  supply  of  money. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

A  STROLL  IN   LONDON,    BILLINGSGATE,   ETC. 

AN  American  who,  for  the  first  time,  wakes 
up  and  finds  himself  in  London,  may  have 
something  of  the  same  sensation  that  Rip  Van 
Winkle  had  on  his  return  from  the  Catskill  mount- 
ains, after  his  twenty  years'  nap.  He  will  look 
around,  somewhat  amazed,  and  have  but  little  to 
say.  Such  was  my  experience  on  Sunday  morn- 
ing, the  29th  of  November,  as  I  took  a  short 
walk  in  the  great  city.  Having  taken  a  few  snif- 
fles of  the  foggy  atmosphere,  I  returned  to  my 
room,  at  Nelson's,  to  spend  the  day  in  reading, 
writing,  etc.  Monday  morning,  the  30th  of  No- 
vember, A.D.  1874,  that  being  the  last  day  of  the 
month,  I  again  arose  to  find  myself  in  a  similar 
situation,  only  that  the  monotony  was  broken  by 
a  dismal  rain,  which  continued  the  greater  por- 
tion of  the  time  during  my  stay.  It  is,  perhaps, 
expected  that  most  persons,  at  least,  who  visit 

England   for   pleasure,  or  otherwise,  will    have 
(76) 


A   STROLL   IN   LONDON.  JJ 

something  to  say  of  its  capital,  or  be  placed 
among  the  unobserving.  To  escape  the  frowns 
of  a  community  ;  made  indignant  by  continued 
silence,  I  too,  like  some  others,  who,  for  the  first 
time,  visited  a  strange  city,  have  an  itching  desire 
to  open  the  vials  of  the  mind  and  pour  out  a  few 
ideas,  as  I  gathered  them. 

London  is  the  largest  and  most  densely  popu- 
lated city,  as  well  as  the  u  political,  moral,  physi- 
cal, literary,  commercial,  and  social  center  of  the 
world."  It  has  been  said,  with  some  degree  of 
truth,  that,  in  these  days,  a  visit  to  London  is 
almost  a  necessity.  The  writer  thought  so,  or  he 
would  not  have  gone.  It  was  necessary  that  the 
first  cable  dispatch  should  reach  Plymouth,  and 
that,  to  this  end,  it  was  a  necessity  that  some  one 
should  cross  the  Atlantic  to  send  it.  The  site 
upon  which  London  stands  is  very  level,  and 
covers  one  hundred  and  twenty-two  square  miles, 
and  is  cut  in  two  unequal  halves  by  the  Thames 
River.  The  population,  at  the  present  time, 
which  we  ascertained  from  "Routledge's  Guide 
Book,"  is  four  millions — a  very  considerable  in- 
crease over  that  of  1861,  when  it  numbered  less 
than  three  millions.  In  1801  the  city  numbered 
less  than  one  million,  and  in  1701,  on  the  acces- 


78  NOTES  OF  TRAVEL    IN    EUROPE. 

sion  of  James  the  First,  the  city  contained  one 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand,  or  enough  to  make  a 
respectable  country  town.  This  shows  the  rapid 
growth  of  this  historical  city.  For  nearly  2,000 
years  London  was  less  than  an  average  town.  It 
has  grown  in  the  last  200  years  to  its  present 
population.  I  happened  to  be  there  in  a  foggy 
time,  and  can  from  experience  say,  that  the  damp 
atmosphere  has  not  the  ill  effect  on  the  health 
that  many  who  have  not  visited  the  city  imagine. 
Statistics  show  that  2,000  are  born  every  week  in 
the  city,  and  1,500  die  in  the  same  length  of  time. 
The  average  mortality  is  one  in  fifty  annually. 
The  average  of  human  life  being  33  years,  places 
London  over  one-half  per  cent,  above  the  aver- 
age. In  the  fog,  many  of  the  citizens  wear  filter- 
ers  over  their  mouths  and  noses — how  much  pro- 
tection this  is  I  can  not  say ;  I  kept  my  facial  ori- 
fices unbandaged,  and  had  the  satisfaction  of 
leaving  the  city  with  as  sound  lungs  and  as  good 
health  as  when  I  first  put  foot  upon  the  ancient 
thoroughfares.  The  dense  smoke  produced  by 
so  many  fires,  mixed  with  fine  cinders,  emanating 
from  the  numberless  manufactories  and  coal  fires, 
added  to  the  dampness  and  fog,  is  what  contrib- 
utes to  annoy  sojourners.      Yet,   notwithstand- 


A  STROLL  IN   LONDON.  79 

ing  all  this,  the  climate  is  quite  salubrious  and 
temperate ;  mercury  at  no  time  falling  to  zero, 
or  rising  to  900  Fahrenheit.  Having  secured  a 
map  for  a  guide  we  found  the  city  very  irregu- 
larly laid  out,  with  regard  to  the  points  of  the 
compass.  Hence,  to  a  stranger  it  would  appear 
impossible  to  travel  any  distance  through  the 
meandering  lanes,  avenues,  rows,  and  streets, 
without  getting  lost.  The  traveler  in  London, 
be  he  citizen  or  stranger,  soon  finds  that  there 
are  several  streets  which  form  grand  trunks. 
Oxford  Street,  with  its  extensions,  forms  the  prin- 
cipal road  through  the  city,  from  east  to  west. 
Having  learned  this  fact,  without  further  guide, 
I  took  a  walk  through  a  few  of  the  principal 
streets,  and  some  of  the  by-ways  of  the  city. 
Most  of  the  streets  and  lanes  are  like  a  serpent's 
trail.  None  of  them,  except  Regent  Street,  are 
over  sixty-six  feet  wide,  and  many  of  them  not 
exceeding  12  feet  wide.  There  is  one  feature 
about  the  streets  worthy  of  note  ;  however  nar- 
row and  crooked,  they  are  paved  in  the  most  ele- 
gant manner,  with  stone  that  seems  capable  of 
lasting  for  ten  generations  or  more  without  re- 
pair. Oxford  Street  as  it  winds  its  way  through 
the  mass  of  buildings,  over  20  miles,  reminds  one 


80       NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

of  a  common  wagon  road,  winding  through  a 
western  forest.  Indeed,  as  I  passed  down  old 
Drury  Lane  into  Oxford  Street,  it  required  but 
little  effort  to  carry  the  imagination  back  2,000 
years,  when  old  Oxford  Street  was  a  common 
wagon  road,  and  Drury  Lane  a  private  way  to  a 
farm-house.  A  map  of  London  has  something 
the  appearance  of  a  clay  hill,  after  a  heavy  rain. 
The  gullies  formed  by  the  washing  represent 
the  streets,  alleys,  and  lanes,  and  the  space  be- 
tween represents  the  blocks.  The  buildings  are 
densely  packed,  and  though  built  of  brick  and 
stone,  and  durable,  if  we  except  the  cathedral, 
churches,  and  some  public  buildings,  are  inferior 
to  those  in  some  of  our  American  cities,  as  to 
proportion  and  finish.  At  least  I  saw  no  private 
building  that  would  equal  in  magnitude  and 
beauty,  the  new  telegraph  office  in  New  York, 
or  the  Palmer  House  in  Chicago.  Among  the 
store  buildings  there  are  none  that  would  excel 
that  of  A.  T.  Stewart  &  Co.,  of  New  York,  or 
that  of  Field,  Leiter  &  Co.,  of  Chicago.  There 
is  one  thing  remarkable  in  all  the  shops  and 
stores,  on  the  principal  thoroughfares  of  London  : 
for  order  and  neatness,  and  show  of  the  choicest 
goods  and  wares  to  the  best  advantage,  they  are 


A   STROLL   IN   LONDON.  8 1 

unrivaled.  The  retail  dry-goods  stores  and  the 
shops  are  all  fancy  bazars,  and  the  jewelry  stores 
are  palaces.  This  we  attribute  to  the  fact  that 
all  the  retail  stores  are  kept  in  order  by  female 
assistants,  and  ladies  having  higher  order  than 
men,  may  account  for  this  superiority.  The 
Seven  Dials,  which  has  heretofore  been  noted  for 
dilapidated  buildings,  the  habitations  of  roughs, 
and  all  kinds  of  thieves,  have  been  rebuilt,  and 
is  now  a  very  respectable  portion,  if  not  the  best 
part  of  the  city. 

Billingsgate  is  a  gate,  wharf,  and  fish  market, 
just  below  London  bridge.  This  was  opened  in 
the  year  1558,  as  a  landing  for  provisions,  and  in 
1669  was  made  a  free  and  open  market  for  fish  of 
all  sorts.  It  is  the  only  wholesale  fish  market  in 
London.  Arriving  here  accidentally,  had  I  not 
been  told  that  I  was  in  Billingsgate,  I  would  have 
imagined  that  this  was  a  fair,  at  which  all  the 
fishmongers  of  the  world  were  represented.  The 
unpolished  phraseology,  native,  though  not  pecul- 
iar to  this  part  of  London,  has  given  rise  to  the 
proverbial  use  of  the  word.  The  odor  is  not  at 
all  agreeable  at  Billingsgate,  if  it  is  a  healthy  part 
of  the  city.  The  citizens  of  London,  as  a  rule, 
are  intelligent  and  industrious.  The  line  of  dis- 
4* 


82       NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

tinction,  however,  between  landlord  and  tenant, 
the  property-holder  and  the  laborer,  is  too  sharp- 
ly drawn  to  impress  an  American  favorably. 
Hired  girls  wear  a  badge  of  servitude,  and  I  am 
told  are  all  compelled  to  do  so  while  on  duty. 
Despite  the  peculiarities  of  climate,  atmosphere, 
government,  and  social  order,  London  is  a  cheer- 
ful place.  On  the  Monday  evening  after  arriving 
I  stepped  into  a  telegraph  office,  and  found  it  in 
charge  of  two  young  ladies.  I  remarked  that  it 
added  to  the  cheerfulness  of  the  city  to  have  the 
shops  and  many  of  the  private  offices  filled  with 
ladies.  This  seemed  to  meet  their  approbation 
and  drew  from  them  the  inquiry  why  we  did  not 
adopt  a  similar  method  ?  Whereupon  I  said  that 
Americans  treated  their  women  better.  They 
did  not  seem  to  appreciate  this,  and  I  am  not  sure 
but  that  it  would  be  quite  as  well  for  Americans 
to  adopt  the  same  rule  in  some  places.  The  ladies 
are  as  intelligent,  and  apparently  more  healthy, 
if  not  quite  so  handsome,  as  American  ladies. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

THE  STROLL  CONTINUED  —  SOMERSET  HOUSE  — 
HOUGHTON'S  —  OLD  BAILEY  —  OLD  LONDON 
STONE,  ITS  HISTORY  —  HAMBURG  BANK  —  ST. 
PAUL'S  CATHEDRAL  —  BRITISH  MUSEUM  —  THE 
ROMANS  —  GRECIAN  *AND     EGYPTIAN    ROOMS  — 

.  MARK  ANTONY — CLEOPATRA — THE  ROYAL  LI- 
BRARY— THE  ORIGINAL   MAGNA  CHARTA. 

ONE  night's  rest  after  my  first  day's  stroll, 
and  I  felt  braced  up  for  any  emergency ; 
hence  on  the  morning  of  December  i,  I  attemped 
a  further  view  of  the  city.  Supposing  that  busi- 
ness called  me  there,  I  went  direct  to  Somerset 
House.  Formerly  this  was  the  palace  of  an  earl 
of  the  same  name.  In  the  old  building  Henrietta 
Maria,  consort  of  Charles  I.  and  Catharine  of 
Braganza  (wife  of  Charles  II.),  held  their 
Courts,  The  present  spacious  building  was 
erected  in  1776,  (a  memorable  year  for  America). 
It  is  now  the  seat  of  various  Government  offices 
and  the  headquarters  for  several  learned  socie- 
ties.   The  King's  College,  the  Navy  Pay  Office, 

(83) 


84  NOTES   OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

and  a  number  of  other  offices  are  kept  here.  The 
different  offices  in  the  building  employ  1,700 
clerks,  at  an  expense  of  $1,990,000.  Here  the 
records  of  births,  marriages,  deaths,  and  of  wills 
are  kept.  Wills  from  most  counties  in  the  king- 
dom, dating  from  the  year  1020,  to  the  present 
time,  are  recorded  here.  To  look  at  a  record, 
the  person  must  purchase  a  ticket  from  the  offi- 
cer in  charge,  which  costs  one  shilling,  and  every 
new  search  a  new  ticket  must  be  obtained.  Look- 
ing over  several  records,  we  found  at  least  fifty 
families  of  Houghtons,  as  well  as  a  very  beauti- 
ful street  of  that  name,  in  the  city,  which  fact 
may  not  be  altogether  uninteresting  to  the 
Houghton  descendants  in  America.  From  this 
I  went  to  the  Old  Bailey,  famous  in  history  as  a 
Criminal  Court-room  and  prison.  It  is  a  dingy- 
looking  old  building,  connected  with  so  many  his- 
torical incidents  and  events  of  a  notorious  char- 
acter, as  to  render  it  attractive,  especially  after  I 
was  shown  the  spot  where  the  criminals  had  been 
brought  from  thence  and  executed.  To  the  right 
of  the  Bailey  is  Farringdon  Street,  and  to  the  left 
is  Bridge  Street.  At  the  place  where  these 
streets  converge  to  a  point  of  intersection,  there 
is  erected  a  monument  to  John  Wilkes,  who  was 


THE   STROLL   CONTINUED.  85 

a  prisoner  of  state  here  in  the  last  century.  The 
next  object  that  attracted  attention  was  the  old 
London  Stone,  fixed  in  the  south  wall  of  Saint 
Swithin's  Church.  The  history  is  as  follows :  It 
was  used  by  the  Romans  from  which  to  com- 
mence the  measurement  of  roads,  while  England 
was  under  the  Roman  rule,  and  is  supposed  to 
have  been  of  considerable  magnitude,  but  now 
does  not  exceed  the  dimensions  of  a  large  bomb- 
shell. It  was  once  regarded  with  "  superstitious 
veneration  "  as  it  was  supposed  to  be  in  some 
way  connected  with  the  safety  of  the  city.  Ad- 
joining St.  Swithin,  is  the  Hamburg  Bank,  on 
which  we  had  our  bill  of  exchange.  There  is 
nothing  remarkable  about  this  bank  farther  than 
it  does  a  large  business,  employs  a  great  many 
clerks,  and  yet  we -presented  our  bill,  which  was 
duly  honored  and  cashed,  without  identity — a 
feat  we  have  never  been  able  to  perform  in 
America.  I  can  not  tell  how  it  was  done,  nor 
could  I  get  any  one  else  to  explain.  If  an 
American  banker  can,  I  shall  be  much  obliged. 
Every  thing  seemed  to  work  for  my  interest  and 
I  was  therefore  somewhat  elated.  When  I  stood 
in  the  nave  of  St.  Paul's  Cathedral,  I  could  easily 
imagine  myself  standing  upon  holy  ground,  and 


86      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

no  request  was  necessary  to  enable  me  to  take 
off  my  hat.  As  I  looked  to  the  right  or  left,  I 
imagined  myself  among  the  tombs;  but  as  I 
looked  up,  methought  I  could  see  up  into  the 
very  heavens.  Either  way  my  eyes  were  cast  it 
made  a  solemn  impression.  I  did  not  want  to  go 
to  the  tombs,  and  felt  that  I  could  not  go  direct 
to  heaven.  St.  Paul's  Cathedral,  as  it  now  stands, 
covers  the  ashes  of  many  churches.  It  is  said  to 
stand  upon  a  site  where  once  stood  a  temple  of 
Diana,  in  which  "great  enormities  were  prac- 
ticed." But  the  present  grand  structure  has 
swept  away  all  such  indignities.  The  structure 
is  nearly  half  a  mile  in  circumference ;  being  282 
feet  wide,  510  feet  long.  From  the  foundation  to 
the  cross  is  404  feet  high — the  cross  in  itself  is  30 
feet  high  ;  but  to  an  observer  on  the  ground,  it 
appears  little  larger  than  the  crucifix  usually  worn 
by  ladies  as  an  ornament.  The  present  structure 
was  planned  by  Christopher  Wren,  in  1710,  and 
stands  on  the  ruins  of  five  churches,  besides  the 
temple  of  Diana.  The  first  was  erected  in  the 
early  ages  of  Christianity  and  was  destroyed 
during  the  reign  of  Dioctetiah,  Emperor  of 
Rome,  a.d.  282.  The  second  was  erected  by  Con- 
stantine,  and  destroyed  by  the  Saxons.     About 


12 

cts. 

37 

f( 

12 

«( 

12 

« 

THE   STROLL  CONTINUED.  87 

A.D.  610,  Sebert,  Sub-King  of  Ethelbert,  built 
the  third  church  on  this  site,  which  was  de- 
stroyed by  fire  in  1033.  Immediately  after  this 
Bishop  Mauritius  erected  the  fifth,  and  still  finer 
cathedral,  which  was  destroyed  in  the  great  fire 
of  1666.  The  present  took  thirty-five  years  to 
complete,  at  an  expense  of  $3,7005000. 

The  fee  now  required  of  visitors  is  as  follows : 

To  Whispering  Gallery 
"  Ball 

"  Library  - 

"   Clock  and  Crypt 

I  do  not  know  that  it  was  so  designed,  but  as 
you  stand  in  the  nave,  either  way  you  look,  you 
are  attracted  by  a  monument  to  the  memory  of 
some  distinguished  worthy.  Here  lies  John 
Howard,  Dr.  Johnson,  the  Duke  of  Wellington, 
Christopher  Wren,  and  a  host  of  others,  whose 
memory  impress  the  visitor  with  the  solemnity 
attending  a  funeral ;  but  as  you  turn  the  eye 
upward  and  behold  the  beautiful  arched  dome, 
unequaled  for  its  beautiful  adorning,  the  ob- 
server will  at  once  regard  the  whole  structure  as 
a  beautiful  allegory  of  the  sordid  things  of  earth 
and  the  beauties  of  heaven. 

One  of  the  most  interesting,  if  not  the  most 


88  NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN   EUROPE. 

solemn  sights  of  London,  was  the  British  Muse- 
um. To  give  even  a  passing  notice  of  what  I 
here  saw  in  two  hours,  would  be  simply  absurd; 
and  to  intimate  that  it  contained  the  most  re- 
markable collection  of  antiquities,  the  works  of 
art  and  other  objects  of  interest  in  the  world, 
would  be  no  exaggeration.  Here  are  to  be  seen 
the  life-like  statues  of  the  whole  line  of  Roman 
emperors,  cut  by  Roman  hands  in  the  days  when 
Rome  was  in  her  glory ;  among  which  stands 
prominent  the  great  Caesar.  The  Grecian  Room 
likewise  furnishes  many  samples  of  Grecian  skill, 
in  the  days  of  her  greatness,  the  most  perfect 
specimens  of  which  are  the  bust  of  Demosthe- 
nes, Socrates,  and  Plato,  which  are  no  doubt  ex- 
cellent likenesses  of  the  great  originals,  carved 
out  by  master  hands.  In  the  Assyrian  transept 
are  found  the  most  perfect  specimens  of  ancient 
Assyrian  art.  In  that  department  nothing  was 
more  interesting  than  the  great  man-bull,  and 
the  man-lion,  pictures  of  which  are  so  often  seen 
in  scientific  works.  These  are  the  original  fig- 
ures once  placed  at  the  entrance  of  Nimrod's 
Palace..  The  stones  upon  which  these  monsters 
are  carved  are  of  solid  granite,  and  must  be  six 
feet  thick,  ten  feet  high,  and  fourteen  feet  long. 


THE  STROLL  CONTINUED.  89 

I  could  not  find  out  how  such  a  mass  was  trans- 
ported from  its  original  resting-place.  In  the 
Egyptian  Room,  I  could  not  avoid  noticing 
specially  the  mummy  of  Cleopatra,  the  dis- 
tinguished Egyptian  queen.  After  viewing  the 
mortal  remains,  doubts  arose  as  to  whether  this 
was  the  body  that  once  contained  the  spirit  that 
captivated  Mark  Antony ;  but  when  one  of  the 
official  managers  stepped  forward  and  called  my 
attention  to  the  sarcophagus,  from  which  the 
body  had  been  taken,  and  then  read  from  the 
hieroglyphical  inscription  thereon  :  "  Cleopatra, 
Queen  of  Egypt,  famous  alike  for  her  beauty  and 
her  passion,  daughter  of  Ptolemy  Auletes,"  I 
could  no  longer  lack  faith.  The  department  of 
curious  animals,  birds,  fishes,  and  reptiles,  is  no 
doubt  the  finest  collection  in  the  world.  Having 
now  feasted  the  eyes  in  these  several  depart- 
ments, through  the  kindness  of  one  of  the  man- 
agers, I  obtained  permission  to  visit  the  Reading- 
Room.  This  feat  usually  requires  a  great  deal 
of  ceremony,  but  I  finally  succeeded  in  obtaining 
a  ticket,  of  which  the  following  is  a  copy  : 

"  No.  1472.— Not  Transferable. — This  ticket  ad- 
mits Mr.  J.  S.  Bender  to  the  Reading-Room  of 
the  British  Museum  for  one  day,  Dec.  2d." 


90       NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

After  my  trouble  I  found  to  my  great  astonish- 
ment that  I  had  nothing  to  pay  for  this  privilege. 
I  right  here  learned  this  lesson,  that  where  it  re- 
quired ceremony,  no  pay  was  required,  but  with- 
out this,  the  "almighty  shilling"  was  wanted. 
Being  equipped  for  any  emergency,  I  now  ob- 
tained admission  to  the  Reading-Room,  and 
gratified  my  curiosity  on  Doomsday  Book, 
which  is  about  800  years  old,  written  in  Latin, 
Norman,  and  French,  in  the  old  Anglo-Saxon 
letters.  From  thence  I  went  through  the  Royal 
Library,  which  does  honor  to  the  world.  The 
ancient  manuscript  room  is  very  attractive. 
Here  among  other  things  I  was  permitted  to 
view  the  original  Magna  Charta  of  King  John 
with  the  Great  Seal  attached.  This  seal  con- 
tains about  one  pound  of  wax ;  but  when  com- 
pared with  the  seal  of  Queen  Victoria  (which  is 
nearly  as  large  as  a  surveyor's  compass  with  a  six- 
inch  needle),  it  sinks  into  insignificance.  This 
completes  my  observations  for  this  day. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

LONDON  AND  SOUTHWESTERN  RAILROAD — CHALK 
HILLS— DENZELL  PLACE — ANECDOTE  —  SOUTH- 
AMPTON— CANUTE — EDMUND  IRONSIDES — THE 
OLD  NORMAN  WALL  AND  GATE — HARTLEY  LI- 
BRARY— DR.   WATTS'   MONUMENT. 

HAVING  now  had  a  glimpse  of  the  metrop- 
olis, on  the  morning  of  December  2d  I 
took  train  for  Southampton,  via  the  London  and 
Southwestern  Railroad,  whither  the  reader  must 
go  with  me  for  a  short  time.  This  road  takes 
the  passenger  through  the  remarkable  chalk 
hills  of  England,  which  would  seem  to  contain  an 
inexhaustible  supply  of  this  article  for  the  whole 
world,  future  ages  taken  into  consideration.  Some 
of  these  hills  are  much  higher  than  Mount  Carmel, 
and  deeper  than  Lake  Gennesaret.  The  chalk  re- 
gions extend  a  great  portion  of  the  distance  from 
London  to  Southampton,  which  is  seventy-eight 
miles.  Much  of  this  chalk  crops  out,  and  many 
farms,  well  cultivated,  appear  to  be  but  a  bed  of 

(91) 


92       NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

chalk.  I  was  told  that  where  the  chalk  did  not 
rise  too  near  the  surface,  the  lands  were  ex- 
cellent ;  that  where  the  surface  was  but  a  chalk 
bed,  grain  and  vegetables  did  not  grow  well ; 
although  chalk  was  used  as  a  fertilizer  on  clay 
lands.  On  this  line  of  railroad  are  many  tunnels, 
which  are  moss-grown  with  age ;  a  good  portion 
of  the  country  along  the  line  is  very  productive ; 
farmers  raising  from  forty  to  seventy  bushels  of 
wheat  to  the  acre.  The  wheat  fields  were  green, 
and  the  husbandmen  diligently  at  work  plow- 
ing for  a  later  crop.  My  idea  of  the  country, 
however,  was,  that  it  is  best  adapted  to  raising 
stock.  This  conclusion  was  reached  from  this 
fact,  that  at  that  time,  although  late  in  the  fall, 
the  climate  was  still  moist,  and  the  grass  green 
and  luxuriant. 

Gratified  with  the  scenery  of  this  part  of  the 
old  country,  at  10  o'clock  A.  M.  I  reached  South- 
ampton ;  got  off  the  train,  and  looked  around  to 
see  if  any  person  we  ever  knew  was  there.  It  is 
said  that  the  traveler  can  go  no  place,  without 
finding  some  person  he  knows,  but  here  I  did  not, 
and  failing,  engaged  a  hack  for  No.  2  Denzell 
Place,  where  I  found  a  cheerful  and  comfortable 
home,  during  my  stay  at  this  point.     Introduc  ..ig 


SOUTHAMPTON.  93 

myself,  as  I  had  no  one  to  do  so  for  me,  and  after 
exchanging  the  usual  compliments,  I  returned  to 
the  station  on  foot,  and  the  first  man  I  met  there 
was  Mr.  Joseph  A.  Blundell,  a  gentleman  with 
whom  I  had  spent  many  pleasant  hours  in  Amer- 
ica. Of  course,  I  returned  with  him  to  his  father's 
house,  and  after  a  short  rest,  and  an  excellent 
dinner,  took  a  walk  through  the  city.  On  my 
first  entry  into  the  town  I  called  at  a  private  resi- 
dence for  a  drink  of  water.  A  very  respectable 
lady  made  her  appearance.     Said  I: 

44  Would  you  be  kind  enough  to  let  me  have  a 
glass  of  water  ?  " 

'Said  she  :  "  No,  sir." 

Feeling  snubbed,  I  was  about  beating  a  retreat, 
when  I  recognized  a  pleasing  smile  upon  her 
face,  with  the  accompanying  remark: 

"  We  don't  drink  water  at  Southampton ; 
water  is  not  good  here.  We  can  let  you  have  a 
bottle  of  stout  if  you  desire  it." 

I  was  somewhat  in  the  situation  of  the  boy 
after  the  bee  stung  him,  when  asked  whether  he 
wanted  honey,  said :  "  1  don't  know."  Never 
having  heard  of  stout,  I  did  not  know.  Hence' I 
inquired  whether  it  would  quench  thirst? 


94  NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE, 

The  lady  said  she  did  not  know  whether*  it 
would  or  not,  but  that  people  said  it  would. 

I  then  informed  her  I  would  try  the  stout ; 
which  had  the  desired  effect,  and  which  I  found 
to  be  generally  used  in  and  around  the  place, 
without  the  apparently  injurious  effect  arising" 
from  the  constant  use  of  lager-beer  in  America. 
I  am  not  prepared  to  say,  however,  that  the  in- 
troduction of  it  into  America,  to  be  used  as  a 
beverage,  would  have  a  good  or  evil  effect.  The 
apology  for  its  use  in  the  south  of  England  is, 
that  the  dampness  of  the  atmosphere  relaxes  the 
system  to  such  an  extent,  that  the  health  of  the 
country  seemingly  demands  the  use  of  stimulants. 

Southampton,  at  first  sight,  does  not  strike  the 
stranger  favorably.  It  is  situated  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  rivers  Itchen  and  Test,  and  an  arm 
of  the  sea  stretching  four  miles  above  and  seven 
miles  below  the  town.  The  site  is  elevated,  yet 
the  town  is  exceedingly  damp,  foggy,  and  rainy, 
so  much  so  as  to  produce  a  melancholy  effect ; 
yet  after  a  rapid  survey  and  casual  view  of  the 
town,  and  a  short  stay  therein,  the  visitor  will 
come  to  this  conclusion:  that  consumptives,  if 
not  too  far  gone,  will  live  as  long  there  as  any- 


SOUTHAMPTON.  95 

where  else.  The  town,  as  is  usual  with  the  an- 
cient oriental  cities,  is  irregularly  laid  out.  It  is 
located  on  an  elevated  tract  of  ground,  which 
places  it  beyond  the  reach  of  flood,  hovyever 
much  it  may  rain.  At  the  present  writing  the 
town  contains  near  fifty  thousand  inhabitants, 
and  is  particularly  noted  for  its  ecclesiastical  and 
military  antiquities,  ancient  buildings,  and  the 
general  salubrity  of  the  atmosphere  is  acknowl- 
edged. The  name  is  said  to  have  been  derived 
from  the  Saxon  words  "ham"  a.  house,  "tun"  a 
town,  and  its  foundation  was  supposed  to  have 
been  laid  prior  to  the  Christian  era.  From  that 
time  to  the  present  it  has,  like  most  ancient 
towns  of  any  notoriety,  passed  through  many 
vicissitudes.  At  one  time  it  was  occupied  by  the 
Romans,  after  that  the  Danish  invasion  gave  the 
town  to  the  Danes.  It  was  about  the  year  1016 
when  Canute,  the  great  Danish  leader,  had  his 
contest  with  Edmund  Ironsides.  There  are  a 
number  of  handsome  streets  in  this  town,  among 
which  High  Street  seems  the  most  remarkable. 
The  name  of  this  street  would  indicate  an  an- 
cient origin  of  this  town,  as  there  is  not  an  anti- 
quated town  or  city  in  England  that  I  visited, 
but  what  had  a  thoroughfare  called  High  Street. 


g6  NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

It  may  be  that  the  inhabitants  of  every  ancient 
city  have  been  on  a  "  high,"  as  Americans 
sometimes  call  it.  It  was  upon  this  street  I  no- 
ticed Canute's  palace,  where  it  is  supposed  the 
eminent  Dane  used  to  reside  ;  a  hotel  now  marks 
the  spot  where  it  is  said  he  administered  his  re- 
buke to  his  courtiers.  It  is  here  that  I  observed 
the  first  gate  of  a  city,  which  must  have  been 
erected  during  or  succeeding  the  Norman  con- 
quest. The  gate  is  under  an  archway  over  High 
Street,  which,  undoubtedly,  was  the  entrance  of 
the  city.  Of  the  Southampton  wall,  a  good  por- 
tion is  still  remaining  in  a  fair  state  of  preservation. 
Over  the  gateway  is  a  hall,  which  was  erected 
at  the  same  time,  and  is  now  used  as  a  town  hall. 
From  the  appearance  of  the  arches  in  this  hall,  it 
must  be  of  Norman  origin  ;  hence  built  about 
the  time,  or  shortly  after,  the  Norman  invasion 
as  a  means  of  defense.  Much  of  the  town  is  out- 
side of  the  wall  and  gate  ;  but  there  are  enough 
old  landmarks  remaining  to  serve  to  illustrate 
the  Scriptural  declaration  in  regard  to  the  gate 
of  a  city.  The  Hartley  Library  and  Reading- 
Room  is  an  institution  worth  visiting.  It  con- 
tains over  seven  thousand  volumes,  and  a  lecture- 
room  capable  of  seating  twelve  hundred  persons. 


SOUTHAMPTON.  97 

I  am  under  obligation  to  Joseph  and  Fred.  Blun- 
dell  for  admission  to  this  room.  The  town  con- 
tains many  ancient  churches  and  halls,  among 
which  Guild  Hall  is  perhaps  the  oldest.  A  spe- 
cially remarkable  feature  about  this  town  is  its 
beautiful  parks.  Cumberland  Park  contains  the 
statue  of  Dr.  Isaac  Watts,  which  is  nine  feet 
high,  carved  from  the  finest  quality  of  Sicilian 
marble.  When  asked  what  I  thought  of  the 
statue,  I  remarked  that  it  was  a  fine  monument, 
and  was  only  excelled  by  the  one  erected  by 
himself.  The  inscription  on  the  latter  is  in  every 
hymn-book,  in  every  church,  in  almost  every  land. 
After  this  casual  observation  of  the  town,  I  re- 
turned with  my  escort  to  No.  2  Denzell  Place. 
5 


CHAPTER   IX. 

SALISBURY    CATHEDRAL — DRUIDS*   INN — STONE- 
HENGE — ITS  ORIGIN. 

ON  Saturday  morning,  December  9,  the  over- 
hanging clouds  at  Southamptom  indicated 
rain,  and  the  general  state  of  the  atmosphere  put 
on  a  gloomy  cast.  Having  the  day  before  enjoy- 
ed the  company  of  the  most  distinguished  Saxons 
and  Danes  of  the  9th,  10th,  and  nth  centuries 
(what  remains  of  them),  and  having  felt  that 
pleasurable  sensation  which  usually  attends  one 
when  in  the  company  of  high  dignitaries  who 
can  do  us  no  harm,  the  question  was  to-day, 
how  we  could  be  let  down  from  the  dizzy  height 
to  which  we  had  climbed  yesterday,  without  be- 
ing stunned.  There  were  numerous  places  of 
interest,  sufficient  to  keep  up  the  excitement,  and 
many  were  suggested.  There  wras  the  Isle  of 
Wight,  the  Armory  at  Portsmouth,  William  the 
Conqueror,   and    Stonehenge.      As   we   had   no 

acquaintances  in  the  Isle  of  Wight,  and  are  not 

(98) 


SALISBURY— STONEHENGE.  99 

much  of  a  lover  of  munitions  of  war,  only  so  far 
as  they  are  retained  as  trophies,  and  relics  of  the 
past,  and  having  seen  the  stone  coffin  of  Rufus  the 
day  before,  we  decided  to  run  down  to  Stonehenge, 
which  is  thirty-one  miles  north-west  of  South- 
ampton, and  seventy-five  miles  south-west  of  Lon- 
don. It  is  reached  from  Southampton  by  taking 
cars. on  the  Branch  of  the  London  and  Southwest- 
ern R.R.  to  Salisbury  ;  from  thence  by  private 
conveyance.  Waiting  a  short  time  at  Salisbury, 
or  New  Sarum,  gave  me  a  few  minutes  to  view  the 
Salisbury  Cathedral.  This  grand  structure  is  of 
the  very  finest  English  architecture,  and  from 
the  ground  to  the  top  of  the  spire  it  is  450  feet,  or 
thirty  feet  higher  than  St.  Paul's  of  London  ;  in 
fact,  it  is  the  highest  church  in  Great  Britain,  and 
is  only  exceeded  in  height  by  St.  Peter's  at 
Rome.  An  effort  to  obtain  admission  to  the  in- 
side of  this  building  proved  unavailing.  De- 
termined to  go  in  at  all  hazards,  we  approached 
the  great  door,  but  found  it  as  solid  as  that  of  a 
burglar-proof  safe,  with  the  following  notice  on 
the  hook:  "  No  visitors  admitted  within  this 
chapel  during  the  hours  of  service."  We  had 
happened  here  during  solemn  service,  hence 
made  no  further  effort,  so  that  what  of  interest 


100  NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

was  inside  must  remain  a  secret  to  the  world  at 
present,  so  far  as  we  are  concerned.  Whatever 
loss  this  misfortune  may  be  to  mankind,  it  was 
nevertheless  some  gain  to  me.  I  had  more  time 
to  view  the  outside.  Traveling  around  through 
the  beautiful  yard  we  saw  the  porch,  which  from 
its  antiquated  appearance  I  judged  to  be  much 
older  than  the  other  parts  of  the  cathedral,  and 
is  of  Roman  architecture.  This  porch,  we  were 
told,  was  brought  from  Sarum,  an  ancient  Roman 
town,  but  two  miles  east  of  Salisbury,  and  placed 
here  on  the  exact  spot  where  the  Saxons  and 
ancient  Britons  fought  their  memorable  battle 
in  the  year  552.  This  battle,  history  informs 
us,  was  fought  by  the  Saxons  under  the 
generalship  of  Cynaic,  who  put  the  Britons  to 
flight ;  and  it  must  have  been  a  complete 
conquest,  as  we  have  never  heard  or  read  of 
any  achievements  by  the  Britons  since  that 
time.  Salisbury  was  originally  called  New  Sa- 
rum. Our  one-horse  chaise  being  now  ready, 
we  started  for  Stonehenge.  The  drive  took  us 
by  what  is  called  the  Armsbury  road,  which  is 
as  smooth  as  a  floor,  as  solid  as  a  rock,  and  one 
horse  seemed  to  move  with  as  much  ease  as  two 
would  carrv  the  same  weight  in  America.     This 


SALISBURY— BTONEHENGE.  IOI 

road  carried  us  past  Old  Sarum.  Here,  for  the 
first  time  in  my  life,  I  had  the  privilege  of  an 
actual  view  of  the  plan  of  an  ancient  Roman  and 
Grecian  city.  No  houses  are  remaining  at  Old 
Sarum,  but  the  terraced  hill,  and  ancient  citadel, 
are  as  plainly  to  be  seen  at  this  place  as  at  the 
ancient  site  of  Rome  or  the  Acropolis  at  Athens. 
This  road  led  into  what  appeared  to  be  a  hotel, 
and  upon  looking  up  we  saw  a  sign  on  which 
was  a  painting  of  a  bearded  man,  with  a  cap  on, 
and  under  the  portrait,  the  words  "  Druids'  Inn." 
It  being  extremely  chilly,  it  was  thought  best  to 
stop  and  see  whether  the  Druids  were  in.  Knock- 
ing at  the  door,  a  gentleman  who  we  were  in- 
formed was  the  landlord  appeared,  a  fac-simile 
of  the  painting  on  the  sign.  He  was  soon  fol- 
lowed by  his  Druid  wife  and  children.  Having 
tarried,  conversed,  and  lunched  with  the  Druids, 
until  we  were  comfortable,  we  again  started  for 
Stonehenge,  which  is  just  two  miles  from 
"  Druids'  Inn."  Proceeding  about  one  mile  our 
attention  was  attracted  by  a  dozen  or  more 
quadrupeds,  which  I  supposed  to  be  big  rabbits ; 
but  the  driver  informed  us  that  they  were  English 
hares.  Never  having  seen  a  hare  before,  my  first 
impulse  was  to  get  out  and  catch  one  as  a  relic 


102      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

of  Salisbury  Plain.  We  did  not  lose  sight  of 
these  animals  until  the  driver  remarked  that  we 
were  in  sight  of  Stonehenge.  Forgetting  all 
else,  I  now  prepared  for  an  investigation  of  the 
principal  object  of  the  visit.  On  alighting  at  the 
Henge  the  first  thought  was  to  take  a  chip  off 
one  of  these  mammoth  stones;  but  remembering 
that  we  had  neither  hammer  nor  chisel,  we  were 
compelled  to  omit  the  barbarous  practice  of  de- 
stroying ancient  monuments  to  gratify  our  thirst 
for  relics,  and  become  content  with  a  bunch  of 
moss  which  grew  on  the  rocks,  and  which  I 
packed  in  my  trunk  and  carefully  preserved. 
My  opinion  is  that  Stonehenge  is  the  remains 
of  an  ancient  British  temple,  which  had  been 
dedicated  to  the  Sun.  In  connection  with  the 
temple  was  a  race-course,  similar  to  that  used  by 
the  Grecians  near  Mount  Olympus,  which  St. 
Paul  evidently  referred  to  in  his  Epistle  to  the 
Corinthians.  Near  this  temple  are  traces  of  an 
ancient  burying-ground,  which  appears  from  the 
number  of  mounds,  resembling  the  Indian 
**>   mounds  of  America. 

Not  satisfied,  however,  with  this  theory,  on 
our  return  to  Southampton  I  immediately  pro- 
ceeded to  the  Hartley  Library  and  called  for  a 


SALISBURY— STONEHENGE.  103 

book  that  would  give  light  on  the  subject.  The 
very  courteous  gentleman  in  charge  immediately 
produced  a  copy  of  the  Encyclopaedia  Britannica, 
from  which  I  copied  the  following  bit  of  history 
concerning  this  remarkable  monument  of  antiq- 
uity: 

"  The  first  account  of  the  structure  is  in  Geof- 
frey of  Monmouth,  who,  in  the  reign  of  King 
Stephen,  wrote  the  history  of  the  Britons  in 
Latin.  He  tells  that  it  was  erected  by  the  coun- 
sel of  Merlin,  the  British  enchanter,  at  the  com- 
mand of  Ansetus  Ambrosius,  the  last  British 
king,  in  memory  of  four  hundred  and  sixty 
Britons  who  were  murdered  by  Hengist  the 
Saxon.  The  next  account  is  that  of  Polydon 
Virgil,  who  says  that  the  Britons  erected  this  as 
a  sepulchral  monument  of  Ansetus  Ambrosius. 
But  other  writers  in  the  twelfth  century  discredit 
all  these  accounts ;  and  it  appears  that  even  at 
that  early  time  all  knowledge  of  its  origin  and 
intention  had  passed  away.  Inigo  Jones  is  of 
the  opinion  that  it  was  a  Roman  temple,  from  a 
stone  sixteen  feet  long  and  four  feet  broad, 
placed  in  an  erect  position  to  the  eastward,  altar 
fashion.     Dr.  Christian  attributes  it  to  the  Danes, 


104      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

who  were  two  years  masters  of  Wiltshire.  Many 
other  theories  have  since  been  propounded,  and 
supported  with  more  or  less  ingenuity  and 
plausibility ;  but  in  a  matter  so  obscure,  little 
more  than  a  probable  conjecture  of  the  truth  can 
be  hoped  for.  It  seems  most  likely  that  Stone- 
henge  was  erected  by  the  ancient  British  for 
solemn  religious  rites,  and  from  the  art  displayed 
in  its  construction,  it  could  not  have  been  much 
earlier  than  the  time  of  the  Roman  conquest.  In 
the  vicinity  of  Stonehenge  are  the  remains  of 
what  seems  to  have  been  an  ancient  race-course ; 
and  as  in  early  times  the  public  games  were 
generally  connected  with  religious  celebration, 
it  is  highly  probable  that  this  was  in  connection 
with  the  temple  at  Stonehenge." 

How  those  mammoth  stones  were  brought 
there,  and  whence  obtained,  is  still  a  mystery. 
On  our  return  we  passed  through  the  village  of 
the  Avon,  and  had  a  full  view  of  the  house  where 
Charles  II.  was  secreted  for  some  days  after  the 
battle  of  Worcester.  The  sight  of  this  house 
sent  our  imagination  back  two  hundred  years. 
In  the  valley  before  reaching  Salisbury  we 
passed   the  village  of  Stratford.      I  thought  at 


SALISBURY— STONEHENGE.  105 

first  I  was  at  the  birth-place  of  Shakespeare,  but 
a  little  reflection  showed  me  that  it  is  another 
Stratford  where  the  English  bard  was  born. 
We  returned  to  headquarters  well  pleased  with 
our  visit  and  observations  of  that  day. 

5* 


CHAPTER  X. 

NETLEY  ABBEY — CAMP  CLAUSENTUM— VICTORIA 
HOSPITAL  —  WINCHESTER  CATHEDRAL  —  ST. 
CROSS  HOSPITAL. 

THRILLED  with  yesterday's  observations, 
strengthened  by  a  quiet  night's  rest  and  a 
good  English  breakfast,  and  feeling  a  little 
Quixotic,  in  company  with  Mr.  Blundell  I 
prepared  for  a  siege  of  Netley  Abbey,  a  place 
that  I  had  never  heard  of  before.  This  ancient 
monastery  is  situated  about  three  and  a  half 
miles  from  Southampton,  on  an  arm  of  the  sea, 
and  conceals  within  its  walls  many  points  of  in- 
terest, which,  if  written,  would  fill  a  volume  ;  but 
I  have  not  time  nor  opportunity  to  dig  them  out. 
Suffice  it  to  say  that  the  abbey  was  erected  by 
some  Cisterian  monks  who  emigrated  from  France 
at  the  beginning  of  the  thirteenth  century.  The 
inside  of  the  building  is  211  feet  long  by  50 
feet  wide.     At  the  transepts,  or  wings,  it  is  160 

feet  wide,  and  from  the  ground  to  the  summit  of 
(106) 


NETLEY  ABBEY — CLAUSENTUM.      107 

the  gable  is  80  feet.  Though  nearly  destroyed, 
it  reveals  some  of  the  most  perfect  specimens  of 
Norman  architecture.  Its  vaulted  rooms  and 
subterranean  passages,  many  of  which  are  still 
to  be  seen,  impressed  us  with  the  idea  that  it  was 
constructed  for  defense  against  invasion  as  well 
as  for  a  place  of  worship.  One  room,  in  a  partial 
state  of  preservation,  with  its  vaulted  door,  had 
something  of  the  appearance  of  a  prison,  which, 
for  want  of  better  information,  we  concluded 
had  been  used  to  punish  refractory  monks. 

The  old  Roman  camp,  Clausentum,  was  not 
far  from  this,  at  which  place  there  is  a  castle  still 
remaining  in  a  fine  state  of  preservation,  and  oc- 
cupied by  a  family.  From  this  castle  a  subter- 
ranean passage  is  supposed  to  have  been  con- 
structed to  the  abbey.  Niches  are  yet  apparent 
in  the  walls,  which  are  supposed  at  some  time  in 
the  world's  history  to  have  contained  the  busts 
of  saints  or  other  ancient  worthies ;  but  now, 
like  footprints  of  a  human  being  in  the  solid 
rock,  we  can  tell  how  those  niches  were  made, 
and  what  made  them,  but  do  not  know  who 
once  filled  them.  One  thing  we  especially  know  : 
nowhere  is  the  ruthless  hands  of  the  invaders 
more  visible  than  on  the  old  walls.     The  abbey 


I08      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE.  . 

was  probably  destroyed  in  the  reign  of  Henry 
■VIII.  or  during  Cromwell's  wars.  The  old  ivy- 
covered  walls  and  gables  now  standing,  with  the 
wildness  of  the  surrounding  landscape,  and  the 
profound  stillness,  convince  the  visitor  at  once 
that  Netley  Abbey  ranks  among  the  grand  ruins 
in  the  world.  The  old  winding  stairway  was 
closed,  or  we  should  have  scaled  the  walls  ;  but 
when  our  guide  told  us  that  one  or  two  years 
ago  a  young  lady  who  had  gone  up,  fell  down 
and  was  killed,  and  that  the  avenue  had  been 
closed  to  prevent  further  accident,  our  regrets 
were  changed  to  thanks.  Every  vestige  of  the 
stained  glass  has  been  removed,  but  there  is  still 
remaining  a  portion  of  the  tesselated  tiling  which 
covered  the  floor,  and  which  reveals  an  art 
that  now  seems  lost  to  the  world.  By  paying 
our  guide  a  shilling,  we  were  permitted  each  to 
take  a  small  fragment  of  this  tiling  with  us.  We 
left  the  ruin  with  many  regrets  and  fully  believ- 
ing that  it  will  pay  any  one  visiting  the  south  of 
England  to  take  the  journey  to  see  Netley 
Abbey. 

While  returning  to  Southampton  we  took  a 
survey  of  the  Royal  Victoria  Hospital,  which 
was  on  our  way,  and  about  one  mile  from  the 


VICTORIA   HOSPITAL.  IO9 

abbey,  and  three  and  a  half  miles  from  Southh- 
ampton. This  building  is  1,420  feet,  or  over  a 
quarter  of  a  mile,  in  length  ;  the  architecture  is 
Italian,  and  was  erected  by  her  majesty,  Queen 
Victoria,  in  1856,  immediately  after  the  Crimean 
war.  It  is  built  of  brick  and  stone  at  a  cost  of 
over  £3,000,000.  Three  thousand  sick  soldiers 
are  landed  here  every  year;  and  it  is  the  head- 
quarters of  the  medical  staff  of  the  army.  At- 
tached to  the  hospital  is  a  library,  museum,  and 
lunatic  asylum.  The  ground  on  which  it  is 
situated  contains  two  hundred  and  fifty  acres 
beautifully  ornamented  and  adorned  with  ever- 
greens, fruits,  and  other  trees  and  shrubbery, 
together  with  monuments  and  statuary,  which 
give  the  whole  an  attractive  as  well  as  half- 
melancholy  appearance.  It  was  this  place  that 
suggested  to  me  that  in  England  the  great  effort 
is  to  preserve  antiquities  and  nature,  and  in 
America  the  strife  is  to  supersede  the  beauties 
of  natural  scenery  with  the  monotony  of  art. 
The  museum  of  skulls  and  sections  of  the  human 
body  distorted  by  disease,  if  ghastly  and  revolt- 
ing to  the  finer  feelings,  certainly  forms  one  of 
the  most  interesting,  if  not  attractive  features  of 
this  institution. 


110  NOTES   OF  TRAVEL   IN   EUROPE. 

The  quay  at  Southampton  contains  a  small 
saluting  battery  of  seven  guns,  in  which  we  no- 
ticed one  that,  according  to  the  inscription,  had 
been  presented  to  the  citizens  of  Southampton 
by  Henry  VIII.  It  is  a  rude  piece  of  mechan- 
ism ;  but  when  we  considered  that  it  was  here  at 
the  instance  of  that  monarch,  who  lived  over 
three  hundred  years  ago,  and  created  such  com- 
motion as  well  as  sorrow  in  the  world,  it  became 
an  object  of  great  interest  to  me. 

On  December  4th  we  visited  Winchester 
Cathedral.  This  is  located  at  Winchester,  and 
is  said  to  be  the  oldest  of  its  class  in  the  king- 
dom. It  was  built  in  the  year  a.d.  980.  On  en- 
tering this  grand  old  structure,  I  was  immedi- 
ately impressed  with  the  idea  that  I  ought  to 
take  off  my  hat,  or  rather  cap ;  but  noticing  that 
my  English  cousin  did  not  take  off  his,  I  pre- 
sumed that  was  the  rule,  that  we  could  enter  the 
sepulchre  without  the  usual  formality  attending 
a  funeral.  We  were,  however,  soon  met  by  a 
sanctimonious-looking  man,  whose  appearance  im- 
pressed us  with  the  idea  that  he  had  just  come 
from  the  tombs,  or  had  been  lately  resurrected. 
He  asked  us  politely  and  solemnly  if  we  would 
take  off  our  hats.     I  immediately  put  my  hand 


WINCHESTER  CATHEDRAL.        Ill 

to  my  head — I  was  wearing-  only  a  skull  cap — 
and  remembering  then  that  I  had  seen  during 
religious  service  in  America  churchmen  of  my 
age  wear  their  skull  caps  during  service,  the 
first  impulse  was  to  resist  the  request  as  an  in- 
dignity. A  little  reflection,  however,  prompted 
me  to  take  off  my  cap,  which  I  deliberately  put 
in  my  coat  pocket.  My  companion  inquired  the 
necessity  of  this  formality — he  could  not  see  that 
this  place  was  any  better  than  any  other.  Our 
sacred-looking  gentleman  said  that  was  true ; 
but  that  the  rule  of  the  sanctuary  demanded  it, 
and  we  must  obey.  Having  now  been  posted  in 
the  rules,  we  followed  our  guide  through  the 
nave  into  the  main  chapel  and  to  the  altar,  and 
were  shown  a  beautiful  painting  executed  by 
Benjamin  West,  of  America.  In  the  right  and 
left  of  this  chapel,  elevated  above  the  floor,  are 
the  remains  of  the  following  dignitaries:  Ethel- 
wolf,  father  of  Alfred  the  Great ;  Hardicanute, 
and  his  father  Canute,  also  William  Rufus,  son 
of  William  the  Conque.or,  who  was  so  ruthlessly 
dealt  with,  lies  here.  Surrounded  by  effigies  of 
these  ancient  worthies,  something  of  the  same 
feeling  crept  over  me  that  usually  affects  modest 
men  in  the  presence  of  dignitaries— I  felt  sleepy. 


112  NOTES   OF  TRAVEL   IN   EUROPE. 

Leaving"  our  distinguished  company,  we  were 
conducted  to  a  small  apartment  which  contains 
Queen  Mary's  chair  and  toilet  table.  We  could 
not  have  resisted  the  temptation  to  take  a  seat 
immediately;  but  close  examination  revealed  an 
almost  invisible  picket  fence  which  rendered  the 
chair  entirely  inaccessible  to  common  humanity, 
so  that  we  had  to  take  our  leave  without  this  dis- 
tinguished honor,  or  even  to  get  a  chip  of  the 
chair  to  preserve  as  a  memorial  of  our  visit. 
Solemn  reflection,  however,  convinced  us  that 
if  every  impudent  American  were  allowed  to  do 
as  he  pleased  with  those  old  relics,  which,  like 
Lot's  wife,  have  become  almost  sacred  by  time, 
they  would  soon  lose  their  interest,  if  not  become 
invisible  to  the  naked  eye. 

With  many  solemn  reflections  and  regrets  we 
now  left  the  venerable  building  for  a  visit  to  St. 
Cross  Hospital.  This  was  erected  by  Henry  De 
Blois,  Bishop  of  Winchester,  and  brother  of 
King  Stephen,  in  the  year  1136.  The  lodge-of 
St.  Cross  seems  to  be  the  most  interesting  feat- 
ure of  the  building,  whither  we  were  conducted 
by  a  youth  of  ninety  summers.  Here  is  a  beau- 
tiful altar  and  tesselated  pavement,  for  permis- 
sion to  stand  upon  which,  our  guide  told  us,  one 


ST.   CRpSS   HOSPITAL.  113 

sympathetic  gentleman  visitor  had  paid  ^"3,000, 
equal  to  $15,000.  The  bait  was  too  big  for  us  to 
bite  at.  The  only  relic  that  I  remember  seeing 
here  was  the  table  of  King  Stephen,  which  is  of 
marble  and  elliptical  in  form.  This  we  were  not 
allowed  to  touch.  Determined  to  have  a  relic, 
we  could  discover  nothing  but  a  small  bit  of 
common  glass  hanging  loose  in  one  of  the  win- 
dows, which  we  appropriated,  and  have  carefully 
preserved.     We  now  returned  to  Southampton. 


CHAPTER   XL 

GOING  TO  ST.  LUKE'S  CHURCH — DESCRIPTION  OF 
SAME — BLUNDELL  FAMILY— WINCHESTER —  ST. 
GILES'   HILL. 

ON  Sunday  morning,  December  6th,  I  arose 
after  ten  hours'  sound  sleep,  feeling  some- 
what dull.  The  cloudiness  of  the  sky,  and  a 
steady  rain,  contributed  nothing  to  my  cheerful- 
ness— in  fact,  I  had  no  cheerfulness  to  speak  of. 
Under  such  circumstances  a  cheerful  counte- 
nance is  like  sunshine  to  a  drooping  flower.  I 
found  a  number  of  cheerful  souls  here;  yet,  like 
the  rusty  iron  plate  which  absorbs  the  rays  of 
the  sun  without  reflecting  any,  I  felt  that  I  was 
drawing  comfort  from  my  surroundings,  without 
the  ability  to  return  an  equivalent.  If  any  sensi- 
tive person  wants  to  feel  humble,  let  him  place 
himself  where  he  receives  blessings  and  is  with- 
out the  power  to  reciprocate.  Just  such  a  pre- 
dicament was  I  in  on  that  Sunday  morning.  In 
the  midst  of  gloomy  meditations  joy  often  comes 
from  a  source  from  whence  it  is  least  expected, 

(114) 


ST.   LUKE'S  CHURCH.  115 

Caroline  Blundell,  one  of  four  sisters,  whose 
early  education  and.  careful  training  place  them 
among  the  most  attractive  as  well  as  courteous 
young  ladies  of  south  England,  invited  me  to 
accompany  her  to  church.  It  is  not  strange  that 
under  the  circumstances  I  should  feel  embar- 
rassed;  but  when  I  saw  that  the  proposal  was 
kindly  intended,  I  gladly  accepted  it,  and  not 
even  the  rain  or  solemnity  of  the  occasion  had 
the  effect  to  mar  my  happiness.  I  had  a  desire  to 
attend  one  of  the  churches  of  England,  and  now 
the  opportunity  presented  itself. 

The  beautiful  church  of  St.  Luke  was  just 
across  the  street,  for  which  we  started.  After 
gaining  admission,  we  were  conducted  down  the 
aisle,  a  distance  which  seemed  to  me  to  be  about 
half  a  mile,  to  a  front  pew.  Caroline  and  myself 
were  put  in  the  same  pew.  This  increased  my 
diffidence  ;  but  when  I  looked  around  and  saw 
the  ladies  and  gentlemen  sitting  promiscuously 
all  over  the  room,  the  embarrassment  subsided. 
It  occurred  to  me  that  the  seating  of  the  sexes 
promiscuously,  even  in  a  church,  was  much  more 
natural  than  the  custom  of  separating  them  which 
is  in  vogue  in  some  of  our  American  churches, 
where,  although  the  husband  and  wife  enter  at 


I l6     NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

the  same  door,  they  immediately  separate,  the 
man  taking  one  and  the  woman  the  other  side 
of  the  room.  If  they  have  a  child,  two  years  or 
so  old,  it  may  be  permitted  to  trot  back  and 
forth  from  father  to  mother  during  the  service,  to 
the  great  annoyance  of  the  minister  and  his  audi- 
ence. Children  running  about  the  audience-room 
of  an  English  church,  during  service,  is  unknown. 
It  is  my  usual  custom,  when  among  strangers,  to 
conform  to  their  customs  as  near  as  can  be  with- 
out a  sacrifice  of  principle,  so  I  kneel,  sit,  or  stand, 
according  to  the  exigency  of  the  case,  and  in 
imitation  of  others,  but  not  being  entirely  unac- 
customed to  the  English  form  of  worship,  I  con- 
cluded that  it  would  be  difficult  to  go  through 
the  programme  without  committing  blunders ; 
so  without  meaning  any  irreverence  or  disre- 
spect, I  kept  my  seat  during  the  service.  This 
attitude  afforded  a  better  opportunity  for  observa- 
tion. St.  Luke's  Church,  like  most  churches  in 
England,  is  long  and  narrow,  and  finished  in  a 
style  which  gives  it  a  grand  and  solemn,  rather 
than  a  cheerful  appearance.  The  prayers  and 
other  parts  were  intoned  by  twenty-five  or  more 
boys,  dressed  in  white  surplices,  assisted  by  the 
pastor ;  and  during  the  services  the  congregation 


BLUNDELL  FAMILY.  WJ 

preserved  the  utmost  decorum.  After  prayers 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Few  delivered  a  sermon  to  an  ap- 
preciative congregation,  which  occupied  one-half 
hour.  After  this  the  congregation  were  dismissed/ 
and  we  returned  to  the  house.  On  Monday  and 
Tuesday,  the  7th  and  8th,  continual  rain  and 
general  inclemency  of  the  weather  prevented 
further  observation,  and  I  had  to  be  content  to 
remain  indoors  until  Wednesday,  the  9th.  This 
morning  my  baggage  was  arranged  with  the  view- 
to  taking  a  final  leave  of  Southampton ;  but  be- 
fore doing  so,  if  pardon  is  granted,  I  would  like 
to  say  a  few  words  about  the  Blundell  family.  It 
consists  of  Joseph  and  Emma,  the  father  and 
mother ;  three  sons,  Joseph  A.,  Frederick  John, 
and  Herbert ;  and  six  daughters,  the  following 
four  of  whom  were  at  home:  Sarah  E.,  Alice 
May,  Caroline  E.,  and  Annie,  the  latter  of  whom 
will  have  been  married  to  a  gentleman  in  Liver- 
pool before  this  recital  is  in  print.  During  my 
stay  here,  I  had  the  opportunity  of  partaking  of 
the  hospitality  of  an  aristocratic  English  host  and 
hostess,  without  being  compelled  to  endure  the 
austerity  and  ceremony  usually  attending  social 
distinctions.  Punctual  in  business  ;  rigid,  y^t  riot 
bigoted,  in  morals;  freedom  in  conversation,  and 


Il8  NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

showing  much  latitude  in  the  direction  of  inno- 
cent mirth  and  amusement,  the  members  of  this 
family  most  happily  impressed  me — indeed,  1  do 
,not  remember  ever  having  met  a  family  with 
whom  greater  sunshine  lingered.  I  consider  it 
one  of  the  fortunate  events  of  my  life  to  have 
partaken  at  the  hospitable  board  of  this  family 
for  six  days.  No  other  remuneration  was  coun- 
tenanced than  our  sincere  thanks. 

The  train  being  ready  I  started  for  Winchester, 
where  I  arrived  in  due  season.  This  city  con- 
tains only  15,000  inhabitants  ;  yet  has  a  history  as 
old  and  quite  as  interesting  as  London.  Winches- 
ter must  have  been  founded  by  some  of  the  Celt- 
ic tribes,  long  before  the  Christian  era ;  but  has 
no  certain  history  until  the  Belgic  invaders  made 
it  the  capital  of  South  Britain,  about  200  years 
before  Christ.  After  the  departure  of  the  Romans 
it  became  the  chief  city  of  England.  In  the  year 
519,  A.  D.,  when  Cedric,  the  Saxon,  was  crowned 
here,  it  became  the  capital  of  the  West  Saxon 
Kingdom.  The  victorious  descendants  of  Cedric 
made  it  the  capital  of  all  England,  which  it  con- 
tinued to  be  until,  perhaps,  the  twelfth  century. 
It  was  here  that  Alfred  the  Great  was  crowned ; 
after  which  it  became  the  seat  of  the  chief  courts 


WINCHESTER.  II9 

of  the  realm  ;  Emma,  Hardicanute,  and  Edward 
the  Confessor  were  crowned  here.  William  the 
Conqueror  spent  Easter  here,  and  his-  son,  Wil- 
liam Rufus,  was  buried  at  this  place.  At  Win- 
chester, Henry  II.  got  his  wife,  and  Henry  III. 
was  born.  Edward  I.,  with  Queen  Eleanor, 
visited  this  place  on  their  return  from  Palestine. 
Henry  IV.  came  here  with  his  bride,  and 
Henry  V.  at  this  place  received  the  last  am- 
bassador from  France.  Henry  VI.  made  fre- 
quent visits,  and  Henry  VII.  brought  his  queen 
here  to  give  birth  to  the  son  who  should  revive 
the  remembrance  of  Prince  Arthur.  Henry  VIII. 
visited  Winchester,  in  company  with  Charles  V., 
and  caused  Prince  Arthur's  table  to  be  painted 
anew.  Good  Queen  Bess  also  made  an  excur- 
sion down  here.  The  state  trials  and  execu- 
tions which  followed  the  supposed  conspiracy 
of  Walter  Raleigh,  made  Winchester  famous. 
Charles  I.  paid  one  visit  in  royal  state,  another 
while  a  prisoner,  and  to  the  honor  of  the  old  citi- 
zens their  mournful  welcome  of  the  fallen  king 
should  be  remembered.  It  is  said  that  through- 
out the  wars,  Winchester,  the  old  capital  of  En- 
gland, was  as  staunch  for  the  king  as  the  new 
was  for  his  opponents.     Charles   II.,  under   the 


120      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

direction  of  Sir  Christopher  Wren,  commenced 
the  erection  of  a  palace  at  this  place,  which 
was  never  completed.  Here  ended  the  con- 
nection of  Winchester  with  royalty  and  English 
history.  One  of  the  old  gates,  and  traces  of  the 
ancient  wall,  in  a  perfect  state  of  preserva- 
tion, still  remain,  which  serve  to  illustrate  the 
plan  of  an  ancient  city.  Passing  through  the  gate 
and  along  the  wall,  we  reach  Durugate  Mill,  which 
stands  near  St.  Giles'  Hill.  It  first  appears  in  his- 
tory as  the  place  of  execution  of  Waltheof,Earl  of 
Northumberland,  A.  D.  1069.  William  the  Con- 
queror granted  to  Bishop  Walkin  the  right  to 
hold  a  fair  on  this  hill.  The  guide  who  led  me  up 
the  terraced-like  road,  until  we  reached  the  sum- 
mit, informed  me  that  we  were  now  near  the  spot 
where  Cardinal  Wolsey  had  his  residence.  With 
our  surroundings  the  reader  will  at  once  see  that 
it  is  not  surprising  why  an  unsophisticated  Ameri- 
can, visiting  England,  should  take  Winchester  in 
his  route.  Friday,  December  nth,  I  returned  by 
railway  to  London,  obtaining  on  the  way  a  distant 
view  of  Windsor  Castle,  the  place  where  Queen 
Victoria  sometimes  resides.  1  regret  not  having 
had  the  time  to  obtain  a  better  view  of  the  same? 
On  arriving  at  London,  I  proceeded  immediately 


ST. -GILES'   HILL.  121 

to  visit  the  most  remarkable  building  in  England, 
and  perhaps  the  most  renowned  in  the  world — 
Westminster  Abbey — an  account  of  which   ap- 
pears in  the  next  chapter. 
6 


CHAPTER   XII. 

BACK  TO  LONDON — WESTMINSTER  ABBEY — WHAT 
ADDISON  SAYS  OF  IT — GOLDSMITH'S  OPINION 
OF  IT — THE  AUTHOR'S   COMMENTS. 

IN  my  last  I  promised  a  description  of  West- 
minster Abbey ;  but  as  the  most  profound 
literary  men  of  modern  ages  have  written  of  its 
associations,  poets  sung  its  praises,  and  orators 
of  no  ordinary  power  for  the  last  eight  centuries 
have  gained  the  highest  inspiration  from  their 
observation  within  these  walls ;  I  may  well  ask 
myself  the  question:  How  dare  I  walk  in  the 
footsteps  of  these  ancient  worthies,  much  less 
undertake  to  describe  what  they  were  loth  to  do? 
Westminster  Abbey  was  first  erected  by  King 
Sebert  on  "  Thorny  Island,"  a  spot  overgrown 
with  thorns,  west  of  London,  in  A.D.  616;  and 
from  its  locality  on  the  river  Thames  as  well  as 
its  direction  from  the  city,  it  was  called  West 
Monastery,  to  distinguish  it  from  St.  Paul's,  or 
what  was  then  called  East  Monastery  or  East- 

(122) 


WESTMINSTER  ABBEY.  1 23 

minster.     As  the  population  increased  so  as  to 
form  two  separate  towns  around  these   monas- 
teries, the  names  gradually  became  contracted  to 
West  and  East  minster,  which  ancient  towns  form 
two  of  the  most  interesting  parts  of  London  at 
the  present  time.     There  are  few  persons  who 
visit  London  who  do  not  go  to  see  Westminster 
Abbey.    Indeed  its  great  antiquity,  together  with 
its  associations  with  the  distinguished  names  re- 
corded  there,  and  the  illustrious  persons  buried 
there,  render  it  one  of  the  most  solemn  and  in- 
teresting   monuments   of   ancient    and    modern 
times.     It  is  the  pride  of   England,  and   Great 
Britain  claims  it  as  the  monument  of  her  power. 
Its  intimate  connection  with  the  history  of  the 
world  for  the  last  eight  centuries,  gives  it  a  char- 
acter above  all  other  institutions.     I  am  not  in- 
clined to  give  England  all  the  right,  title,  and 
claim  to  this  renowned  building.     It  is  true  that 
Milton,  Dryden,  Shakespeare,  Watts,  and  other 
distinguished  poets  who  contributed  so  much  to 
the  celebrity  of  Poet's  Corner,  were  Englishmen; 
but  when  we  reflect  that  their  works  have  been 
disseminated    throughout  the   world,  that  their 
poetry  is  sung  wherever  Christianity  is  preached  ; 
that  the  productions  of  Shakespeare  are  sought 


124  NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN   EUROPE. 


by  the  civilized  world,  it  will  scarcely  be  con- 
ceded that  England  is  entitled  to  an  indefeasible 
right  in  all  their  glory.  Westminster  Abbey, 
with  its  memories  and  associations,  is  the  pride 
of  the  world.  The  first  church,  erected  by  King 
Sebert,  was  afterward  destroyed,  and  the  next 
edifice  was  erected  by  Edward  the  Confessor,  in 
A.D.  1055-1065.  The  Pyx  house,  no  feet  long,  is 
all  that  now  remains  of  this  structure.  Henry 
III.,  in  1220,  built  the  principal  part  of  the  present 
existing  abbey.  The  west  front  and  its  great 
window  were  the  work  of  Richard  III.  and 
Henry  VII.,  which  completed  the  abbey,  as  it 
now  stands,  excepting  the  two  western  towers, 
which-  were  the  ,work  of  Sir  Christopher  Wren. 
It  will  be  seen  from  this,  that  the  abbey  is  the 
growth  of  several  hundred  years  ;  in  fact,  of  near- 
ly one  thousand.  So  antiquated  is  this  institution 
in  many  respects,  that  it  almost  appears  to  be  a 
part  of  the  works  of  creation.  More  than  four 
centuries  ago  it  was  visited  by  men  for  the  same 
inspiration  that  it  is  to-day.  It  was  an  old  abbey 
then  ;  it  is  scarcely  more  to-day.  It  is  true  that  in 
the  last  300  years  many  new  vaults  have  become 
the  receptacles  of  illustrious  dead;  many  new 
names  in  solemn  epitaphs  are  inscribed  upon  its 


WESTMINSTER   ABBEY.  1 25 

walls,  which  add  to  its  awe-inspiring  power ;  but 
its  walls  speak  the  same  language  now  that  they 
did  then.  Alexander,  500  years  before  the  Chris- 
tian era,  visited  the  ruins  of  Troy  to  gain  heroic 
inspiration,  it  being  an  ancient  ruin  then  ;  so  many 
of  the  immortals  whose  names  are  inscribed  with- 
in the  abbey,  visited  it  centuries  ago,  and  formed 
thoughts  that  gild  the  pages  of  history  in  letters 
of  living  light.  Addison,  than  whom  none  is 
more  graceful  and  true,  as  a  literary  genius  as 
well  as  a  Christian  philosopher,  in  a.d.  171  i 
wrote:  "  When  I  am  in  a  serious  humor,  I  very 
often  walk  by  myself  in  Westminster  Abbey, 
where  the  gloominess  of  the  place  and  the  use  to 
which  it  is  applied,  with  the  solemnity  of  the 
building,  and  the  condition  of  the  people  who 
live  in  it,  are  apt  to  fill  the  mind  with  a  kind  of 
melancholy,  or  rather  thoughtfulness  that  is  not 
disagreeable.  When  I  look  upon  the  tombs  of 
the  great,  every  emotion  of  envy  dies  in  me ; 
when  I  read  the  epitaphs  of  the  beautiful,  every 
inordinate  desire  goes  out;  when  I  meet  with 
the  grief  of  parents  on  a  tomb-stone,  my  heart 
melts  with  compassion ;  when  I  see  the  tomb  of 
the  parents  themselves,  I  consider  the  vanity  of 
grieving  for  those  whom  we  must  quickly  follow. 


126      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

When  I  see  kings  lying-  by  those  who  deposed 
them  ;  when  I  consider  rival  wits  placed  side  by 
side,  or  the  holy  men  that  divided  the  world 
with  their  contests  and  disputes,  I  reflect  with 
sorrow  and  astonishment  on  the  little  compe- 
titions, factions,  and  debates  of  mankind  ;  when 
I  read  the  several  dates  of  the  tombs  of  some 
that  died  yesterday,  and  some  600  years  ago,  I 
consider  that  great  day,  when  we  shall  all  be  co- 
temporaries,  and  make  our  appearance  together." 
A  few  years  later  Goldsmith  wrote :  "I  am 
just  returned  from  Westminster  Abbey,  the 
place  of  sepulture  for  the  philosophers,  heroes, 
and  kings  of  England.  What  a  gloom  the  monu- 
mental inscriptions,  and  all  the  venerable  remains 
of  deceased  merits,  inspired  !  Imagine  a  temple 
marked  with  the  hand  of  antiquity,  solemn  as 
religious  awe,  adorned  with  all  the  magnificence 
of  barbarous  profusion,  dim  windows,  fretted  pil- 
lars, long  colonnades,  and  dark  ceilings.  Think, 
then,  what  were  my  sensations  at  being  intro- 
duced to  such  a  scene !  I  stood  in  the  midst  of 
the  temple,  and  threw  my  eyes  around  the  walls 
filled  with  statues,  the  inscriptions  and  monu- 
ments of  the  dead.  Alas !  I  said  to  myself,  how 
does  pride  attend  the  puny  child  of  dust  even  to 


WESTMINSTER   ABBEY.  1 27 

the  grave!  Even  humble  as  I  am,  I  possess  more 
consequence  in  the  present  scene  than  the  greatest 
hero  of  them  all !  They  have  toiled  for  an  hour  to 
gain  a  transient  immortality,  and  are  at  length 
retired  to  the  grave,  where  they  have  no  at- 
tendant but  the  worm,  none  to  flatter  but  the 
epitaph." 

Joseph  Addison  is  remembered  in  Poets' 
Corner  with  a  full-length  statue,  holding  a  scroll. 
Books  are  strewed  at  his  feet,  and  around  the 
pedestal  are  the  nine  muses.  Near  this  is  a 
beautiful  tribute  to  Goldsmith,  in  the  shape  of  a 
medallion  profile.  There  are  a  number  of 
chapels ;  one  of  the  first  is  that  of  Henry  VII. 
This  contains  ail  that  remains  of  Mary,  Queen  of 
Scots,  Henry  VII.,  Queen  Elizabeth,  Caroline, 
and  many  other  kings,  queens,  and  princes.  The 
next  chapel  that  interested  me  was  that  of  Ed- 
ward the  Confessor.  This  contains  the  sarcoph- 
agus of  Edward  the  Confessor,  who  died  a.d. 
1065,  and  a  whole  line  of  English  kings  and 
queens  down  to  Richard  II.  Having  passed 
through  the  different  apartments,  taken  a  view 
of  the  chair  in  which  the  kings  and  queens  are 
crowned,  I  made  my  exit,  feeling  strangely 
solemn  after  a  few  hours  among  the  tombs  of  the 


128  -    NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

illustrious  dead.  Language  affords  no  adequate 
means  to  give  a  more  eloquent  and  glowing  de- 
scription than  has  already  beetr  given  by  others 
who  have  gone  before.  I  may,  then,  well  pause 
and  ask  myself,  what  can  I  say  that  would  con- 
tribute an  atom  of  praise  to  this  great  monument 
of  antiquity,  where  rival  kings,  statesmen,  poets, 
and  literary  geniuses  lie  side  by  side,  and  be- 
headed monarchs  are  in  close  proximity  to  their 
now  harmless  but  once  merciless  persecutors,  all 
silent  in  death  ?  The  abbey  has  been  for  ages, 
and  is  now,  the  "  great  magazine  "  in  England 
for  the  preservation  of  the  mortal  part  of  her 
most  illustrious,  and  it  has  become  one  of  the 
chief  pillars  in  literature.  We  deem  it  not  an  ex- 
aggeration to  say  that  when  the  dust  of  the  en- 
tombed dead  that  lie  here  shall  have  even  per- 
ished ;  yea !  when  the  sarcophagi  shall  have 
moldered  to  powder,  and  long  after  England's 
distinctive  form  of  government  shall  have  ceased 
to  exist,  Westminster  Abbey  and  its  associations 
will  blaze  on  the  pages  of  future  history  as  it  has 
glittered  in  the  past. 


CHAPTER    XIII. 

A  PORTER  FOUND — THE  RIVER  THAMES — TOWER 
OF  LONDON— WHITE  TOWER — ROYAL  JEWELS, 
ETC. 

AS  we  departed  from  the  door  of  Westmin- 
ster Abbey  and  turned  our  eyes  to  take  a 
last  lingering  look  upon  its  ancient  walls  and 
Gothic  spires,  and  on  the  old  stone  steps  worn  by 
the  tread  of  philosophers,  statesmen,  poets,  kings, 
etc.,  for  more  than  eight  hundred  years,  many 
historical  recollections  were  forced  upon  my 
mind  which  can  never  be  erased.  After  a  stroll 
through  the  abbey  it  is  not  strange  that  the  in- 
quiry should  be,  "  Where  shall  I  go  next  ?  "  My 
watch  told  me  it  was  just  two  o'clock  p.m.  (about 
breakfast-time  in  Chicago).  I  had  no  sooner 
reached  the  street  from  the  abbey  than  a  porter, 
who  told  me  he  had  been  born  and  raised  in  the 
city  of  London,  and  to  add  to  his  importance  on 
this  occasion,  had  been  a  newsboy,  informed  me 
that  perhaps  the  next  most  interesting  place  to 
6*  (129) 


130  NOTES   OF  TRAVEL  IN   EUROPE. 

an  American  would  be  the  Tower.  Having 
sympathy  for  newsboys,  and  knowing  well  that 
they  could  do  what  anybody  "else  could,  I  took 
him  at  his  word.  Placing  a  half-crown  in  his 
hand  he  immediately  informed  me  that  "  tup- 
pence "  would  provide  a  conveyance  to  the 
nearest  landing  on  the  river  Thames ;  the  Tower 
,  being  just  three  miles  down  the  river  from  the 
abbey.  Soon  we  were  on  board  an  omnibus; 
in  five  minutes  more  at  the  landing,  and  just  in 
time  to  miss  the  first  boat  going  in  our  direction. 
This  gave  me  five  minutes  to  view  the  Thames. 
The  water  has  the  appearance  of  that  of  the 
Mississippi ;  its  curreqt  and  width  at  this  point 
are  not  very  unlike  East  River,  New  York.  The 
many  historical  incidents  that  rush  into  the 
memory  from  the  time  since  the  ancient  Celt, 
Gaul,  and  Briton,  with  their  small  craft;  the 
Romans,  Greeks,  and  Phoenicians,  with  their 
boats,  rowed  up  and  down  this  river,  and  even 
since  St.  Paul  made  his  first  trip  up  to  London, 
render  it  attractive,  whatever  may  be  its  appear- 
ance. The  docks  are  floating,  and  on  them  are 
erected  substantial  buildings  wherein  many  peo- 
ple reside.  The  difference  between  low  and 
high  tide  is  eleven  feet.     One  hour  in  the  day       3 


•THE  TOWER   OF   LONDON.  131 

we  would  suppose  we  were  passing  through  a 
well  built-up  street  ;  at  another  hour  in  the  day 
we  find  it  floating  low  in  the  current  of  the  river. 
The  Thames  is  the  noblest  river  in  England,  and 
is  said  to  be  the  most  useful  in  Europe,  and  the 
most  important  commercial  river  in  the  world. 
Perhaps  if  the  one  who  said  this  had  seen  the 
Amazon  of  South  America,  he  would  not  have 
made  the  remark. 

Tickets  were  purchased  for  "  tup-pence  " 
apiece  (about  equal  to  four  cents),  and  myself 
and  the  porter  were  soon  on  board.  In  a  few 
minutes  the  landing  was  announced,  and  a  gen- 
eral rush  made  for  the  wharf ;  I  believe  my 
porter  was  about  the  first  on  land,  and  soon 
wending  his  way  through  several  narrow, 
crooked  streets,  at  such  a  pace  that  it  was 
difficult  for  me  to  keep  my  eye  on  him.  After 
several  minutes,  putting  his  hand  up,  with  an  air 
of  victorious  assumption  even  greater  than  that 
of  Columbus  when  he  discovered  America,  or 
that  of  De  Soto  when  he  first  saw  the  u  Father 
of  Waters,"  he  exclaimed  :  "  There  is  the  Tower !  " 
1  wish  I  had  not  forgotten  his  name,  that  he  might 
go  down  to  posterity  as  one  of  the  most  gallant 
leaders  I  ever  saw.     It  would  appear  that  the 


132      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

city  of  London  was  but  a  small  portion  of  his 
dominion,  and  that  for  further  conquest  he  would 
have  fully  equaled  Xerxes  in  his  descent  upon 
the  three  hundred  brave  Spartans  at  the  Pass  of 
Thermopylae. 

To  the  right  of  us  and  the  south-west  of  the 
Tower  was  a  brick  building,  I  think,  in  which  I 
was  informed  that  a  ticket  of  admission  to  the 
armory  and  jewel-house  could  be  had  for  one 
shilling.  Leaving  the  porter  without  the  gates  I 
hastened  to  the  office  to  procure  a  pass  that 
would  enable  me  to  see  one  of  the  most  remark- 
able structures,  when  its  bloody  history  is  con- 
sidered, in  the  world.  Behind  the  counter  (I 
don't  know  what  they  call  it  here)  stood  a 
wise-looking  man,  called  the  chamberlain.  I  ad- 
dressed him,  "  Sir,  I  desire  to  visit  the  Tower." 

Said  he :  "  The  Tower  is  closed,  and  there  will 
be  no  more  visitors  admitted  to-day." 

Having'  learned  that  the  time  for  admitting 
visitors  closed  at  four  o'clock  P.M.,  I  inquired 
what  time  it  was,  and  was  informed  that  it  just 
lacked  thirty  minutes  till  four,  and  as  the  time 
was  near  up  and  the  day  dark  and  foggy,  and  no 
lights  allowed  in  the  building,  it  would  be  en- 
tirely useless  to  go  in,  and  so  he  refused  to  sell 


THE   TOWER   OF   LONDON.  1 33 

me  a  ticket.  Becoming  anxious,  I  insisted  that  I 
had  come  some  distance,  and  did  not  expect 
another  opportunity  soon  ;  I  remarked  I  must 
see  the  Tower  at  all  hazards.  During  the  con- 
troversy with  the  chamberlain  several  other 
strangers  came  in,  also  seeking  for  admission. 
This  appeared  to  be  in  my  favor;  for  the  cham- 
berlain now  informed  me  that  if  I  would  take  my 
own  risk  (which  I  assured  him  I  would  do),  he 
would  let  me  go  through.  This  was  joyous 
news  to  me.  At  this  moment  a  stalwart-looking 
man  appeared,  who,  from  the  style  of  badges  and 
his  broad  sword  and  buckler,  I  took  to  be  a  sort 
of  executioner.  Assuming  a  wonderful  dignity 
and  savage  look,  he  remarked  :  w  Gentlemen,  I 
have  killed  more  men  than  any  other  person  in 
England  ;  I  can  take  you  through  the  Tower  if 
you  must  go."  After  this  expression  from  him, 
I  was  confirmed  in  my  opinion  ;  but  as  I  had  to 
see  the  Tower,  I  resolved  to  go  with  the  half- 
dozen  others  who  had  arrived  for  the  same  object. 
Following  our  new  guide  we  were  soon  at 
Bloody  Tower,  which  is  the  main  entrance  to  the 
inner  ward  and  White  Tower.  Now,  again,  I 
was  doomed  to  disappointment.  In  place  of  one 
large  building  I   found  there  were  nineteen,  six 


134      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

of  which  are  on  the  bank  of  the  river  in  the  outer 
ward,  and  twelve  surrounding  the  inner  ward, 
the  White  Tower  forming  the  citadel  in  the  cen- 
ter of  the  ward.  The  ground  on  which  these 
ancient  buildings  are  erected,  is  an  eminence  on 
the  north  bank  of  the  river  Thames.  It  is  quad- 
rilateral in  form,  and  has  an  area  of  thirteen  acres. 
Surrounding  this  eminence  is  a  large  ditch,  which 
can  be  filled  with  water  from  the  river.  Between 
this  moat,  or  ditch,  and  the  river,  in  the  space 
called  the  outer  ward,  there  are  six  towers,  named 
Middle,  Byward,  St.  Thomas,  Cradle,  Well,  and 
Develin,  each  having  a  history  of  its  own,  and 
all  erected  during  the  reign  of  Henry  III.  about 
the  years  1216-72.  Surrounding  the  inner  ward 
are  twelve  towers,  named  respectively,  Bloody, 
Bell,  Beauchamp,  Devereaux,  Flint,  Boyer,  Brick, 
Jewel,  Constable,  Broad  Arrow,  Salt,  and  Record  ; 
and  in  the  center  of  the  inner  ward  is  the  White 
Tower.  Of  the  towers  of  the  outer  ward,  which 
is  now  immediately  to  our  right,  we  will  only 
notice  St.  Thomas.  This  forms  the  gateway  from 
the  river  to  the  prison,  and  is  called  the  Traitor's 
Gate,  through  which,  we  were  told,  when  prison- 
ers were  brought  they  never  returned.  We  were 
now  conducted  through  Bloody  Tower,  where  it 


THE  TOWER  OF   LONDON.  1 35 

is  said  the  two  sons  of  Edward  IV.  were  barba- 
rously murdered.  The  White  Tower  was  erected 
in  the  days  of  William  the  Conqueror,  by  Gun- 
dolph  Bishop,  of  Rochester.  It  measures  116 
feet  from  north  to  south,  ninety-six  feet  from  east 
to  west,  and  is  ninety-two  feet  high,  and  is  by  far 
the  most  important  building  within  the  inclosure, 
and  contains  the  Horse  armory,  and  the  armory 
room  of  Queen  Elizabeth.  Both  rooms  contain 
the  most  curious,  as  well  as  elegant  specimens  of 
coats  of  mail  of  different  Oriental  countries,  with 
figures,  some  on  foot  and  some  equestrian,  wear- 
ing suits- of  armor  from  the  time  of  Henry  VI., 
1422,  to  that  of  James  II.,  1685.  Prominent 
among  these  is  the  effigy  of  Henry  VIII.  on 
horseback,  with  armor  on,  which  was  presented 
to  him  on  his  marriage  to  Catharine  of  Arragon, 
by  the  Emperor  Maximilian.  This  would  indi- 
cate one  of  the  finest  specimens  of  the  ge?ius 
homo  the  world  has  ever  produced,  and  I  was 
told  that  this  was  a  likeness  of  that  cruel  tyrant 
of  history.  Near  by  this  effigy  is  the  black  axe 
and  the  block  on  which  Anne  Boleyn  was  de- 
capitated ;  both  fit  relics  of  the  deeds  perpetrated 
in  the  age  of  this  monarch.  Our  guide  in 
structed  us  not  to  touch  this  precious  furniture, 


I36      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

but,  notwithstanding  this  caution,  the  temptation 
became  irresistible,  and  I  could  not  help  lifting 
the  axe  and  feeling  the  block,  on  the  touch  of 
which  I  imagined  I  could  feel  the  crevice  made 
by  that  ugly  axe  that  placed  Anne's  head  upon 
one  side  and  her  lifeless  trunk  upon  the  other. 
To  the  opposite  of  these  relics  is  a  heavy  iron 
door.  This  was  opened  by  the  guide  with  a 
mammoth  key,  and  our  especial  attention  called 
to  it  as  the  dungeon  in  which  Sir  Walter  Raleigh 
was  incarcerated  for  eleven  years.  At  the  men- 
tion of  Raleigh's  name,  the  fatal  block  not  yet 
being  wiped  from  our  mind,  this  thought  "flashed  : 
"  What  terrible  newsrit  must  have  been  to  Ra- 
leigh when  it  was  announced  that  he  must  die. 
Here  our  guide  said  we  must,  of  course,  go  into 
the  dungeon,  and  no  sooner  had  he  spoken  the 
words  than  I  was  inside,  followed  by  the  others. 
On  entering  this  damp  place  the  guide  pulled 
the  iron  door  shut,  locked  it,  and  bid  us  good- 
night. Not  even  a  part  of  a  ray  of  light  was 
visible..  The  two  minutes  we  were  shut  in  this 
dungeon  rather  altered  my  sentiments  as  above 
indicated,  and  I  felt  it  must  have  been  a  grateful 
salutation  to  Raleigh  on'  awakening  from  his 
slumbers  in  such  a  dungeon,  to  hear  that  his  life 


THE  TOWER  OF  LONDON.  1 37 

was  about  to  be  terminated.  Quitting  this,  we 
passed  into  Queen  Elizabeth's  armory,  which 
contains  samples  of  the  various  implements  of 
warfare  used  in  her  reign.  At  the  end  of  this 
room  is  a  figure  representing  Queen  Elizabeth, 
mounted  on  a  carved  horse.  In  the  west  window 
we  noticed  a  cross-bow  used  in  the  time  of  Wil- 
liam the  Conqueror.  From  thence  we  were  con- 
ducted to  the  jewel  house,  and,  the  door  being 
opened,  we  were  met  by  an  elderly  lady,  whose 
business  it  was  to  receive  visitors  and  to  explain 
the  jewels  and  answer  any  questions  that  might 
be  put,  if  she  could.  She  seemed  to  have  com- 
mitted her  piece  well,  but  it  was  spoken  so  rap- 
idly that  here  is  all  we  remember:  "  The  jewels 
are  so  arranged  behind  a  screen  as  to  form  a 
pyramid,  the  crown  of  the  present  queen  form- 
ing the  apex.  This  is  of  gold,  beautifully  set 
with  diamonds,  and  cost  $15,000,000.  Another 
crown  is  that  of  St.  Edward,  and  near  it  his  staff 
of  solid  gold,  four  feet  seven  inches  long,  sur- 
mounted with  an  orb  said  to  have  been  taken 
from  the  true  cross  of  Christ.  St.  Edward's 
staff  is  carried  before  the  king  or  queen  on 
coronation  day,"  and  so  on. 

The  Tower  was  first  erected  for  a  fortification, 
and  afterward  as  a  prison  ;  but  at  present  it  is 


138      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

•v 

used  as  a  government  store-house.  The  jewels 
were  kept  in  Jewel  Tower  from  time  immemorial 
until  1842,  when  a  new  jewel  house  was  com- 
pleted, where  they  have  since  been  kept.  There 
are  no  epitaphs  or  monuments  erected  to  illus- 
trious dead,  and,  save  a  few  rude  inscriptions  cut 
in  rude  letters  by  some  unfortunate  prisoners 
themselves,  the  walls  are  naked.  If  not  held  as 
sacred  as  Westminster  Abbey,  the  Tower  has 
also  a  history  nearly  as  old.  The  former  illu- 
minates and  the  latter  darkens  the  pages  of  the 
world's  history. 

From  the  gloomy  walls  of  the  Tower,  rendered 
so  interesting  by  its  connection  with  history,  and 
attractive  by  modern  art,  we  took  our  departure, 
and  passing  through  the  barrack  noticed  a  large 
cannon  manufactured  by  the  heathen  Indian, 
which  compared  favorably  with  modern  imple- 
ments in  that  line  in  civilized  Europe.  Reach- 
ing the  street  I  found  the  porter  waiting  where  I 
had  left  him.  It  was  now  dark  and  raining,  and 
we  had  three  miles  to  go.  Following  him  through 
several  narrow,  winding  streets,  we  came  to  a 
restaurant,  where,  as  nature  demanded  some  re- 
freshment, we  entered,  and  after  partaking  of  a 
hearty  lunch,  I  requested  the  porter  to  take  me 
to  the  Alhambra. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

THE  ALHAMBRA — FRIGHTENED  PORTER — WHAT 
WE  SAW  AT  THE  ALHAMBRA — WHAT  WE  ES- 
CAPED,   ETC. 

THE  porter,  without  assigning  a  reason,  re- 
marked :  "  Don't  go  to  the  Alhambra,  the 
Royal  Halbert  'All  (Albert  Hall)  is  just  com- 
pleted, and  I  think  you  will  be  best  entertained 
at  the  Halbert  'All." 

As  I  did  not  care  about  the  burlesque  at  the 
Alhambra,  and  was  entirely  ignorant  of  the  char- 
acter of  opera  bouffe,  I  should  have  taken  the 
porter  at  his  word,  but  for  the  fact  that  a  friend 
had  specially  requested  me  to  visit  this  place,  and 
for  the  further  consideration,  that  T  had  never  in 
all  my  life  witnessed  a  ballet.  This  was  the  turn- 
ing point,  and  I  resolved  to  see  the  Alhambra. 
Every  attempt  of  the  porter  to  weaken  my  de- 
termination proved  in  vain.  Any  move  on  his 
part  to  elude,  only  strengthened  my  resolution, 
and  with    that  idea   in   view,   our  pace,   which 

(139) 


140      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

quickened  as  the  night  grew  darker  and  the  rain 
increased,  took  us  to  the  Alhambra  too  soon  for 
the  performance.  A  caf6  near  by,  and,  I  pre- 
sumed, on  the  spot  where  Home  Took's  father 
kept  a  poultry  yard,  was  sought  as  comfortable 
quarters  to  remain  until  the  opening  of  the 
theater.  I  had  no  hand  in  the  selection  of  a 
place,  but  had  confidence  in  my  guide  ;  and  what 
he  did  on  this  occasion  I  regarded  as  proper, 
and,  taking  our  seats,  I  imagined  we  had  found 
the  right  place  to  rest  our  somewhat  weary 
limbs.  It  is  customary  when  you  go  into  an  eat- 
ing-house in  Europe  to  buy  something  through 
courtesy  to  the  proprietor,  and  obedience  to  this 
established  rule,  called  for  a  pie,  which  we  did 
not  need  more  than  a  wagon  needs  five  wheels. 
While  sitting  and  trying  to  enjoy  the  extra 
lunch,  I  observed  the  porter  becoming  intensely 
nervous  and  frequently  casting  a  glance  toward 
a  suspicious-looking  individual  who  sat  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  room.  I  was  watching  the 
porter,  and  the  stranger  also,  but  neither  of  them 
knew  it.  My  guide  apparently  could  stand  it  no 
longer,  and  jumping  to  his  feet,  after  inquiring 
the  time  of  the  clock,  whispered  in  my  ear  these 
words  :  "  We  are  watched." 


THE  ALHAMBRA.  141 

Unconscious  of  having  committed  any  crime*, 
and  less  conscious  of  danger,  I  could  not  avoid 
becoming  indignant  when  I  thought  of  the 
whispered  words :  hence,  said  I  with  emphasis  : 

"  How,  and  for  what  are  we  watched  ?  We 
have  done  nothing  to  be  ashamed  of,  and  need 
have  no  fears." 

He  repeated  :  "  We  must  go !  " 

He  started  and  I  followed  him  to  the  door,  I 
wondering  what  mystery  should  soon  be  revealed. 
On  reaching  the  middle  of  the  street,  I  required 
an  explanation  of  his  very  singular  conduct,  and 
what  do  you  think  the  answer  was  ? 

"  We  are  watched." 

My  indignation  now  gave  way  to  anger,  and  I 
said,  *  If  you  are  a  thief  escaping  justice  that  is 
not  known  to  me ;  if  your  self-condemnation 
makes  the  officers  a  terror  to  you  I  can  not  help 
that;  for  myself  I  am  unconscious  of  having  done 
anything  to  render  me  amenable  to  law,  obnoxi- 
ous to  the  people,  or  afraid  of  the  officers — please 
show  me  the  Alhambra,"  which  he  did,  and  two 
tickets  for  the  dress-circle  were  purchased  at 
two  shillings  each,  and  we  were  soon  seated 
within  one  of  the  most  elegant  music-halls  with- 
in the  great  city.     Architecturally,  it  is  of  the 


142  NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

•  Moorish  style,  in  imitation  of  the  Alhambra  of 
Granada.  The  audience-room  will  comfortably 
seat  6,000  persons,  but  only  contained  about  600 
on  our  arrival.  In  a  few  minutes,  however,  the 
pleasure-seekers  came  rushing  in,  until  within 
half  an  hour  after  our  entrance  there  were  fully 
3,000  persons  present.  I  think  that  many  would 
have  answered  had  their  names  been  called  when 
the  curtain  raised  to  disclose  the  first  scene  in 
the  burlesque.  I  have  forgotten  the  name  of  the 
play,  but  remember  that  the  principal  character 
in  the  performance  was  a  dignitary  from  India, 
who  was  old,  infirm,  tattooed,  and  as  drunk  as 
Bacchus.  Another  prominent  character  was  a 
beautiful  English  lady,  who  sadly  neglected  her 
excellent  husband  to  do  homage  to  the  tattooed 
Indian,  because  he  was  a  dignitary  at  home.  I 
also  noticed  that  brains  and  high  culture  were 
not  shown  to  advantage,  while  quite  a  number 
of  parties  without  either,  and  whose  only  merit 
was  beauty  of  form,  spared  no  pains  to  show 
their  fine  points.  This  was  carried  to  such  an 
.extent  as  to  receive  a  severe  rebuke  from  the 
London  Times  next  morning.  How  unlike  Amer- 
ica, thought  I,  where  beauty  and  modesty  so 
frequently  go  together,  and  brains  and  culture 


THE  ALHAMBRA.  I43 

often  drive  both  men  and  women  to  the  front.  I 
attribute  this  seeming  inconsistency  to  the  dis- 
tinguished bard  whose  remarkable  tendency  to 
shrink  from  the  public  gaze  is  stamped  upon  the 
English  character.  To  say  the  least,  there  was 
considerable  human  nature  in  the  play  ;  but  I  was 
so  determined  to  see  the  ballet,  that  to  me  it  had 
little  attraction.  There  was  a  little  episode  in 
the  entertainment  worth  telling,  I  think.  A 
gentleman,  or  one  whom  we  call  such,  well- 
dressed,  about  thirty-five  years  of  age,  had  on  an 
untarnished  silk  hat;  he  was  rather  good-looking, 
but  from  his  awkward  gait  and  slight  swaggering 
manner,  we  took  him  to  be  a  little  intoxicated. 
In  this  I  may  have  been  mistaken.  Well,  he 
stepped  down  into  the  dress-circle,  took  a  seat 
in  close  proximity  to  myself,  and  rendering  him- 
self very  familiar,  struck  me  a  light  tap  with  his 
elbow,  at  the  same  time  looking  me  in  the  face 
with  a  side  glance,  remarked :  "  They  say  the 
Alhambra  is  the  greatest  place  in  London."  I 
answered  "  Yes,"  very  quietly.  He  then  at- 
tempted to  enter  into  conversation  with  me,  and 
it  was  with  the  greatest  difficulty  I  could  avoid 
being  disagreeable,  half  believing  that  I  was  in 
juxtaposition  with  a  grand  scoundrel  of  some 


144      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 


sort.  Yet  I  kept  a  close  watch  upon  the  actors 
while  he  was  trying  to  point  out  the  features  of 
the  building  and  the  merits  of  the  play.  The 
sangfroid  manner  on  my  part  was  more  than  my 
porter  on  my  left,  could  stand,  and  said  he: 
"  Let  us  go."  Said  I :  "  I  propose  to  stay  to 
see  the  ballet,  if  it  will  not  render  it  too  late." 
Said  he :  H  You  don't  care  anything  about  it ;  it 
is  only  a  dance  by  a  lot  of  young  ladies."  "  Well," 
said  I,  "  wait  till  half-past  nine  o'clock,  and  if 
they  do  not  then  come  to  the  ballet  I  will  go 
with  you."  "  All  right,"  said  he.  At  this  point 
in  the  play  the  Indian  prince  came  in  drunk 
again,  and  the  nobles,  ladies,  and  princes  paid 
their  attentions  to  him.  Indeed,  a  duke's  wife 
had  the  audacity  to  hug  and  kiss  this  old  black, 
drunken,  tattooed  Indian.  I  had  really  just  be- 
gun to  see  the  point  in  the  play,  when  the 
stranger  at  my  right  pointed  to  the  stage  and 
leaned  toward  me  to  call  my  attention  to  some 
special  attraction,  when  my  porter  became  nerv- 
ous. In  fact,  this  was  more  than  he  could  stand. 
He  jumped  up  and  deliberately  took  his  seat  be- 
tween us  and  said :  "  You  don't  care  about  this 
play ;  let  us  go."  "  But,"  said  I,  "  we  must  see  the 
ballet."     I  don't  know  whether  the  play  stopped 


THE  ALHAMBRA.  1 45 

during  the  interim  of  five  minutes,  for  I  scarcely 
looked  that  way  any  more,  but  looking  around  I 
saw  the  eyes  of  the  audience  upon  us.  Having 
done  nothing  to  merit  such  notice,  I  unconscious- 
ly, as  it  were,  held  my  head  up,  and  sat  boldly 
erect.  After  a  minute  or  so  looking  around  to 
my  right,  I  found  that  the  stranger  had  sunk  in 
his  seat,  then  gathering  himself  up  he  stole  out 
of  the  circle,  the  eyes  of  the  audience  upon  him, 
until*he  had  disappeared  in  the  crowd  behind. 
The  porter  again  insisted  that  I  must  go.  Said 
he :  "  You  are  watched."  Becoming  impatient 
with  his  repeated  solicitations,  disgusted  with 
the  burlesque,  and  almost  forgetting  that  in  an 
hour  more  the  ballet-dance  would  take  place,  I 
consented,  and  arm-in-arm  we  started,  the  porter 
continually  looking  to  the  right  and  left  in  great 
agitation,  while  I  could  not  help  but  smile  at  the 
scene.  Gaining  the  street  the  nervous  porter 
said  :  "  I  would  prefer  not  to  walk  home  with 
you.  Get  a  cab  which  will  take  you  to  the  hotel 
for  one  shilling."  Taking  my  seat  in  the  cab,  the 
gallant  porter  demanded  another  half-crown, 
which,  after  some  hesitation,  I  paid.  He  now 
seemed  to  be  happy,  and  I  drove  off  to  the 
hotel,  and  retired  to  my  room,  there  to  meditate 
7 


146      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

whether  I  had  actually  been  beset  with  despera- 
does, or  whether  this  was  a  trick  of  the  porter 
to  get  double  wages  for  his  day's  work.  This  I 
have  not  yet  decided  ;  but  I  do  know  that  I  have 
just  as  much  knowledge  now  of  a  ballet-dance 
as  I  had  in  the  first  year  of  my  childhood. 


* 


CHAPTER  XV. 

PALACE  OF  WESTMINSTER — HOUSE  OF  COMMONS — 
WESTMINSTER  HALL— CRYSTAL  PALACE — EGYP- 
TIAN  COURT — LINCOLN'S   INN. 

SATURDAY,  December  12th.— Somewhat 
amused,  but  more  disgusted,  with  the  ex- 
perience of  yesterday  at  the  Alhambra,  it  will 
not  appear  strange  that  I  should  spend  this  day 
amid  scenes  of  a  different  character.  As  "  too 
great  familiarity  breeds  contempt,"  so  "  gravity 
succeeds  mirth,"  and  "disgusting  scenes  impel 
to  nobler  acts."  The  homely  maxims  had  more 
than  usual  force  with  me  to-day.  I  concluded 
to  visit  the  two  Houses  of  Parliament — which,  I 
learned,  occupied  a  part  of  what  is  now  called 
the  New  Palace  of  Westminster. 

The  national  council  of  the  British  Isles  was 
not  in  session,  both  Houses  having  been  pro- 
rogued until  February,  1875.  How  I  did  wish 
her  Majesty  would  call  a  special  session  for  my 
benefit,  that  I  might  gratify  my  vanity  "in  behold- 
ing the  chief  dignitaries  of  the  realm.     I  never 

(147) 


I48  NOTES  OF  TRAVEL    IN    EUROPE. 

could  have  had  such  exalted  ideas,  but  for  the 
fact  that  accident  had  brought  me  in  contact 
with  Mr.  David  Chad  wick,  the  member  of  Par- 
liament from  Manchester,  whose  "  big  heart " 
prompted  him  to  say  :  M  If  you  will  call  at  my 
office,  No.  66  Moorgate  Street,  when  Parliament 
is  in  session,  I  will  take  pleasure  in  conducting 
you  through  both  Houses,  introducing  you  to 
the  members  thereof."  I  presume  he  had  heard 
me  say  before  this  that  it  was  not  possible  for 
me  to  remain  until  that  time.  I,  at  all  events, 
declined  this  proffered  honor,  not  forgetting, 
however,  to  thank  him,  and  his  equally  generous 
colleague,  Mr.  Crossley,  from  Lancashire,  for  the 
condescension,  and  yielding  the  pleasure  of  wit- 
nessing the  Assembly  of  Great  Britain— not  will- 
ingly, but  on  the  principle  that  what  can  not  be, 
ought  not  to  be. 

I  started  on  foot,  and  in  less  than  an  hour  was 
passing  to  the  right  of  the  Peers'  entrance,  when 
my  friendly,  but  somewhat  excitable,  porter,  ap- 
peared and  proffered  his  assistance  to  show  me 
through.  This  offer  \  failed  to  regard  favorably, 
and  entering  the  chamberlain's  office,  was  handed 
a  pass,  and  informed  that  I  was  now  at  liberty  to 
view  the   Palace  without  paying  for  the  luxury. 


THE   PALACE    OF   WESTMINSTER.  1 49 

In  a  few  minutes  I  was  in  the  House  of  Com- 
mons, which  is  a  room  forty-five  feet  wide  by 
seventy-five  feet  long,  and  forty-five  feet  high  to 
the  ceiling,  with  seats  arranged  to  face  the 
Speaker's  chair,  which  is  at  the  north  end  of  the 
room,  and  bears  England's  coat-of-arms.  I  now 
looked  for  the  woolsack,  but  found  occupying  its 
place  the  table  so  rudely  handled  by  Cromwell. 
Passing  from  this  into  and  through  various  apart- 
ments open  to  the  public,  a  room  was  entered 
ninety  feet  in  length,  forty-five  in  height,  which 
I  regarded  as  gorgeous,  if  not  perfect,  in  its  pro- 
portions and  decorations,  but,  perhaps,  would 
not  have  known,  had  I  not  been  told,  that  this 
was,  without  doubt,  the  finest  specimen  of 
Gothic  architecture  in  Europe.  The  windows 
are  all  filled  with  stained  glass,  with  figures  rep- 
resenting the  kings  and  queens,  from  William 
the  Conqueror  to  William  IV.  At  the  south 
end  of  the  room  is  the  throne  of  Great  Britain, 
which  .was  approached  without  the  formality  of 
bowing,  kneeling,  or  taking  off  hats.  The  cen- 
tral portion  of  the  throne  is  elevated  three  steps, 
and  the  sides  two,  and  covered  with  a  carpet  of 
the  richest  velvet,  the  ground  of  which  is  a 
bright  scarlet  interwoven  with  roses  and  lions 


ISO  NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

alternately.  In  the  center  is  the  queen's  chair, 
which  in  outline  is  similar  to  that  used  for  the  cor- 
onation, but  its  ornaments  and  decorations  will 
at  once  cause  the  observer  to  point  this  out  as  her 
Majesty's  State  chair.  The  one  on  the  right 
hand  of  this  is  reserved  for  the  Prince  of  Wales, 
and  that  on  the  left  for  the  late  Prince  Consort ; 
the  whole  being  covered  by  a  gilded  canopy 
with  appropriate  insignia,  producing  an  effect 
for  richness  and  grandeur  beyond  conception. 
The  room  is  called  the  House  of  Lords. 

Leaving  this,  we  were  conducted  to  Westmin- 
ster Hall,  the  aula  regis  of  history,  the  traditions 
of  which  were  the  chief  cause  of  selecting  this 
site  for  the  new  palace,  and  are  scarcely  less  in- 
teresting, the  abbey  excepted,  than  any  other 
ancient  building  in  London.  This  hall  was  first 
built  by  William  II.,  usually  called  William 
Rufus,  in  the  year  1097,  for  a  banqueting  hall. 
In  1299  the  hall  was  seriously  injured  by  fire, 
but  restored  to  its  present  beauty  by  Richard  II., 
whose  deposition  was  the  first  public  act  after  its 
restoration.  Its  length  is  290  feet ;  width,  68  feet, 
and  height,  90  feet.  The  roof  which  spans  the 
hall,  and  has  stood  for  five  hundred  years,  is  con- 
structed with  great  mechanical  skill,  and  hardly 


THE   PALACE   OF  WESTMINSTER.  151 

surpassed  by  any  work  of  the  present  age.  On 
New  Year's  day,  1236,  Henry  III.  feasted  six 
thousand  people  in  this  place.  From  the  year 
1224  to  the  present  time,  a  period  of  nearly 
seven  hundred  years,  the  law  courts  of  England 
have  been  held  there,  but  are  soon  to  be  re- 
moved to  some  new  buildings  erected  near 
Lincoln's  Inn.  Could  these  old  walls  talk, 
what  a  story  they  would  tell !  In  this  hall 
Cromwell  was  installed  Lord  Protector,  and  a 
few  years  later,  his  own  head  was  exposed  on  a 
pole.  Here  Sir  Thomas  More  was  condemned 
to  die  ;  here  the  murderers  of  Charles  I.  sat  in 
judgment  upon  that  monarch,  who  but  a  short 
time  before  witnessed  here  the  trial  and  sentence 
of  his  faithful  friend,  Stafford.  These  same  walls 
witnessed  the  sentence  of  Warren  Hastings,  and 
the  coronation  feast  of  George  IV.  The  last 
great  lawsuit  was  the  Tichborne  trial,  known 
throughout  the  world.  How  long  this  hall  shall 
yet  stand  to  register  incidents  and  events,  or 
how  many  deeds  of  atrocity  it  shall  yet  reveal, 
is  not  known  to  the  writer. 

As  sight-seers,  like  pleasure-hunters,  are  never 
satisfied,  on  leaving  the  ancient  hall  of  West- 
minster, I  followed  the  guide,  who  led  the  way 


152      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

into  St.  Stephen's  Hall ;  that  would  have  little 
interested  me  had  I  not  been  informed  that  this 
stood  on  the  site  of,  and  was  of,  the  same  dimen- 
sions as  St.  Stephen's  Chapel,  which  had  the  fol- 
lowing history  connected  with  it : 

"  It  was  founded  by  King  Stephen  as  the 
chapel  of  the  Royal  Palace  somewhere  in  the 
eleventh  or  twelfth  century ;  was  rebuilt  by  Ed- 
ward II. r  A.D.  1330,  in  the  rich  architecture  of 
that  period,  and  is  said  to  be  cotemporary  with  St. 
Chappelle,  of  Paris,  both  having  been  built  for 
the  benefit  of  the  royal  families,  and  were  at- 
tached to  the  palaces  of  the  sovereigns.  For 
several  centuries  this  hall  had  been  appropriated 
to  the  use  of  Parliament,  but  scarcely  any  of  its 
original  beauty  survived  the  great  fire  of  1834." 

Underneath  this  hall  I  was  conducted  into  St. 
Stephen's  Crypt,  which  is  eight  hundred  years 
old,  retains  its  original  beauty,  and  must  have 
been  built  at  or  about  the  same  time  of  St. 
Chappelle,  of  Paris.  We  came  to  this  conclu- 
sion from  the  fact  that  they  both  look  alike.  Mr. 
Pettigrew,  a  distinguished  antiquarian,  dug  out 
of  a  recess  in  one  of  these  walls  a  body,  which, 
upon  examination,  appeared  to  be  as  soft  and 
natural  as  life ;  yet,  from  the  name  and  date  en- 


LINCOLN  S   INN.  1 53 

graved  on  the  sarcophagus,  it  must  have  lain 
there  for  more  than  four  hundred  years.  The 
body  was  identified  as  that  of  Stephen  Lynd- 
wode,  Bishop  of  St.  David's,  Keeper  of  the  Privy 
Seal  to  Henry  VI.,  and  must  have  died  about  the 
year  1446,  some  thirty  years  before  Columbus 
discovered  America.  I  concluded  that  a  great 
imposition  had  been  practiced  on  Mr.  Pettigrew, 
or  that  the  English,  like  the  Egyptians,  once  had 
an  art  of  embalming  now  lost  to  the  world.  So 
positive  was  the  English  nation,  however,  that 
this  was  the  body  of  the  chancellor  to  Henry  VI., 
that  it  was  removed  to  the  abbey  "  for  a  more 
decent  burial  "  among  the  distinguished  histo- 
rians, poets,  and  statesmen  of  the  kingdom.  If 
the  incredulous  reader  will  go  to  Westminster 
Abbey  he  will  now  find  Stephen  Lyndwode 
numbered  among  the  illustrious  dead  buried 
there. 

From  the  crypt  we  started  toward  our  hotel 
through  Chancery  Lane — and  from  the  numerous 
solicitors'  signs  and  law  offices  and  gentlemen  with 
wigs  and  togas  observed  in  this  lane,  I  felt  assured 
that  in  a  technical  and  legal  (if  not  moral)  sense. 
it  was  properly  named.  I  had  scarcely  noted 
this  fact-  before  my  attention  was  called  to  Lin- 
7* 


154  NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN   EUROPE. 

coin's  Inn,  which,  with  its  extensive  square,  gar- 
dens, halls,  and  temples,  should  be,  to  the  legal 
fraternity  at  least,  one  of  the  most  interesting 
places  in  London.  But  at  this  day  a  man 
among  the  multifarious  robed  and  wigged  barris- 
ters, would  scarcely  think  of  Sir  William  Black- 
stone,  much  less  of  the  Inns  of  Court  so  famous 
and  popular  in  the  days  of  Sir  Francis  Bacon 
and  his  contemporaries.  This  inn  was  so-called 
by  the  Earl  of  Lincoln,  who  built  a  stately  man- 
sion here  in  the  latter  part  of  the  thirteenth  cen- 
tury. Its  chief  interest,  at  the  present  day,  may 
be  attributed  to  its  associations  with  legal  lore, 
its  beautiful  gardens,  and  the  Lincoln's  Inn  Fields, 
where  were  the  residences  of  Lords  Erskine, 
Kenyon,  Sommers,  Spenser,  Mansfield,  Thurlow, 
Sir  Thomas  More,  Oliver  Cromwell,  and  many 
other  distinguished  Englishmen. 

The  most  interesting  of  the  Inns  of  Court  is 
the  Temple.  This  is  so  called  from  the  Knights 
Templar  who  removed  hither  from  Holborn  in 
1 174.  These  few  observations  completed  our 
tour  for  this  day,  and  we  returned  to  a  hotel. 

At  the  present  day  the  Temple  contains  a 
royal  library,  and  is  used  to  qualify  men  for 
practicing  before  the  various  courts  in  the  king- 


CRYSTAL  PALACE.  1 55 

dom.  Members  of  the  Temple  have  full  author- 
ity to  say  who  shall  and  who  shall  not  practice 
law  in  Great  Britain ;  and  whosoever  is  pro- 
hibited from  membership  in  the  Temple,  is  also 
disqualified  as  a  barrister  before  the  courts;  and 
many  men  distinguished  for  their  legal  learning 
and  force  of  character  are  made  to  feel  the  force 
of  this  power,  of  whom  the  late  Mr.  Kenealiy 
is,  perhaps,  the  last  illustrious  example. 

December  13th  being  Sunday,  1  rested,  as  most 
Londoners  do.  The  streets  are  as  quiet  as  in 
Plymouth,  Ind.  There  seems  to  be. nothing  to 
break  the  monotony  except  an  occasional  tramp 
of  an  army  of  children  passing  to  and  from  Sun- 
day-school. These  children  were  well  clad,  and 
looked  cheerful  and  intelligent.  I  think  there  is 
no  place  in  the  world  where  children  are  better 
cared  for  than  in  London,  especially  boys. 

On  December  14th,  a  visit  to  the  Crystal 
Palace  was  considered  in  order,  and  for  that  pur- 
pose my  porter  was  on  hand  precisely  at  eight 
o'clock  a.m.,  to  show  the  way.  Proceeding  im- 
mediately to  Victoria  Station,  we  took  the  train, 
and  in  a  few  minutes  were  at  the  eighth  wonder 
of  the  world.  Presenting  our  tickets,  which  we 
had  purchased  beforehand  at  two  shillings  and 


156  NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

sixpence  apiece,  the  gates  were  opened  and 
we  were  shown  down  a  long  colonnade,  which 
leads  to  the  Egyptian  Court,  which  contains  the 
most  perfect  specimens  of  Egyptian  architect- 
ure and  art  of  the  time  of  Rameses  the  Great, 
twelve  hundred  years  before  Christ,  and  until 
Ptolemy  V.,  two  hundred  years  B.C.  Here  are 
evidences  that  this  ancient,  but  now  almost  ex- 
tinct, race  had  attained  a  high  degree  of  civiliza- 
tion. 

The  visitor  will  next  be  conducted  through  the 
Greek  and  Roman  courts,  where  can  be  seen  the 
most  remarkable  specimens  of  Grecian  and  Ro- 
man art.  A  room  is  allotted  to  the  production 
of  ancient  and  medieval  periods  of  every  coun- 
try, as  well  as  of  the  isles  of  the  ocean.  The 
marine  aquarium  contains  130,000  gallons  of  sea 
water  and  a  curious  collection  of  various  sea  ani- 
mals. The  industrial  department  reveals  the 
finest  specimens  of  art  of  every  country  and 
nation  in  the  world.  The  numerous  illustrations 
of  extinct  animals  furnish  a  better  study  for  the 
zoologist  than  the  British  Museum  itself.  In 
the  various  departments  of  this  inclosure  may  be 
found  groups  of  life-like  statuary,  representing 
families    of   different    nationalities,   savage    and 


THE   CRYSTAL   PALACE.  1 57 

civilized,  with  specimens  of  art  surrounded  by 
the  natural  scenery  of  the  country. 

A  family  of  Fiji  Islanders,  surrounded  with  the 
tropical  plants  and  scenery  of  those  islands,  will 
at  once  convey  the  traveler  thither  without  the 
necessity  of  a  voyage.     The  group  of  Sandwich 
Islanders  will  conduct  you  to  Honolulu  in  one 
minute.    In  fact,  in  three  hours  in  this  palace,  an 
observer    can   visit    China,   Japan,   the    various 
countries  of  Asia  and  Africa,  and  obtain  a  fair 
knowledge  of  the  different  races.     I  speak  from 
experience.      One  should  not  omit  to  notice  the 
beautiful  park,  with  its  fountains  and  decorations, 
which  surrounds  the  building.     The  innumerable 
specimens  of  nature  and  art  here,  and  the  palace 
itself,  are  so  remarkable  as  alone  to-  be  worth  a 
visit  to  Europe.     That  the  reader  may  have  a 
faint  idea  of  its  size,  I  here  give  the  statement  of 
Mr.  Shenton  in  his  "  Guide  to  the  Palace :  "  "  The 
whole  length  of  the  main  building  is  1,608  feet, 
and  the  wings  574  feet  each,  making  a  length  of 
2,756  feet,  which,  with  the  720  feet  in  the  colon- 
nade leading  from  the  railway  station  to  the  wings, 
gives  a  total  length  of  3,476  feet,  or  nearly  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  of  ground,  covered   with   a 
transparent  roof  of  glass.      The  total  length  of 


158      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

columns  employed  in  the  construction  of  the 
main  building  and  wings  would  extend,  if  laid  in 
a  straight  line,  a  distance  of  16%  miles.  The 
total  weight  of  iron  used  in  the  main  building 
and  wings  amounts  to  9,641  tons  and  I7cwt.  1 
quarter.  The  superficial  quantity  of  glass  used 
is  25  acres,  and  weighs  500  tons — if  the  panes 
were  laid  side  by  side,  they  would  extend  to  a 
distance  of  48  miles  ;  if  end  to  end,  to  the  almost 
incredible  length  of  242  miles." 

To-morrow  we  start  for  the  Continent. 


CHAPTER   XVI. 

ABOARD   FOR  PARIS— CHISELHURST — DOVER — EN- 
GLISH  CHANNEL— CALAIS— AMIENS— PARIS. 

TUESDAY  morning,  December  15th,  at 
precisely  a  quarter  to  eight,  I  was  seated 
in  the  cars  at  Victoria  Station,  London,  awaiting 
the  sound  of  the  whistle  which  was  to  notify  all 
on  board  that  in  a  few  minutes  the  train  would 
start  for  Dover,  and  likewise  to  inform  those  not 
on  board  that  it  is  their  duty  to  be  there  forth- 
with. It  is  not  unusual  at  this  critical  moment 
to  see  some  confusion  among  those  who  are  a 
little  late — have  forgotten  something,  or  have  left 
their  valuables,  and  are  in  doubt  as  to  whether 
the  railroad  company  will  accommodate  them  by 
keeping  the  train  and  the  rest  of  the  passengers 
waiting  until  they  perform  that  which  ought  to 
have  been  done  an  hour  before ;  but  nothing  of 
this  kind  was  apparent  here.     The  only  incident 

(159) 


l6o  NOTES   OF  TRAVEL  IN   EUROPE.     ■• 

occurring  which  contributed  to  the  amusement 
of  the  lookers-on  was  a  gentleman  to  my  left  in 
the  car,  and  another  outside,  of  different  nation- 
alities, in  a  boisterous  conversation.  Neither 
•seemed  to  understand  the  other;  but,  from  the 
expression  of  their  countenances  and  movements 
of  their  limbs,  both  were  evidently  contending" 
for  the  same  seat,  the  one  claiming  by  right  of 
occupancy  and  the  other  by  right  of  purchase  ; 
but  just  as  the  gentleman  outside  seemed  about 
to  procure  an  ejectment  without  first  obtaining  a 
writ,  the  guard  settled  the  matter  by  informing 
the  gentleman  inside  that  he  had  been  imposed 
upon,  and  that  he  could  find  a  seat  in  another  car 
which  would  be  just  as  comfortable.  This  had 
the  desired  effect,  and  the  one  inside,  with  a 
smile  on  his  countenance,  immediately  took  his 
valise  in  hand  and  departed  for  another  car,  and 
the  confidence  man  occupied  the  vacated  seat.  It 
is  unnecessary  to  say  that  this  was  a  mere  trick  on 
the  part  of  the  guard  to  settle  a  dispute  between 
two  parties  who  could  not  do  it  for  themselves. 

The  whistle  now  indicated  that  all  was  ready, 
and  we  were  on  the  road  to  Dover,  stopping  a 
short  time  at  Chiselhurst.  There  is  nothing  re- 
markable about  the  latter  place  other  than  the 


DOVER.  l6l 

wild  and  picturesque  appearance  of  the  country 
surrounding",  and  the  further  fact,  that  when 
Paris  became  too  hot  for  Napoleon  III.,  this 
place  became  his  temporary  residence,  and  is 
now  the  residence  of  the  Empress.  Within 
three  miles  of  Dover  two  tunnels  are  passed 
through,  one  being  one  and  a  quarter  and  the 
other  one  mile  in  length,  reminding  us  somewhat 
of  the  tunnel  through  the  Alleghany  mountains, 
only  that  it  is  longer.  On  emerging  from  the  sec- 
ond tunnel  the  traveler  gets  the  first  glimpse  of 
Dover,  rendered  memorable  by  its  being  the 
place  where  Julius  Caesar  attempted  to  land  his 
army  on  his  first  invasion  of  Great  Britain.  In 
modern  times  it  is  celebrated  as  being-  the  chief 
port  of  communication  between  England  and 
the  continent.  Our  time  at  this  point  was  too 
short  to  permit  a  visit  to  the  old  castle,  which 
is  east  of  Dover,  the  erection  of  which  was  com- 
menced in  the  Roman  age.  The  boat  which  was 
to  take  us  across  the  English  Channel  was  await- 
ing the  train,  and  passengers  and  baggage  were 
soon  transferred,  and  all  moving  in  the  direction 
of  Calais. 

I  took  my  position  on  the  deck,  and  entered 
into  conversation  with  a  gentleman  who  said  he 


l62      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

was  from  Boston,  had  been  traveling  eighteen 
months  at  an  expense  of  five  thousand  dollars, 
and  had  six  months  of  sea-sickness.  Having  my- 
self made  one  trip  around  the  lakes  in  America, 
and  one  voyage  across  the  Atlantic,  without  be- 
ing more  than  introduced  to  this  much-to-be- 
dreaded  malady,  I  had  gained  confidence  in  my- 
self to  reply  that  I  thought  the  will  had  much  to 
do  with  sea-sickness,  and  all  that  was  needed  to 
prevent  it,  in  most  cases,  was  a  little  resolution. 
Scarcely  had  these  words  escaped  me  when  my 
new-made  Boston  acquaintance  deliberately  com- 
menced imitating  a  sick  patient  treated  by  a 
botanic  physician  to  a  heavy  dose  of  lobelia.  On 
looking  around  I  saw  most  of  the  .passengers 
going  through  the  same  gestures.  Fearing  that 
I  might  give  offense,  and  almost  losing  confidence 
in  the  philosophy  I  advanced,  the  subject  was 
changed.  It  is  strange,  though  not  infrequent, 
that  the  strongest  faith  is  sometimes  shaken 
under  peculiar  circumstances.  However,  I  en- 
tered the  port  at  Calais,  safe,  without  being 
doomed  to  the  experience  of  most  persons  cross- 
ing the  Straits.  Here,  for  the  first  time  in  my  life, 
I  fully  realized  the  fact  of  being  in  a  foreign 
land.     New  manners,  new  customs,  new  people, 


CALAIS.  163 

and,  in  fact,  a  new  atmosphere  opening  up  to 
view. 

On  stepping  ashore  in  France  a  man  asked  me, 
"  What  name  ?  "  Supposing  him  to  be  a  custom- 
house officer,  I  told  him,  and  he  laughed.  No- 
ticing that  he  exercised  some  muscles  of  the  face 
that  people  do  in  Indiana  when  they  are  pleased, 
it  really  pleased  me,  although  I  felt  provoked 
afterward  by  my  credulity.  In  a  few  minutes  I 
was  aboard  a  French  car  destined  for  Paris,  and 
having  now  lost  all  trace  of  any  one  I  had  ever 
seen  or  heard  of,  I  amused  myself  for  a  short 
time  viewing  the  car,  which  I  found  to  be  very 
similar  in  construction  to  those  in  England, 
and  very  much  like  the  American  stage-coacli. 
The  material  used  in  the  upholstering  was  of  a 
quality  to  render  it  more  comfortable  than  the 
public  vehicles  to  which  we  Americans  are  ac- 
customed ;  but,  as  in  England,  there  are  no  stoves 
set  in  them  for  heating.  It  is  customary  to  carry 
rugs  and  overcoats  in  winter  traveling,  of  which 
two  strangers  in  the  same  car,  and  my  only  com- 
panions, had  an  abundant  supply.  Cosily  en- 
sconced, we  were  soon  upon  our  journey — such  a 
one  as  I  have  never  had  the  pleasure  of  enjoying 
before. 


164      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

I  found  one  of  my  companions  a  cultured 
gentleman,  and  minister  to  China,  and  the  other 
a  leading  military  officer  who  was  returning  to 
his  post  at  Malta,  after  a  furlough  of  some  days. 
Both  companions  vyere  possessed  of  a  rich  fund 
of  information,  which  they  spread  out  to  ad- 
vantage and  to  my  entire  satisfaction,  until 
Amiens  was  announced  by  a  voice  which  could 
not  be  mistaken  for  a  Frenchman. 

Amiens  is  an  ancient  city,  situated  on  the  river 
Somme,  seventy  miles  north  of  Paris,  and  is  most 
noted  for  its  great  cathedral,  commenced  a.d. 
1220,  and  completed  in  1288,  and  which  is  said  to 
be  the  most  magnificent  in  Europe. 

It  was  at  Amiens  that  Peter  the  Hermit  was 
born  in  the  year  1050.  Here  I  learned  that  there 
was  an  opportunity  to  obtain  refreshments,  and, 
stepping  out  of  the  cars  into  an  eating-house, 
called  here  a  restaurateur,  I  obtained  that  which 
most  resembled  an  apple  fritter  in  America,  but 
much  more  delicious  and  larger.  I  thought  it 
the  best  lunch  I  had  ever  eaten.  When  the  re- 
past was  finished  I  made  no  inquiries,  but  draw- 
ing some  English  pennies  from  my  pocket,  the 
lady  in  charge  remarked,  "  Dix  centimes,"  equal 
to  two  sous,  or  two  cents,  for  which  she  accepted 


PARIS.  165 

an  English  penny.  Astonished  at  the  excellence 
and  cheapness  of  the  fare,  I  should  have  returned 
to  my  car  satisfied  that  France  was  the  best  and 
cheapest  place  to  live  in  the  world,  so  far  as  I 
have  seen  the  world,  and  should  have  returned 
home  with  the  same  notion,  had  it  not  been  for 
the  everlasting  dread  of  horse  meat. 

In  less  than  two  hours  we  reached   Paris.     It 
was  then  about  10  o'clock  at  night,  and,  as  usual 
in  passing  from  one  country  to  another,  we  were 
run  into  the  custom-house,  where  all  our  trunks 
had  to  be  submitted  to  a  careful  scrutiny.     Hav- 
ing passed  the  French  role,  a  gate  was  opened, 
and  I  passed  out.     I  knew  it  to  be  a  gate  from 
first  meeting  with  resistance  and  afterward  with 
a  free  exit.     I  could  not  have  known  it  in  any 
other  way,  for  not  a  man  was   there  now   that 
could    utter  anything  but  the  aspirated  French 
language,  my  quondam  companions  having  been 
passed  out  before.     An  omnibus  was  in  waiting, 
which  I  stepped  into.     I  could  tell  this  from  the 
voice  of  the  drivers,  for,  1  believe,  that  like  the 
famous  barn-fowl  whose  crowing  is  the  same  in 
India,  China,  and  America,  so  the  business  voice 
is  the  same,  whether  it  is  in  Chicago,  New  York, 
London,  Paris,  or  Yokohama.  Seated  now,  the  at- 


l66  NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN   EUROPE. 

tendant  at  the  back-door  of  the  vehicle  stepped 
forward  and  said  :  "  Un  franc."  I  said,  "  Grand 
Hotel."  Finding  the  carriage  would  not  move,  I 
handed  him  a  Napoleon,  a  gold  coin  equal  to  four 
dollars,  which  was  the  only  French  coin  I  had  ; 
in  a  few  minutes  he  returned  with  my  change,  re- 
taining one  extra  franc  for  his  trouble,  and  I  was 
then  rapidly  conveyed  to  the  Grand  Hotel,  No. 
12  Boulevard  des  Capucins,  Paris.  The  car- 
riage, or  omnibus,  drives  into  the  ground  floor 
of  the  hotel,  where  you  dismount,  register,  en- 
gage rooms,  have  baggage  taken  care  of,  step 
into  an  elevator  and  go  to  your  apartment,  and 
telegraph  for  what  you  Want.  I  telegraphed  for 
supper,  which  was  prepared  at  the  grand  cafe  in 
twenty  minutes.  But  the  gorgeously  furnished 
room  had  not  the  effect  to  erase  from  the  mind 
the  idea  of  horse-flesh,  and  I  partook  of  a  light 
supper,  returned  to  my  room,  where  I  retired 
behind  the  silken  curtains  of  a  satin-covered  bed. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

PARIS — MADELEINE— RUE  DE  RIVQLI — LOUVRE — 
PLACE  DE  LA  CONCORDE — CHAMPS  D*  ELYSEES 
—  ARC  DE  TRIOMPHE  —  TUILLERIES  —  NOTRE 
DAME. 

ON  the  following  morning  I  arose  much  re- 
freshed, partook  of  an  early  breakfast, 
returned  to  my  room,  found  a  guide-book  of  the 
city  and  card  with  compliments  of  the  proprietor 
of  the  Grand  Hotel ;  but  on  opening  it  found,  to 
my  chagrin,  that  it  was  written  in  the  French 
language,  and  hence  was  at  a  loss  to  know  pre- 
cisely what  to  do.  Returning  to  the  street  floor 
of  the  hotel  to  get  some  information  as  to  how 
one  day  could  be  expended  in  the  city  to  the 
best  advantage,  I  met  a  porter,  known  in  Paris 
as  a  commissionaire,  who  could  speak  fluently 
the#English,  French,  and  German  languages,  who 
informed  me  that  he  would  show  me  around. 
Having  now  secured  a  guide,  I  informed  him 
that  the  first  place  on  my  programme  was  the 

(167) 


1 68  NOTES  OF  TRAVEL    IN    EUROPE. 

Madeleine.     This  grand  structure  is  of  Grecian 
architecture,  and  with  its  colonnade  of  fifty-two 
Corinthian  columns  and  the  entablature  and  ceil- 
ing richly  adorned  with  elaborate  sculpture,  at 
once  impresses  the  visitor  with  historical  recol- 
lections of  the  temples  of  Theseus  and  Minerva 
at  Athens.     The  entrance  is  reached  by  a  flight 
of  twenty-eight  stone  steps,  extending  the  whole 
length  of  the  facade.     On  entering  this  edifice, 
the  eye  of  the  stranger  is  bewildered  with  the 
richness  of  the  wall,  and  the  paintings.     At  each 
corner  and  in  front  of  the  altar,  on  a  pedestal, 
there  kneels  an  archangel  in  prayer.     As  we  ap- 
proached this  sacred  shrine,  and  were  near  the 
archangel  on  the  right,  an  aged  devotee  arose 
from  his  devotions ;  his  grave  and  dignified  man- 
ner and  whitened  locks  lent  enchantment  to  the 
sacred  altar.     The  Madeleine  is  not  usually  the 
first  place  visited  by  strangers,  but  as  it  was  but 
a  short  distance  from  our  hotel,  the  guide  also 
suggested  that  as  the  starting  point.     Not  satis- 
fied with  the  traditions  of  the   Madeleine  as  re- 
ceived from  my  companion,  I  sought  the  Galig- 
nani    Library,    No.  224  Rue    de   Rivoli,    where, 
from  Galignani's  "  Paris  Guide,"   a  book  which 
every  one  visiting  Paris  ought  to  buy    I  found 


> 

n 


o  Jf 


> 

>  > 


n 


THE   MADELEINE.  1 69 

that  the  Madeleine  is,  since  the  beginning  of  the 
thirteenth  century,  the  fourth  church  erected  on 
this  site. 

The  present  magnificent  structure  was  com- 
menced in  1764,  by  Constant  d'  Ivry,  and  con- 
tinued by  Couture.  The  revolution  of  1789  sus- 
pended the  works  until  Napoleon  I.  directed  Vig- 
non  to  complete  it  for  a  Temple  of  Glory.  In 
1845,  Louis  XVIII.  restored  it  to  its  original  de- 
sign, and  decreed  that  it  should  contain  monu- 
ments to  Louis  XVI.,  Marie  Antoinette,  Louis 
XVII.  and  Mademoiselle  Elizabeth.  It  was  fin- 
ished under  Louis  Philippe  by  M.  Huve.  This 
edifice,  the  total  cost  of  which  amounted  to  13,- 
079,000  francs,  stands  on  an  elevated  basement 
138  by  328  feet. 

The  impression  \nade  upon  the  visitor  differs 
materially  from  that  made  upon  entering  St.  Paul's 
at  London.  In  the  latter  the  hand  of  the  great 
modern  architect  has  well-nigh  obscured  the 
ancient  Norman  features,  and  in  the  former  the 
ancient  Greek,  no  doubt  by  them  borrowed  from 
Egypt,  have  been  carefully  preserved.  This  was 
Napoleon's  great  work  in  adding  to  the  beauty 
of  Paris,  Napoleon  sleeps  the  sleep  of  death, 
and  is  shorn  of  all  power,  but  in  this  edifice  much 


170      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

of  his  glory  remains.  The  Rue  de  Rivoli  is  a 
great  artery  extending  from  the  Place  de  la  Bas- 
tile,  a  distance  of  two  miles,  and,  like  Oxford 
Street  in  London,  furnishes  a  guide  to  the  stranger. 
On  this  is  situated  the  Palace  and  Garden  of  the 
Tuilleries,  Place  Napoleon  III.,  Place  du  Carousel, 
and  Palais  du  Louvre,  all  memorable  in  history. 
This  is  a  beautiful  street,  and  aside  from  the  real 
palaces,  the  hotels  and  business  houses  thereon 
are  royally  adorned. 

The  Louvre  contains  the  museum  of  Greek 
and  Roman  Antiquities,  and  collections  from  all 
parts  of  the  world.  In  the  collection  of  statuary, 
we  noticed  Powers'  original  Greek  Slave,  so 
world  renowned.  The  museum  did  not  quite 
equal  the  British ;  but  the  gallery  of  paintings 
at  the  Louvre  is  not  equaled  elsewhere  on  earth. 
The  room  containing  the  paintings  is  called  the 
Galerie  d'  Apollon  and  was  appropriated  to  its 
present  use  in  1787.  This  is  184  feet  in  length, 
and  28  feet  in  width.  Here  is  the  grandest  dis- 
play of  paintings  from  the  old  masters  known  to 
man,  many  of  the  pictures  having  been  purchased 
at  fabulous  prices.  My  guide  informed  me  that 
one  picture  from  Raphael  Lanzio,  1483,  cost  $30,- 
000.     Here  the  glory  of  Italy  shines  through  the 


THE  LOUVRE.  1^1 

canvases  of  Paolo  Correggio,  Guercino,  Carracci, 
#Tintoretti,  Sarto,  Vinci,  and  Raphael,  whose 
-skillful  hands  ceased  to  ply  the  pencil  more  than 
300  years  ago.  Spain  is  honored  by  the  work  of 
Murillo;  Belgium,  through  Van  Dyk,  Rubens, 
and  Dow.  Holbein,  in  his  portrait  of  Erasmus, 
will  be  recognized  by  every  German,  and  France 
is  adorned  by  her  own  Poussin  and  Le  Sceur. 
The  fascinating  effect  produced  by  the  display  of 
artistic  merit  in  this  gallery  can  never  be  wholly 
erased  from  the  mind. 

An  occasional  vacant  place  occurs  among  the 
paintings  on  the  walls,  and  upon  inquiring  as  to 
the  cause,  I  was  informed  that  these  vacancies 
were  once  occupied  by  portraits  of  Napoleon  III. 
which  had  been  executed  by  eminent  artists,  and 
that  the  frenzy  of  the  Commune  would  not  per- 
mit a  portrait  of  that  unfortunate  monarch  to  re- 
main visible  anywhere.  No  words  were  too 
strong  for  my  guide  to  use  in  expressing  his  con- 
demnation of  the  work  of  the  Commune,  or  for 
his  admiration  of  the  fallen  monarch.  He  en- 
deavored to  impress  upon  me  that  the  liberties 
of  the  French  people  were  better  protected  un- 
der the  rule  of  Napoleon  III.  than  under  the 
Government  of  Thiers.     Verily,  thought  I,  the 


172  NOTES   OF  TRAVEL  IN   EUROPE. 

French  must  be  a  rash  as  well  as  peculiai  people ; 
but  as  I  looked  upon  the  massive  brows  of  a  num- 
ber of  leading  men,  whose  very  countenances 
sparkled  with  great  genius,  I  could  not  but  con- 
clude that  if  at  this  hour  the  Government  was  in 
a  critical  situation,  it  was  not  for  want  of  ability, 
but  rather  because  of  the  many  conflicting  ele- 
ments to  be  reconciled. 

The  love  of  liberty  is  as  plainly  stamped  upon 
the  Frenchman's  face  as  upon  the  American,  and 
if  he  should  ever  lose  it,  it  will  not  be  for  want 
of  courage.     The  French  are  a  brave  people. 

After  viewing  the  Louvre,  and  with  the  mind 
lingering  upon  the  magnificent  works  of  the 
artist,  I  reluctantly  took  my  leave  and  proceeded 
to  the  Place  de  la  Concorde  via  the  Rue  de  Riv- 
oli.  This  beautiful  square  was  once  adorned  with 
a  statue  in  honor'of  Louis  XIV. ;  but  by  order  of 
the  legislative  Assembly  in  1792,  it  was  melted 
and  molded  into  cannon  and  two-sou  pieces ;  a 
statue  of  liberty  was  made  of  plaster,  and  erected 
upon  the  pedestal,  and  in  front  a  guillotine  was  es- 
tablished, and  the  square  called  Place  deta  R6vo- 
lution.  In  1800  it  was,  by  a  decree  of  the  Assem- 
bly, named  Place  de  la  Concorde,  as  now.  Aside 
from    the  beautiful   fountains  which    adorn    this 


THE   PLACE   DE    LA   CONCORDE.  1 73 

spot,  memorable  to  every  Frenchman  as  well  as 
historical,  here  stands  the  Obelisk  of  Rameses 
III.  of  ifce  18th  Egyptian  dynasty;  better  known 
in  history  as  the  great  Sesostris.  This  monolith 
is  said  to  be  seventy-two  feet  and  three  inches 
high,  seven  feet  six  inches  square  at  its  base,  and 
five  feet  four  inches  square  at  its  top.  The  Obe- 
lisk is  formed  of  the  finest  red  syenite,  and  cover- 
ed on  each  face  with  three  lines  of  hieroglyphic 
inscriptions  commemorative  of  Sesostris.  That 
is  what  Galignani  says.  I  find  that  it  requires 
some  credulity  to  get  information,  otherwise  I 
might  have  regarded  this  as  a  Cardiff  giant  im- 
position. To  the  east  and  along  the  banks  of  the 
River  Seine,  is  the  Champs  Elys6es,  through 
which  a  beautiful  avenue  of  the  same  name  passes 
and  extends  to  the  Arc  de  Triomphe  de  V  Etoile, 
which,  though  one  mile  distant,  is  plainly  to  be 
seen  from  this  grand  promenade.  The  Champs 
Elys6es  is  now  the  fashionable  resort,  and  has 
been  for  the  last  century. 

Standing  on  the  Avenue  des  Champs  Elysees, 
surrounded  with  fountains  adorned  with  water 
nymphs  and  dolphins,  held  by  as  many  Tritons 
and  Nereids,  the  column  of  Rameses  to  the 
left,   the   Triumphal  Arch   to  the  right,  as  you 


174      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

glance  with  the  eye  you  have  in  mind  the  long 
interval  of  4,000  years,  from  Sesostris  the  Great, 
in  whose  time  Egypt  was  in  the  zenim  of  her 
glory,  to  Napoleon  I.,  who  marched  triumphantly 
into  Paris,  and  was  accorded  the  emperor's  crown. 
What  memories  crowded  the  imagination ! 
What  kingdoms,  despotisms,  and  republics  came 
before  the  mind.  The  moss-covered,  weather- 
beaten  pyramid  of  Sesostris,  and  the  obelisk  of 
Luxor  now  before  us,  are  but  fragments  of  that 
Egyptian  civilization.  Since  that  monolith  was 
taken  from  the  quarry  and  the  1,600  hieroglyphic 
characters  were  carved  upon  it  by  the  skillful  hand 
of  the  Egyptian  engraver,  Cadmus  invented  and 
carried  the  alphabet  to  Greece,  and  there  a  gov- 
ernment was  established,  which  for  poetry,  states- 
manship, philosophy,  architecture,  and  oratory, 
is  unrivaled  even  at  the  present  time.  Yet  that 
era  of  Grecian  enlightenment  was  more  than 
2,000  years  ago.  The  government  of  the  Romans, 
which  flourished  for  1,400  years,  and  1,800 
years  ago  was  mistress  of  the  world,  is  only 
known  in  history.  On  the  fragments  of  these 
have  risen  and  fallen  other  nationalities,  until  the 
civilization  of  the  eighteenth  and  nineteenth  cen- 
turies has  eclipsed  them  all. 


TRIUMPHAL    ARCE     OF    L'ETOILE. 


THE  CATHEDRAL  OF  NOTRE  DAME.  1 75 

The  dynasty  of  Sesostris  passed  away  thou- 
sands of  years  ago,  and  the  great  Napoleon  lies 
powerless  in  death  ;  but  in  the  obelisk  the  splen- 
dor of  the  former  gleams,  and  in  the  Triumphal 
Arch  the  glory  of  the  latter  appears.  With  these 
pleasant  reflections  I  returned  along  the  quay  of 
the  Tuilleries  and  the  Louvre  to  the  Boulevard 
de  Sebastopol.  This  gave  me  a  fine  view  of  the 
noble  Seine,  which  has  coursed  its  way  through 
the  city  for  nineteen  centuries.  I  had  also  a  fine 
view  of  the  garden  and  palace  of  the  Tuilleries. 
This  palace  is  inscribed  on  almost  every  page  of 
the  history  of  the  Revolution  of  179 1.  It  con- 
tinued to  be  the  Imperial  residence  until  recently. 
It  was  set  on  fire  by  the  Commune  in  May,  1871. 
Crossing  the  river  to  La  Cite  gave  me  the  oppor- 
tunity of  visiting  the  cathedral  of  Notre  Dame. 
The  precise  date  of  this  grandest  of  ail  grand 
edifices  of  old  Europe  is  unknown. 

There  was  evidently  a  temple  erected  here  in 
the  time  of  the  Romans,  or  shortly  after  Julius 
Caesar  visited  the  place.  History  records  that 
on  this  site  a  church  was  erected  to  St.  Stephen 
in  the  time  of  Valentine  I.,  A.D.  365,  and  rebuilt 
by  Childebert  in   522.      Robert,   son   of  Hugh 


176  NOTES   OF  TRAVEL   IN   EUROPE. 

Caput,  about  A.D.  1000,  undertook  its  reconstruc- 
tion, and  the  first  stone  was  laid  by  Pope  Alex- 
ander III.  The  altar  was  consecrated  in  1182, 
and  in  1185  it  was  occupied  for  the  first  time  as 
a  church  by  Heraclius,  a  crusader,  who  preached 
in  it.  I  have  no  doubt  but  that  his  was  the  dedi- 
catory service  of  the  then  New  Mother  Churchr 
now  a  wonder  of  modern  times.  The  west  front 
was  finished  in  1223,  and  the  southern  transept 
in  1257.  The  northern  transept  was  completed 
in  1312.  The  interior  works  of  the  choir  were 
began  in  1699,  and  completed  in  17 14.  The 
height  is  135  feet;  the  length,  390  feet;  the  width 
at  transept,  144  feet;  height  of  vaulting,  102  feet, 
and  the  height  of  western  towers,  204  feet.  The 
ground  plan  is  cruciform,  and  will  contain  an 
audience  of  21,000  persona 

As  St.  Peter's,  at  Rome,  may  be  regarded  as 
the  seat  of  ecclesiastical  sovereignty  of  the 
Catholic  Church,  so  may  this  grand  old  cathe- 
dral be  regarded  as  the  fountain  of  church  litera- 
ture. 

In  sight  of,  and  upon  the  same  island,  is  Hotel 
Dieu,  the  most  ancient  hospital  in  Paris,  the 
foundation  of  which  is  attributed  to  St.  Landry, 


Notre  Dame  (seen  from  the  rear). 

as  st.  peter's  at  rome  may  be  regarded  as  the 
seat  of  ecclesiastical  sovereignty  of  the 
catholic  church,  so  may  this  grand  old 
cathedral  be  regarded  as  the  fountain  of 
church  literature. 


THE   HOTEL   DE   VILLE.  1 77 

under  Childeric  II.,  in  the  year  660.  To  the 
west  is  the  Palace  of  Justice.  Here  the  visitor 
will  be  reminded  somewhat  of  the  Tower  of 
London.  It  contains  the  place  of  holding  the 
French  courts,  a  prison,  and  a  beautiful  chapel. 
Passing  out  of  the  court,  which  was  in  session, 
the  guide  conducted  me  to  the  yard  of  the  prison, 
which  is  a  small,  square  and  dingy-looking  place 
surrounded  with  high  iron  pickets.  When  in- 
formed that  in  that  pen  Marie  Antoinette  was 
executed,  we  turned  from  the  place  and  left  the 
island,  crossing  the  river  at  Pont  du  Change.  To 
the  right  is  seen  the  tower  and  blackened  walls, 
the  remains  of  the  Hotel  de  Ville — the  work  of 
the  Commune  in  1871. 

The  streets,  avenues,  ways,  and  alleys  of  Paris 
are  straight,  clean,  beautiful,  and  indicate  the 
greatest  care  in  their  preservation ;  and  very 
many  of  the  buildings  are  artistically  built,  and 
stand  majestically. 

Tired  and  weary  I  returned  to  the  hotel,  satis- 
fied that,  aside  from  the  monuments  erected  and 
historical  points  of  interest  noted,  Paris  is  other- 
wise the  most  beautiful  city  on  earth. 

I  was  now  informed  that  the  Cuba  would  leave 
her  docks,  at  Liverpool,  for  New  York  in  a  few 
8* 


178     NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

days,  and  I  was  compelled,  reluctantly,  to  make 
my  preparations  to  return  to  England  in  the  cars 
which  would  leave  the  depot  at  10  o'clock  that 
night. 


CHAPTER   XVIII. 

THE  FRENCH   PEOPLE — CHARACTER,   ETC. 

IT  would  be  presumption  in  me  to  attempt  a  dis- 
quisition on  the  manners,  character,  and  cus- 
toms of  the  French  people,  considering  the  short 
time  I  had  to  make  observations  ;  yet,  having 
visited  France,  to  return  without  a  word  of  com- 
ment for  or  against  the  country,  might  be  regard- 
ed as  careless,  to  say  the  least.  As  it  has  always 
been  a  purpose  with  me  to  supply  natural  defi- 
ciencies, by  observation,  and  make  the  most  of  a 
circumscribed  situation,  I  may  say  that  although 
but  two  days  in  the  land  of  the  Gauls,  I  was  at- 
tentive to  what  came  within  the  apprehension  of 
my  senses,  and  so  may  venture  something  about 
this  historic  people.  Opposed  to  monarchy  in 
all  its  forms,  it  was  but  natural  for  me  to  reckon 
them  among  those  who  would  prefer  to  be  ruled 
by  a  monarch  than  by  a  president.  During  the 
Franco-Prussian  war  it  was  but  natural  for  an 
American  to  sympathize  with  Germany,  believ- 

(179) 


l8o      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

ing  the  Germans  to  be  more  republican  in  spirit 
than  the  French.  In  1871,  from  an  American 
stand-point,  I  advocated  the  cause  of  William 
IV.  against  the  Napoleonic  government,  because  I 
believed  the  former  to  be  more  in  accord  with  the 
spirit  of  this  age.  No  impartial  observer  can  even 
set  foot  on  French  soil,  and  mingle  with  the  peo- 
ple for  any  time,  and  return  feeling  that  they  are 
lovers  of  despotic  rule ;  but  the  reverse.  It  is 
also  a  noticeable  fact  that  whatever  may  be  the 
spirit  of  the  Germans  there  can  be  no  question 
but  that  William  IV.  of  Prussia,  and  Bismarck 
are  monarchists  to  the  fullest  extent.  That  not  a 
drop  of  republican  blood  courses  in  their  veins, 
the  sequel  to  the  recent  war  with  the  French 
fully  shows.  It  had  also  been  a  popular  no- 
tion with  me,  that  the  Communists  of  France 
were  a  set  of  reckless  plunderers,  who  lived  upon 
the  wreck  of  other  men's  fortunes.  My  mind 
was  soon  disabused  of  this  notion.  Napoleon 
III.,  inspired  by  the  same  design  as  his  uncle,  the 
great  Napoleon,  intended,  and  succeeded  in, 
making  Paris  the  grandest  city  on  earth.  To  do 
this  it  was  necessary  to  straighten  and  widen  the 
streets  and  alleys  of  the  great  city,  which  could 
only  be  done  by  the  appropriation  of  much  pri- 


THE   FRENCH    PEOPLE— CHARACTER,  ETC.    l8l 

vate  property  to  the  public  good.  This  arrayed 
the  property-holders  of  Paris  against  the  Napo- 
leonic government.  Another  idea  of  Napoleon 
was  to  beautify  his  country  by  encouraging  the 
cultivation  of  forest  trees.  To  this  end  not  only 
were  the  public  lands  planted  in  timber  and  pro- 
tected from  trespassers,  but  laws  were  enacted 
making.it  penal  for  farmers  to  destroy  their  own 
timber.  The  result  of  this  is  apparent  to  the 
traveler  in  passing  down  from  Calais  to  Paris.  I 
remember  a  forest  which  contained  300  acres  that 
will  compare  favorably  with  some  of  our  wild 
American  groves,  whose  timber  is  unequaled  in 
the  world.  The  isolated  trees  and  small  groves  on 
farms  were  also  protected.  The  agricultural  class 
preferring  the  use  of  the  lands  for  cultivation  to 
the  protection  of  the  timber,  and  the  property 
owners  in  the  city  demanding  every  foot  of 
ground  for  other  uses  than  its  decoration,  arrayed 
the  property  owners  against  Napoleon,  and  in 
this  way  a  strong  element  of  popular  opposition 
to  his  government  was  created,  which  had  its 
effect  in  the  late  war.  The  Communists  were  but 
the  agents  in  the  hands  of  the  property-holder, 
who  accomplished  a  great  work  of  destruction. 
It  was  the  property-holder  against  labor.     It  is 


1 82  notes  of  Travel  in  Europe. 

but  due  to  the  fallen  monarch  to  say  that  in  the 
improvement  of  the  city  the  interests  of  the  labor- 
ing-men were  consulted  and  held  in  view.  Under 
the  new  Republic,  I  heard  one  cultured  working- 
man  say,  that  the  liberties  and  personal  interests 
of  the  poor  had  been  better  protected  under 
Napoleon  than  Thiers  ;  that  it  was  the  aristocracy 
against  the  laboring  people  that  caused  the  down- 
fall of  Louis  Napoleon.  I  am  not  able  to  say 
whether  this  is  wholly  correct  or  not ;  but  it  has 
such  a  degree  of  plausibility,  that  I  give  it  to  the 
reader  for  what  it  is  worth.  The  Frenchman  fs 
not  inquisitive,  rather  courteous  and  kind  to 
strangers.  At  least,  I  will  guarantee  that  every 
American  who  will  visit  that  country,  and  behave 
himself  as  he  ought,  will  be  treated  with  all  due 
civility.  Should  he  not  understand  the  language 
he  need  not  be  at  a  loss,  as  the  city  of  Paris  is 
much  visited  by  Americans. 

The  wealthy  Parisians  are  inclined  to  luxury 
and  gayety.  The  highly  cultured  and  intelligent 
are  dignified  and  reflective. 

Everywhere  dress  seems  to  be  adapted  to  pro- 
fession, calling,  or  sphere.  The  middle  classes  as 
well  as  the  high  in  rank  live  well,  and  from  my 
observation  none  are  teetotalers  yet,  appear  to 


THE   FRENCH   PEOPLE — CHARACTER,  ETC.    1 83 

have  such  control  over  their  appetites  as  not  to 
run  into  excess. 

The  educated  and  wealthy  are  aristocratic,  yet 
entirely  destitute  of  that  demeanor  which  is  so 
obnoxious  to  an  American.  They  are  good  livers, 
and  had  I  the  time  and  money  to  spare,  I  do  not 
know  where  I  should  rather  go  to  live  well  than 
to  Paris. 

I  do  not  agree  with  many  travelers  that  Paris 
is  the  wickedest  city  in  the  world.  The  majority 
of  the  people  there  may  not  be  in  the  strict  sense 
a  very  pious  people ;  but  I  think  that  the}'  main- 
tain as  good  order  here  as  in  an)'  city  in  the 
world.  None  who  visit  Paris  need  be  annoyed  in 
the  least,  if  they  do  not  step  aside  from  the  line 
of  propriety. 

Whatever  of  evil  there  may  be,  it  is  certainly 
so  circumscribed  that  no  one  need  come  in  con- 
tact with  it,  unless  he  is  himself  inclined  to  vice. 
The  agricultural  classes  are  not  so  tasteful  in  the 
arrangement  of  their  dwellings  as  the  farmers  in 
the  older  parts  of  the  United  States,  but  so  far 
as  I  was  able  to  ascertain,  the  domicile  and  out- 
buildings were  commodious  and  comfortable. 
There  is  an  entire  absence  of  any  attempt  at  vain 


1 84      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

show  ;  the  farms  and  dwellings  are  arranged  with 
a  view  to  the  strictest  economy. 

Were  I  to  search  for  a  type  of  Cincinnatus  or 
Cicero,  in  this  age,  if  I  went  out  of  the  United 
States,  I  should  as  soon  look  among  the  Franks 
as  in  any  other  country. 

France  is  replete  with  mental  food  wh*ch  would 
require  an  age  to  digest,  and  aside  from  her  rich 
treasures,  her  grand  history,  and  interesting  peo- 
ple, the  country  presents  one  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful in  surface  and  contour  in  the  world. 


CHAPTER    XIX. 

HOMEWARD  BOUND — PARIS  TO  CALAIS-— CROSSING 
THE  CHANNEL — THE  WRITER'S  FIRST  SEA- SICK- 
NESS— HOW  THE  PASSENGERS  FELT  ON  ARRIVING 
AT  DOVER — ABOARD  THE  WRONG  TRAIN — CUS- 
TOM-HOUSE SCENE  AT  CHARING  CROSS,  LONDON 
—  THE  OFFICERS'  COURTESY— UNDERGROUND 
RAILROAD  —  VICTORIA  STATION  —  THE  LOST 
TRUNK  FOUND — LONDON  TO  LIVERPOOL— CUS- 
TOM-HOUSE OFFICER  AT  LIVERPOOL — TWO  DAYS 
IN  LIVERPOOL — GETTING  READY  TO  START  FOR 
NEW  YORK. 

WEDNESDAY  evening,  December  16th, 
at  eight  o'clock,  I  arrived  at  the  depot  at 
Paris,  delivered  my  trunk,  took  receipt  therefor, 
and  in  a  few  minutes  was  aboard  the  cars — home- 
ward bound  !  However  depressing  it  may  be  to 
depart  from  scenes  so  interesting,  the  starting  for 
home  produced  an  exhilarating  effect.  That,  at 
least,  was  my  experience.  A  shrill  whistle  was 
the  signal  for  leaving  the  depot,  and  soon  I  was 
again  on  the  way.  From  Paris  to  Calais  that 
night  was  a  blank,  except  a  short  stop  at  Boulogne 

(185) 


1 86  NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN   EUROPE. 

for  lunch  and  to  change  foot  warmers,  which  had 
now  become  somewhat  chilled.  Calais  was 
reached  at  one  o'clock  a.m.  The  much-to-be- 
dreaded  channel  was  to  be  crossed,  and  the  ma- 
jority of  the  passengers  deemed  it  to  their  inter- 
est and  comfort  to  remain  at  this  port  until  day- 
light. It  being  a  rule  with  me  while  traveling, 
when  once  started  not  to  stop  on  the  way  on  ac- 
count of  night  or  inclement  weather,  until  my 
destination  is  reached,  I  concluded  to  try  the 
channel  at  once.  After  leaving  the  cars,  it  was 
difficult  to  learn  the  way  to  the  boat,  which  was 
lying  half  a  mile  out  in  the  harbor,  as  there  seemed 
to  be  no  one  who  could  understand  a  word  of  En- 
glish. Noticing  a  light  which  appeared  some 
half  a  mile  out  in  the  extreme  darkness,  I  took 
that  for  my  guide,  and  in  a  short  time  was  at  the 
docks*;  tracing  my  way  along  the  docks,  I  reached 
a  pier,  which  seemed  to  extend  an  indefinite 
length  into  U|e  sea.  Fearing  that  the  boat  would 
leave,  I  ran  at  a  quickened  pace  until  I  lost  sight 
of  land.  The  harbor  was  to  the  left,  the  North 
Sea  to  the  right,  and  the  narrow  pier  under  me. 

On  reaching  what  I  took  to  be  the  jumping- 
off  place,  the  boat,  which  I  was  informed  by  an 
Englishman   was   to   start  for   Dover  in   fifteen 


CROSSING  THE   CHANNEL.  1 87 

minutes,  was  lying  to  my  left.  Getting  aboard, 
I  inquired  of  the  steward  if  there  was  an  oppor- 
tunity of  getting  a  lunch,  and  was  promptly  in- 
formed J^jjiat  there  was  ample,  and  that  he  pre- 
ferred that  I  should.  This  1  thought,  very  kind 
in  the  steward,  and  seating  myself  at  a  table  pre- 
pared for  the  occasion,  was  soon  served  with  a 
cup  of  excellent  coffee,  some  cold  ham  and  bis- 
cuits, of  which  I  partook  in  sufficient  quantity  to 
supply  the  wants  of  the  most  voracious  wharf- 
man.  Just  as  I  had  about  disposed  of  the  meal 
"the  boat  was  leaving  the  harbor,  a  heavy  gale 
from  the  North  Sea  blowing  meanwhile  upon 
her  starboard.  Soon  the  small  craft  was  tossing 
in  such  a  furious  manner  that  I  was  reminded  of 
an  empty  keg  in  a  mill-pond  during  a  hail-storm. 
The  odor  of  the  cabin  not  being  agreeable,  1  as- 
cended to  the  hurricane  deck,  sat  down,  and 
clung  to  a  stanchion  at  the  edge  of  the  boat  with 
my  face  to  the  north.  The  wind  had  now  reached 
its  greatest  force,  and  the  fury  of  the  sea  was  hid 
from  mortal  eye  by  the  Egyptian  darkness. 

11  The  night  looked  black,  and  boding  darkness  fell 
Precipitate  and  heavy  o'er  the  world." 

The   sensation   can   but   be  described   by  the 
hoisting  and   screwing  of  a   propeller   entering 


1 88      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

the  vortex  of  a  maelstrom.  At  this  moment  the 
watchman  came  and  ordered  me  to  the  cabin  be- 
low. I  disobeyed,  and  informed  him  that  I 
would  take  my  chance  here  rather  thango  to  the 
cabin.  Leaving  me  for  a  time,  the  watchman  soon 
turned  on  his  heel,  and  imperatively  demanded 
that  I  should  go  to  the  cabin.  Finding  all  further 
appeals  in  vain,  I  arose  and  sought  the  entrance 
to  the  stairway  that  led  to  the  cabin.  No  sooner 
had  I  got  the  scent  of  the  cabin  again,  than  I 
thought  my  limbs  were  slightly  paralyzed,  and  I 
began  to  think  that  this  was  a  "  put  up  "  job  by* 
the  mariners  to  make  me  sea-sick.  Descending, 
the  steward  approached  me,  and  pointing  to  a 
sofa,  told  me  that  was  for  me.  I  remarked  I  did 
not  need  all  of  that,  feeling  strongly  impressed 
that  there  was  a  determination  upon  the  part  of 
the  oMcers  to  get  me  into  the  hands  of  the  mon- 
ster. Reaching  the  sofa,  I  had  no  sooner  sat 
down  than  the  steward  brought  me  a  large  white 
dish,  and  that  was  the  straw  that  broke  the 
camel's  back. 

I  needed  nothing  further  to  force  me  into  that 
state  when  all  danger  ceases  to  be  a  terror.  I 
was  sea-sick;  tongue  nor  pen  can  not  describe 
the  sensation  of  a  sea-sick  passenger.     The  drama 


ARRIVING  AT   DOVER.  1 89 

of  a  promiscuously  sea-sick  company  is  both 
tragical  and  farcical'  in  the  extreme.  The  de- 
sponding- demeanor,  choked  utterance,  contor- 
tions, and  writhings  of  a  company  of  passengers 
from  different  nations,  all  packed  in  one  room  of 
a  ferry-boat,  would  remind  one  of  Pandemonium 
uncovered,  the  curtain  lifted  from  Pluto's  regions, 
and  the  eye  beholding  in  reality  the  writhing  and 
agonies  of  the  condemned.  The  insane  man 
may  be  amused  and  yet  he  can  not  laugh ;  he 
may  relate  and  feci  the  piercing  of  the  most 
heart-rending  sorrow,  yet  he  can  not  shed  a  tear. 
While  a  man  or  woman  can  weep,  sanity  re- 
mains. The  lunatic  has  gone  beyond  this  point ; 
so  with  a  sea-sick  man  or  woman,  many  of  the 
scenes  may  be  amusing,  yet  the  person  afflicted 
can  not  smile  ;  he  may  be  ever  so  willing  and  re- 
signed, yet  can  not  die ;  he  may  groan  from 
agony,  yet  can  not  cry,  and  the  dangers  of  the 
angry  ocean  are  robbed  of  all  their  terrors. 

With  a  feeling  of  unconcern  as  to  anything 
that  might  happen,  I  sank,  after  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  or  so,  into  a  sleep  from  which  I  did  not 
awake  until  the  steward  announced  Dover. 
Languid  and  irritable  enough  when  awakened,  I 
can  not  tell  how  I  looked,  but  as  I  gazed  upon 


I90      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

my  fellow-passengers,  they  appeared  as  if  they 
had  all  been  let  loose  from  the  murky  cell  of  a 
damp  prison  where  they  had  been  in  lingering 
confinement  without  anything  to  eat  for  some 
days.  The  train  was  in  waiting  and  we  scrambled 
aboard  for  Charing  Cross  station,  London,  which 
place  was  reached  about  six  o'clock  a.m.  And 
there  we  were  again  shut  up  within  the  custom- 
house inclosure,  in  the  presence  of  an  officer 
awaiting  the  call  of  the  passengers  to  claim  lug- 
gage. I  waited  until  the  last  trunk  and  the  last 
valise  were  carried  away,  but  mine  was  nowhere 
to  be  seen.  Then  the  following  dialogue  ensued 
between  the  superintendent  of  luggage  and  the 
writer : 

Writer. — I  have  been  waiting  patiently  until  all 
the  luggage  has  been  claimed  and  taken  away, 
and  I  do  not  see  my  trunk  here  ;  I  have  been 
careful  and  have  some  valuables  in  it  that  I  prize 
highly,  and  I  see,  with  all  my  care,  it  is  gone. 

Officer. — Where  did  you  get  aboard  ? 

Writer. — At  Paris. 

Officer. — Your  luggage  is  most  likely  to  be  at 
Victoria  station. 

Writer. — Where  is  Victoria  station  ? 

Officer. — About  six  miles  from  here  ;  and  the 


CUSTOM-HOUSE  SCENE.  191 

best  thing  you  can  do  is  to  go  down  there  at 
once  before  the  office  is  closed,  and  you  will,  no 
doubt,  find  it  there. 

Writer. — How  do  I  know  how  to  find  Victoria 
station  ? 

Officer. — Take  the  Underground  Railroad. 

Writer. — How  do  you  suppose  I  know  where 
the  Underground  Railroad  is?  I,  a  stranger 
here  in  a  strange  land,  shut  up  within  an  in- 
closure,  not  a  soul  here  but  you  and  I,  in  a  dense 
and  populated  city,  with  no  one*  to  direct  me 
where  to  go — how  do  you  think  1  can  find 
Victoria  Station  or  the  trunk?  I  tell  you,  sir, 
I  have  a  receipt  for  my  trunk,  which  I  obtained 
in  the  city  of  Paris.  I  shall  pay  no  further  atten- 
tion to  it,  but  shall  hold  the  company  responsible 
for  the  loss. 

The  custom-house  officer  was,  I  think,  one  of 
the  most  genial  men  I  ever  saw.  I  wish  I  knew 
his  name,  for  I  never  meet  with  a  kind  and  gener- 
ous official  at  depot,  custom-house,  or  other 
place,  who  treats  the  traveler  kindly,  but  what  I 
feel  like  complimenting  him  and  giving  his  name 
to  the  world  as  a  benefactor.  Said  he  :  "  I  will 
show  you  where  to  find  the  Underground  train, 
and  shall  also  accompany  you  to  Liverpool."     I 


192  NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN   EUROPE. 

got  aboard  the  train,  thankexl  the  officer,  and  he 
took* his  leave.  I  never  expected  to  see  him 
again.  Darting  through  a  dark  tunnel  in  a  few 
minutes,  and  Victoria  is  announced.  I  think  I 
was  just  ten  seconds  reaching  the  office  to  in- 
quire for  the  trunk,  and  found  it  all  right.  A 
lady  approached  me  and  inquired  the  cause  of 
my  excitement,  and  remarked  very  coolly,  and 
without  any  apparent  emotion,  that  she,  too,  had 
come  from  Dover,  that  her  trunk  had  been  sent 
to  Charing  Cross;  and  that  she  had  been  sent 
to  Victoria. 

The  fact  was  two  trains  were  at  Dover  at  the 
same  time  awaiting  the  arrival  of  the  boat,  one 
for  Charing  Cross  and  the  other  for  Victoria  sta- 
tion at  London  ;  and  in  this  way.  the  confusion 
arose.  Having  now  obtained  my  luggage  it  be- 
came necessary  to  drive  three  miles  to  Euston 
station  to  reach  the  train  for  Liverpool.  The 
weather  being  unusually  stormy,  no  cabs  were  to 
be  seen  ;  hence  a  porter  became  an  absolute  neces- 
sity. As  soon  as  the  name  porter  was  mentioned 
no  less  than  four  were  at  my  side.  1  immediately 
paid  one  a  shilling  to  get  a  cab ;  he  never  re- 
turned. I  paid  a  second  the  same  amount ;  he 
failed  to  put  in  an  appearance.   The  third  received 


VICTORIA  STATION.  1 93 

the  same  fee,  and  he  not  returning  soon  enough, 
the  fourth  was  hired  with  the  understanding  that 
he  was  to  get  no  pay  until  he  had  found  a  cab. 
While  he  was  on  the  cab  hunt,  the  third  man  re- 
turned and  stated  that  the  roads  were  so  icy  the 
cabmen  did  not  want  to  drive,  and  that  it  was 
doubtful  whether  I  could  get  one. 

"  But  I  must  have  one,"  I  said. 

Three  miles  from  station,  icy  roads,  and  an 
hour  till  train  time.  I  began  to  get  uneasy, 
when  the  fourth  porter  brought  a  horse,  cab, 
and  cabman,  all  of  which  looked  like  octogena- 
rians. 

"  Why,"  said  I,  M  did  you  not  bring  me  a  better 
conveyance?" 

Said  he,  "  You  can  not  get  any  better  to  go  out 
such  a  day  as  this." 

I  entered,  my  trunk  was  put  upon  deck,  the 
trap  door  was  opened,  and  the  driver  demanded 
five  shillings.  To  this  I  objected,  being  double 
the  price. 

He  said,  "  It  is  a  bad  day,  and  I  can  not  go  for 
less." 

"  I  would  not  give  it,"  said  I,  "  your  horse  don't 
look  as  if  he^could  reach  the  station,  even  if  he 
started." 

9 


194     NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

Said  he,  "  If  you  pay  my  fee  I  will  get  you  to 
the  station  if  I  kill  the  horse." 

I  agreed,  he  started,  and  if  the  horse  fell  once 
he  fell  twenty  times  in  going  the  three  miles.  I 
reached  the  station  just  in  time,  paid  the  man 
more  than  he  asked,  and  am  inclined  to  think  the 
cabman  never  took  another  passenger  to  the  sta- 
tion with  that  conveyance.  I  was  doubtful  that 
he  would  ever  get  away  from  the  station. 

All  aboard  now  for  Liverpool!  Nothing  of 
note  occurred  on  the  way,  but  I  had  daylight  to 
view  the  country.  One  incident  may  be  mention- 
ed. A  cultured  Englishman,  with  an  intelligent 
little  daughter,  got  aboard  at  a  way  station.  Just 
as  they  had  seated  themselves  in  the  same  car,  I 
noticed  a  shilling-piece  on  the  floor,  which  I 
picked  up  and  called  their  attention  to  it.  I  did 
not  know  whether  I  had  dropped  it  or  not.  The 
gentleman  said  he  had  not.  The  little  girl  said 
she  had  not  lost  it. 

The  father  says,  "  Daughter,  look,  examine  your 
purse,  you  may  have  dropped  it." 

After  examining  her  porte-monnaie,  she  says, 
"  Pa,  it  is  not  mine.     I  have  all  my  money." 

Being  the  finder,  and  no  claimant  appearing,  I  be- 
came the  owner  of  the  shilling.  It  was  not  the  mon- 


TWO  DAYS   IN  LIVERPOOL.  1 95 

ey  that  gratified  me — it  would  have  been  a  pleasure 
to  me  if  either  had  claimed  it ;  it  was  the  integrity 
and  true  nobility  of  the  gentleman  and  sweet  little 
girl.  I  could  trust  such  persons  to  the  ends  of 
the  earth.  I  wras  gratified  to  learn  that  there 
were  hosts  of  such  who  never  had  been  out  of 
England. 

At  four  o'clock  we  reached  Lime  Street  station, 
Liverpool,  and  on  alighting  from  the  train  the 
first  thing  that  arrested  my  attention  was  the 
London  Custom-house  officer,  bringing  my  trunk, 
which  he  Son  presented  to  me  with  a  smile  on 
his  countenance,  and  I  delivered  to  him  my  re- 
ceipt. I  learned  a  lesson  in  this  transaction  which 
I  shall  never  forget :  If  everything  don't  go  just 
precisely  as  we  want  it,  don't  fret. 

I  took  up  my  quarters  at  the  Northwestern 
Hotel,  to  remain  over  until  Saturday,  when  the 
Cuba  was  to  start.  This  afternoon,  feeling  tired, 
I  rested.  Friday  I  took  a  view  of  the  city.  Liv- 
erpool looks  more  like  an  American  port  than 
any  other  I  have  seen.  Its  population  is  not  fa*r 
from  500,000,  and  it  is,  perhaps,  the  greatest  ship- 
ping port  in  the  world.  The  floating  docks  are  a 
marvel.  The  fish-market  is  very  interesting ;  I 
think  it  is  the  largest  of  the  kind  I  ever  saw.  Every- 


I96      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

thing  in  the  fish  department  from  a  shrimp  to  a 
sole  may  be  found  here.  The  most  noticeable 
feature  is  the  cleanliness,  many  of  the  stalls  being 
as  neat  as  a  parlor,  and  women  while  watching 
their  goods,  and  waiting  for  customers,  may  be 
found  there  engaged  in  the  neatest  of  embroidery. 
How  unlike  Billingsgate  !  There  are  a  few  build- 
ings here  as  monuments  of  the  old  Normans. 
The  most  astonishing  thing  to  me  was  the  spec- 
tacle of  a  single  draught-horse  hitched  to  a  dray 
and  drawing  a  load,  which  I  was  informed  weighed 
five  tons.  It  was  of  the  Norman  stoc?,  and  one 
of  the  largest  of  that  order  of  horses  I  ever 
saw.  Why  would  it  not  be  a  good  idea  to  ship 
some  of  them  to  America  ?  It  is  said  that  though 
these  horses  weigh  nearly  double  a  large  Ameri- 
can horse,  they  eat  but  little  more.  If  the  same 
labor  could  be  performed  with  one  of  those,  that 
can  be  done  with  two  of  ours,  it  would  be  a  great 
saving  of  expense. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

FROM  LIVERPOOL  TO  NEW  YORK  —  GETTING 
ABOARD  —  THE  CUBA  —  LIST  OF  PASSENGERS — 
IRISH  COAST  —  CORK  HARBOR  —  AN  HOUR  IN 
QUEENSTOWN,  IRELAND  —  OUR  LOG-BOOK  — 
DUTCH  ANECDOTE — THE  AUTHOR'S  ARREST — 
THE  COURT  ON  BOARD  AND  ITS  DECREE  — 
CHRISTMAS  ON  BOARD — THE  ARREST  OF  MR. 
BRAGG,  THE  I&ON  MERCHANT,  AND  HIS  CONVIC- 
TION—  OUR  SITUATION  DECEMBER  26TH  AND 
27TH— ARREST,  TRIAL,  AND  DEFENSE  OF  THE 
SCOTCH  WIT— ACCIDENT  TO  MR.  BLISS  —  NEW 
YORK. 

IT  is  no  rare  thing  for  the  traveler  and  tourist, 
in  these  days,  to  keep  a  diary  of  observa- 
tions, incidents,  and  events,  even  if  the  trip  do 
not  extend  beyond  the  limits  of  his  own  country. 
So  common  has  diary-making  become  that  the 
notes  of  the  Shah  of  Persia,  in  his  tour  through 
Europe,  have  been  translated  into  all  the  prin- 
cipal languages. 

One  thing  we  have  observed  in  most  of  these 

(197) 


I98  NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

diaries:  the  ocean  leaf  is  always  blank.  The  trip 
across  the  ocean  is  usually  regarded  as  a  blank 
in  the  life  of  the  traveler.  I,  too,  have  made  a 
short  diary  of  a  flying  visit  to  England  and 
France,  which,  unlike  that  of  the  Shah  and  many 
other  noted  travelers,  may  never  be  translated 
into  Arabic,  French,  or  German,  or  even  pub- 
lished in  our  own  vernacular ;  but  whether  it  is 
or  not,  the  blank  must  be  filled. 

On  the  19th  of  December,  the  writer,  with 
valise  and  luggage,  got  aboard  the  steamship 
Cuba,  bound  for  America.  To  an  American 
who  has  been  absent  from  his  country  for  some 
time,  the  name  of  America  has  an  endearing 
sound;  and  none  but  an  American  can  feel  the 
thrill  produced  on  board  a  ship  leaving  a  foreign 
port  bound  for  the  United  States.  At  precisely 
two  o'clock  P.M.  we  left  Liverpool,  and  soon  were 
under  full  sail.  The  Cuba  is  300  feet  long  ;  con- 
tains four  rows  of  state-rooms,  two  inside  and 
two  outside,  well  furnished.  Her  first  cabin  eat- 
ing saloon  is  elegantly  finished  and  ventilated, 
and  will  accommodate  200  first-cabin  passengers. 
Through  the  kindness  of  Mr.  Tomlinson,  the 
engineer,  the  writer,  with  others,  was  shown  the 
machinery  and  hold,  which  I  will  not  attempt  to 


THE  CUBA— LIST  OF  PASSENGERS.  1 99 

describe  ^Further  than  to  say  the  engine  is  a 
miracle  of  power,  and  the  hull  of  sufficient 
strength  to  float  on  any  sea.  It  was  our  only 
foothold,  at  any  rate,  until  we  should  reach  the 
port  of  New  York. 

Having  confidence  in  the  ship  and  the  crew 
that  was  to  run  her,  we  walked  into  the  saloon 
and  found  dinner  awaiting  whoever  might  be  on 
board.  At  the  table,  a  card  with  each  passen- 
ger's name  thereon,  is  pinned  on  the  cloth  to  in- 
dicate the  passenger's  seat  for  the  voyage.  We 
soon  found  our  seat,  and  near  it  a  printed  list  of 
passengers  names,  which  we  picked  up  and  read, 
as  follows: 

Mrs.  Annie  Atkin,  D.  H.  Bailey,  American 
Consul  at  Hong-Kong ;  N.  and  Geo.  N.  Bliss,  of 
New  York;  Wm.  Bragg,  Esq.,  Sheffield,  En- 
gland ;  Mrs.  Broadish,  son,  and  maid,  Mrs.  Jessie 
Clayburn,  B.  Cohen,  Esq.,  Chas.  Cowen,  G.  M. 
Fairchild,  Dn  F.  H.  Foster,  Thomas  Geddes, 
Austin  Gray,  Mr.  Geo.  Hamilton,  Chas.  Heaton, 
A.  G.  Hopkins  and  lady,  D.  Mclnnes,  J.  Mun- 
son,  J.  P.  Marquand,  E.  Nostrand,  A.  Openhyme, 
M.  Phillips,  James  Pyle,  lady,  and  child  ;  Thomas 
Rodman,  lady,  two  children  and  nurse;  David 
Ripley  and  lady,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Paul  Sgobel,  J. 


200  NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN   EUROPE. 

M.  Streeton,  G.  Valois,  and  the  wri&r,  which 
adds  up  to  40,  round  numbers.* 

The  next  thing  in  order  was  dinner,  and  after 
that  to  cultivate  an  acquaintance. 

There  being  a  calm  on  the  Irish  Sea — the  wea- 
ther pleasant — the  passengers  enjoyed  themselves 
in  conversation  and  other  innocent  amusements 
until  eleven  o'clock  p.m.,  when  the  steward  an- 
nounced that  it  was  near  the  time  for  retiring. 
On  this  boat  the  rule  is  to  retire  at  half-past  eleven 
and  all  the  lights  must  be  extinguished  at  twelve. 
Not  that  we  were  sleepy,  but  it  was  in  obedience 
to  the  inexorable  law,  which,  like  that  of  the 
Medes  and  Persians,  could  not  be  repealed,  that  we 
hunted  our  state-room,  got  on  our  "  little  bed  "  and 
forced  ourself  into  the  arms  of  Morpheus,  which 
stupid  god  refused  to  give  us  up,  until  the 
steward  peremptorily  demanded  our  release  next 
morning.  When  the  officers  command,  the  gods 
must  obey.  Soon  we  had  arranged  our  dress 
and  toilet  for  breakfast,  and  took  our  seat  where 
the  card  had  been  pinned  on  the  day  before,  and 
disposed  of  a  reasonable   number   of  eggs  and 


*  A  full  list  of  passengers  with  their  Post-office  addresses  may 
be  found  at  the  close  of  this  book,  post  page . 


THE   IRISH   COAST — CORK    HARBOR.  201 

herring,  together  with  something  less  than  one 
pound  of  salmon*.* As  water  on  board  is  unwhole- 
some, tea  and  coffee  unpalatable,  English  ale  be- 
came the  chief  drink.  Seeing  everybody  else 
drinking  ale,  and  as  herring  and  salmon  have 
a  great  affinity  for  fluids,  we  called  for  a  bottle 
also,  of  which  the  steward  seemed  to  have  an  in- 
exhaustible supply.  Our  education  on  this  point 
was  very  defective,  but  as  our  physician  recom- 
mends it  as  an  invaluable  auxiliary  to  an  ocean 
traveler  we  set  ourselves,  to  work  and  soon 
learned  our  lesson  well.  We  are  always  tempted 
with  anything  that  is  said  to  promote  health. 

After  breakfast,  it  being  a  fine  Sabbath  morn- 
ing, we  had  nothing  to  do  but  view  the  coast  of 
Ireland  and  its  beautiful  scenery.  This  created 
quite  a  demand  for  telescopes  and  opera-glasses, 
one  of  which  no  tourist  should  be  without.  At 
ten  o'clock  A.M.  we  turned  into  Cork  Harbor — 
ran  up  the  United  States  flag,  and  anchored  a  half 
mile  from  shore.  Here  a  small  steamer  "  hauled 
to "  to  receive  the  mail.  Learning  that  this 
small  craft  would  return,  I,  together  with  four 
others  who  could  not  resist  the  temptation,  got 
aboard  and  ran  over  to  Queenstown.  On  taking 
our  leave,  the  captain  required  us  to  be  back  on 


202      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

time,  which  we  promised  to  do,  and  then  were 
off,  looking  back  occasionally  to  £ee  whether  the 
Cuba  was  still  at  anchor.  In  a  few  minutes  we 
were  on  shore,  met  by  a  dozen  or  more  rosy-cheek- 
ed girls,  who  greeted  us  with  as  many  "God 
bless  you's  "  and  "  Welcome  to  old  Ireland  ;  " 
such  greetings  and  salutations  are  very  chea'p, 
and,  in  fact,  they  don't  cost  anything,  neverthe- 
less, they  enabled  us  to  put  on  an  air  of  dignity 
and  self-reliance  that  would  have  been  impossible 
under  other  circumstances.  I  wondered  a.  few 
minutes,  why  such  cheap  things  that  do  the 
world  so  much  good  and  yet  are  more  valuable 
than  gold,  when  distributed,  were  not  more  gen- 
erally dispensed.  Elated  with  our  reception,  and 
remarking  what  a  treat  our  fellow-passengers 
whom  we  had  left  behind  were  missing,  we  step- 
ped lightly  but  briskly  up  street  for  a  stroll 
through  the  city,  but  were  soon  met  by  a 
dozen  or  more  old  and  infirm  ladies  and  gentle- 
men, each  with  some  of  the  native  or  manufac- 
tured products  of  Ireland.  These  appealed  to 
every  sympathy,  and  pulled  at  every  cord  of  our 
human  nature,  to  induce  us  to  buy.  Softened 
before  by  the  warm  greeting  of  the  girls,  resist- 
ance  to  this  attack  became   impossible — all  we 


OUR  LOG-BOOK — QUEENSTOWN.  20$ 

had  to  do  was,  through  our  gestures  and  smiles, 
to  lessen  the  number  and  quantity  of  purchases, 
that  we  might  have  enough  money  to  reach 
home.  Some  of  our  party  obtained  a  bunch  or 
pot  of  shamrock,  an-  Irish  oak  breast- pin  or 
bracelet,  and  a  pure  Irish  linen  hand-worked 
handkerchief,  and  others  a  black-thorn  cane,  or 
shelalati,  the  small  boat  hauled  to  shore  and  we 
were  taken  aboard  for  the  Cuba,  minus  from  ten 
to  twenty  shillings  apiece.  Now  there  was  wav- 
ing of  hats  and  bidding  "  good*-bye.M 

Queenstown  is  a  beautiful  city  of  12,000  inhab- 
itants, and  Cork  Harbor  one  of  the  finest  natural 
harbors  in  the  world.  Arriving  in  time  we  got 
aboard,  and  with  us  something  less  than  one 
hundred  tons  of  mail,  together  with  enough 
holly  and  mistletoe  to  decorate  the  boat  on; 
Christmas  Day  ;  soon  we  were  again  plowing 
the  waves  for  New  York. 

On  the  next  morning,  I  commenced  entries  in 
my  log-book,  which  run  as  follows : 

December  21,  1874. — This  morning  I  awoke  to 
find  a  rough  sea,  and  that  we  have  run  220  miles; 
some  passengers  absent  from  table.  The  day 
was  spent  in  conversation  and  -speculation  as  to 
when  we  should  arrive  in  New  York, 


204  NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

Tuesday,  22d. — A  rough  sea ;  nearly  all  sea- 
sick ;  run  227  miles. 

Wednesday,  23d. — Sensitive  stomach  ;  run  232 
miles.  This  evening  at  tea,  opposite  myself,  sat 
Mrs.  Broadish,  whose  intelligence  was  only  sur- 
passed by  her  many  virtues;  and  to  my  left  Mr. 
Gray,  a  young  man  of  fine  accomplishments, 
from  London.  To  break  the  monotony,  and  for 
the  entertainment  of  the  company,  she  related  a 
series  of  religious  and  other  anecdotes  and  in- 
cidents, in  so  fine*  a  style  as  to  elicit  the  undi- 
vided attention  of  the  passengers,  and  contrib- 
uted much  to  their  merriment  as  well  as  diges- 
tion. I  told  the  following  anecdote  in  my  best 
style : 

Somewhere  in  Jasper  County,  Indiana,  some 
years  ago,  there  lived  an  honest  and  industrious 
German  and  wife,  whose  names  were  respectively 
Gotlieb  and  Katrina.  During  a  protracted  meet- 
ing in  that  locality,  Gotlieb  was  observed  to  be 
rather  sedate,  even  unto  melancholy.  Gotlieb 
could  not  account  for  this  strange  feeling  that 
clung  to  him  like  an  incubus,  but  continued  daily 
to  grow  worse. 

Katrina,  being  of  a  religious  turn,  remarked : 
"  Gotlieb,  I  will  tell  vou  what  is  the  matter  with 


DUTCH    ANECDOTE.  205 

you ;  you  are  under  conviction  of  sin,  and  you 
must  pray." 

Says  Gotlieb  :  u  I  can  not  pray." 

But  says  Katrina  :  "  You  must." 

Gotlieb,  feeling  that  he  must  perish  under  the 
weight,  repaired  to  his  barn,  knelt  down,  and  re- 
peated the  child's  prayer.  Feeling  better,  he 
again  repeated  the  prayer,  and  in  the  closing 
line  he  was  happily  converted. 

Being  now  happy,  Gotlieb  goes  to  class-meet- 
ing, and  relates  his  experience  : 

"  Bruddern  and  Swesters :  I  yust  dells  you  vot 
id  ish  ;  some  tays  ago  I  vas  feelin'  so  pad  1  yust 
dink  I  must  tie.  Katrina  dell  me  I  must  bray  ; 
but  I  dells  her  I  could  not.  So  Katrina  dells  me 
again  I  must.  So  I  goesoud  to  de  parn  and  gets 
down  on  my  knees,  and  say — 

"  '  Now  I  lay  me  doun  to  sleeb, 
I  bray  de  Lord  my  zoul  to  keeb  ; 
If  I  should  die  pefore  I  wake, 
I  bray  de  I„ord  my  zoul  to  dake.' 

"  When  I  gid  ub  I  feels  bedder.  So  I  gets 
down  and  brays  him  over  again,  und  ven  I  gets 
drough  I  shumps  up  and  feel  yust  so  habby  !  I 
feel  habby  all  the  time !  I'm  habby  now  !  I'm 
yust  so  full  I  can  hardly  speak.  Hurrah  for 
-Jesus  Christ — God  d — n  the  devil !  " 


2©6  NOTES   OF  TRAVEL    IN    EUROPE. 

In  relating  the  Dutchman's  experience  I  had 
anticipated  a  laugh.  The  laugh  did  not  come  in. 
I  sat  for  half  an  hour  as  silent  as  a  mute,  wonder- 
ing what  I  had  done  to  meet  with  such  a  severe 
rebuke ;  but  shortly  all  was  made  plain.  Mr. 
Heaton,  called  by  those  on  board  the  Black 
Prince,  came  in,  caught  me  by  the  arm,  saying, 
"  You  are  my  prisoner,"  at  the  same  time  read- 
ing a  warrant  charging  me  with  having  used  im- 
proper language  in  the  presence  of  ladies.  I  im- 
mediately followed  the  sheriff  to  the  smoking- 
room,  which  had  been  converted  into  a  court- 
room for  the  occasion.  D.  H.  Bailey,  the  consul 
at  Hong  Kong,  was  sitting  as  judge,  with  all  the 
dignity  of  Chief-Justice  Cockburn.  Mr.  Cowen 
occupied  the  clerk's  stand ;  E.  Nostrand  was 
jailor ;  Mr.  William  Bragg  prosecuted  the  case, 
and  Messrs.  Bliss,  Gray,  and  Openhyme  were 
witnesses  for  the  State. 

I  arose,  addressed  the  Court,  and  asked  per- 
mission to  see  the  indictment,  which  was  refused. 
I  then  moved  the  Court  for  a  change  of  venue, 
which  was  also  refused.  The  Court  then,  in  a 
severe  tone,  said  that-  it  was  the  rule  of  this 
Court  that  the  prisoner  could  not  further  be  per- 
mitted to  speak  only  through  counsel.     I  then 


TRIAL  AND   DEFENSE.      .  207 

asked  time  to  employ  and  consult  an  attorney. 
The  services  of  Thomas  Rodman  were  engaged, 
to  whom  I  am  much  indebted  far  an  able  defense. 

Everything  being  now  ready  for  the  trial,  the 
prosecutor  opened  the  case  and  introduced  his 
witnesses,  who  all  testified  to  the  guilt  of  the  de- 
fendant, and  a  case,  of  course,  was  made  out.  I 
then  summoned  Mrs.  Broadish  and  Mrs.  Clay- 
burn,  who  both  testified  that  they  had  heard 
nothing  improper. 

The  prosecutor,  in  his  cross-examination  of 
Mrs.  Broadish,  asked  her  again  if  she  had  not 
heard  the  defendant  use  improper  language  in- 
ner hearing.  She  said^she  had  not,  but  that  she 
had,  that  evening,  heard  the  honorable  prosecu- 
tor himself  using  language  unbecoming.  The 
scale  was  now  turned.  The  Court,  somewhat 
confounded,  instructed  the  jury  that  the  offense 
was  a  grave  one,  and  ought  to  be  punished  to 
the  fullest  extent  of  the  law.  The  jury,  however, 
notwithstanding  the  instructions  of  the  Court, 
found  a  verdict  of  acquittal. 

Thursday,  December  24th. — The  steamer  was 
decorated  with  holly  and  mistletoe  for  Christmas. 

Friday,  25th. — We  awoke  to  find  the  Atlantic 
furious.     Passing  into  the  aft  gangway,  up-stairs, 


208      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

I  saw  a  lady  passenger  looking  out  on  the  angry 
waves.  My  entrance  attracted  her  attention, 
and  she  looked  at  me  and  said  :  "  Do  you  think 
we  will  ever  get  ashore  ?" 

I  remarked  :  "  I  hope  so.  This  morning  I  saw 
a  rainbow,"  and  then  repeated  the  old  proverb : 
"  A  rainbow  in  the  morning  is  a  sailor's  warning." 
I  was  immediately  reproved,  and  requested  not 
to  prognosticate. 

At  eleven  o'clock  prayers  were  read  by  the 
captain,  which  service  the  crew,  officers,  and 
passengers  attended.  It  was  a  noble  congrega- 
tion, and  the  dinner  was  such  as  kings,  queens, 
and  princes  might  delight  in  ;  but  Neptune  held 
such  a  firm  grasp  on  our  stomachs,  that  but  little 
room  was  left  to  store  away  the  good  things  be- 
fore us  ;  at  least  I  had  not  the  inclination.  After 
dinner,  Mr.  Bragg,  who  is  an  iron  merchant,  a 
manufacturer,  a  writer  of  "  The  History  of  Pipes," 
and,  by  the  way,  an  inventor  of  a  new  style  of 
meerschaum  pipe,  and  who,  it  may  be  inferred, 
loves  a  good  smoke,  was  arrested  and  brought 
before  his  honor,  Mr.  Bailey,  on  the  following 
charges:  ist.  Abduction;  2d.  Smoking  bad 
tobacco  ;  3d.  For  smoking  a  pipe  of  peculiar 
shape.     Mr.  Rodman,  prosecutor. 


ARREST  AND   CONVICTION  OF  MR.  BRAGG.   20O. 

The  witnesses  were  all  sworn  by  Neptune  to 
tell  no  truth  and  nothing  but  untruth  ;  all  of 
whom  testified  as  to  the  guilt  of  the  prisoner. 
The  Court,  in  summing  up  the  evidence,  and  in- 
structing the  jury  as  to  the  law,  said,  among 
other  things:  "That  it  became  his  solemn  duty 
in  the  state  of  uncertainty  prevailin^in  the  gov- 
ernment of  Cuba,  to  say,  that  a  very  grievous 
offense  had  been  committed  ;  that  the  evidence 
all  tended  to  confirm  the  guilt  of  the  defendant. 
As  to  the  law,  I  must  instruct  the  jury  that  on 
page  242  of  the  Third  Book  of  Blackstone's  Com- 
mentaries, I  find  this  language:  '  You  bet!' 
which  means  that  the  prisoner  is  guilty."  .  The 
Court  further  instructed  the  jury  that  if  they 
found  the  prisoner  guilty,  they  should  assess  a 
fine  of  not  less  than  five,  nor  more  than  twenty, 
bottles  of  champagne  on  each  count  of  the  indict- 
ment. The  jury  found  a  verdict  of  guilty  on 
each  count  in  the  indictment,  and  the  Court  ren- 
dered judgment  accordingly.  The  Court  further 
said,  that  as  against  the  witnesses  for  testifying, 
the  attorney  who  prosecuted,  the  jury  who  tried, 
the  Court  who  listened",  and  the  sheriff  who  exe- 
cuted the  writ  in  this  horrid  conspiracy,  a  fine  of 
five  bottles  of  champagne  each,  should   be  as- 


210      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

sessed.  At  midnight  we  felt  weary,  and  yet  were 
sleepless,  and  would  have  been  glad  to  remain 
up  with  the  company  all  night.  Mr.  Marquand, 
of  Boston,  who  is  always  ready  to  quiet  the  fears 
of  the  nervous,  and  add  to  the  cheer  of  the  com- 
pany, kindly  invited  me  to  his  large  and  com- 
modious ^ate-room,  and  in  his  company  I  ob- 
tained a  quiet  night's  rest. 

Saturday,  December  26th. — The  storm  in- 
creased. It  appeared  as  if  Neptune  had  opened 
all  his  batteries  upon  us  ;  but  most  of  the  passen- 
gers have  now  become  used  to  it. 

Sunday  evening,  December  27th. — I  am  now 
sitting  in  the  saloon  of  the  Cuba)  across  the  table 
is  Mr.  Phillips,  from  Mexico  ;  a  little  to  my  left, 
Mr.  Bailey,  and  at  my  side,  Mr.  Marquand.  The 
wind  is  blowing  a  fierce  gale,  the  ship  is  rocking 
furiously.  I  am  tired  of  wind,  which  has  con- 
tinued to  blow  for  three  days.  We  are  now  1,900 
miles  from  Liverpool  and  1,200  from  New  York; 
virtually,  in  mid-ocean*  We  have  been  rocked 
and  shaken  for  the  last  six  days,  and  now,  amid 
the  hideousness  of  an  Atlantic  storm,  having  had 
no  opportunity  of  stepping  on  terra  Jirma  for  a 
rest,  I  should  almost  despair  were  it  not  for  the 
fact  that  the  passengers  are  all  friendly  and  cheer- 


ARREST  AND  TRIAL  OF  THE  SCOTCH  WIT.    211 

ful,  and  our  boat  is  seaworthy,  and,  we  think, 
able  to  live  amid  the' distracted  elements. 

Monday,  December  28th. — Mr.  Geddes,  our 
Scotch  wit,  was  arrested  on  a  charge  of  falsely 
personating.  The  same  officers  were  present, 
except  that  Mr.  Rodman  was  judge ;  Bailey, 
prosecutor,  and  the  writer  defended.  There  be-, 
ing  no  indictment  on  file,  the  defendant's  counsel 
moved  for  the  discharge  of  the  prisoner.  The 
Court  held,  that  he  had  in  the  State  of  Uncertainty 
a  right  to  try  a  man  for  crime  without  indictment ; 
that  the  defendant  had  no  rights  in  this  State 
that  the  Court  was  bound  to  respect.  I  then 
picked  up  a  book,  and  read  this  law  to  the  Court : 
"  Be  it  enacted  by  the  General  Assembly  of  the 
State  of  Uncertainty,  in  the  Government  of 
Cuba,  that  no  man  shall  be  put  in  jeopardy,  or 
tried  upon  a  criminal  charge,  without  he  be  first 
indicted  by  the  Grand  Jury." 

The  Court  hesitating,  the  prosecutor  arose 
and  called  the  attention  of  the  Court  to  the  fact 
that  the  book  from  which  I  had  read  the  law  was 
a  copy  of  Tristram  Shandy,  and  ought  not  to 
govern  the  Court.  Seeing  the  effect  produced 
by  the  seriousness  of  the  prosecuting  attorney,  I 
arose  and  said  :  "  If  your  honor  please,  Tristram 


212      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

Shandy  is  good  law  in  this  Court ;  and  I  have 
never  heard  it  disputed  until  the  present  time." 
We  thought  we  saw  a  marked  change  in  the 
countenance  of  the  Court  favorable  to  the  pris- 
soner.  Just  at  this  moment  our  attention  was 
called  to  the  fact  that  the  dummy  engine  had 
caught  and  nipped  the  end  of  Mr.  Bliss'  little 
finger  off.  The  sight  of  blood  caused  Mr.  Bliss 
to  faint  away,  and  he  became  the  center  of  attrac- 
tion for  the  moment,  and  our  trial  was  suspended. 

Tuesday,  December  29th. — For  some  cause  we 
omitted  our  entry. 

Wednesday,  December  30th. — To-day  the  very 
elements  seem  to  have  burst  forth,  and  in  place 
of  running  300  miles,  as  it.  was  expected,  the  log 
was  made  up  at  180,  and  we  were  then  in  lat.  51 
N.,  and  long.  62  W.  Yesterday  we  were  to  have 
been  in  New  York,  but  the  continued  squalls  and 
storms  will  prevent  us  reaching  that  point  before 
Saturday,  January  2d.  It  is  now  eight  o'clock 
p.m.,  and  the  sea  is  mountain  high,  the  spray  fly- 
ing, the  waves  dashing  on  the  deck  of  our  ship ; 
but  the  wind  is,  we  think,  abating.  No  one  who 
has  never  seen,  or  rather  been  on  board  of  a  ship 
in  a  tempest  on  the  Atlantic,  could  have  the 
most  distant  idea  of  the  terrible  character  as  well 


TEMPESTUOUS  WEATHER.  213 

as  the  grandeur  of  the  scene.     Language  will  fall 
very  far  short  of  describing  it. 

"  'Tis  pleasant  by  the  cheerful  hearths  to  hear 
Of  tempests  and  the  dangers  of  the  deep, 
And  pause  at  times  and  feel  that  we  are  safe  ; 
Then  listen  to  the  perilous  tale  again, 
And  with  an  eager  and  suspended  soul, 
Woo  terror  to  delight  us  ;  but  to  hear 
The  roaring  of  the  raging  elements,  • 

To  know  all  human  skill,  all  human  strength 
Avail  not ;  to  look  round  and  only  see 
The  mountain  wave  incumbent  with  the  weight 
Of  bursting  waters  o'er  the  reeling  barks, 
O  God  !  this  is  indeed  a  dreadful  thing." 

At  this  writing,  we  are  500  miles  from  New 
York — a  strong  head  wind  blowing  against  us. 
Everybody  is  cheerful  on  board,  as  they  have  got 
over  their  sea-sickness.  Just  at  this  moment,  a 
heavy  sea  struck  the  vessel,  and  well-nigh  cap- 
sized us.  My  journal  was  all  scattered,  and  my- 
self mostly  pitched  on  the  table.  One  gentleman 
gathering  himself  up,  somewhat  frightened,  said: 

"  What  do  you  think  of  that  ?  " 

I  remarked,  "  that  it  was  a  '  pretty  big  jerk.'  " 

Thursday,  December  31st,  we  awoke  at  seven 
o'clock,  to  behold  a  heavy  sea.  During  the  night 
the  striking  of  the  waves  against  the  side  of  the 
ship,  made  the  report  of  a  six-pound  gun.  The 
wind  continued  to  blow  all  day.     At  this  hour, 


214      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

seven  o'clock  P.M.,  it  is  still  blowing  a  heavy  gale. 
The  run  to-day  was  127  miles,  hence  we  are  400 
miles  from  New  York  ;  and,  unless  we  have  more 
favorable  weather,  we  shall  not  see  New  York 
before  next  Sunday,  which  will  be  four  days  be- 
yond the  time  fixed  for  arrival.  The  day,  as  usual, 
was  put  in  by  eating,  drinking,  conversing,  and 
speculating  on  the  probable  time  of  reaching  our 
destination.  Part  of  the  day  I  was  sick  and  oc- 
cupied my  state-room. 

Friday,  January  1st,  we  had  more  favorable 
wind,  and  a  pleasant  day.  Two  ships  and  one 
steamer  were  passed,  and  at  ten  o'clock  a.m.  we 
met  the  pilot  boat.* 

January  2d. — In  the  morning  we  were  in  quar- 
antine. Here  the  physician  came  aboard,  but 
finding  no  pestilence,  quietly  retired.  At  twelve 
o'clock  M.  we  were  in  the  port  of  New  York,  or 
rather  at  the  Cunard  Docks,  in  Jersey  City. 
There  was  a  general  farewell,  and  the  passengers 
started  for  their  several  places  of  destination. 
Four  passengers,  to  wit :  Mr.  Hamilton,  Mr. 
Phillips,  Mr.  Mclnnes,  and  an  old  gentleman, 
whose  name  is  unknown,  evidently  had  traveled 
before,  and  contributed  much  to  the  encourage- 
ment of  the  company  in  the  Worst  weather. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

THE  ENGLISH  PEOPLE — THEIR  CHARACTERS,  MAN- 
NERS, AND  CUSTOMS,  FROM  A  HOOSIER'S  STAND- 
POINT— THEIR  CHARACTER  AS  A  BODY  POLITIC, 
ETC. 

AMONG  the  middle  classes  the  English  are 
dignified,  cultivated,  and  though  not  really 
discourteous,  are  rather  stiff,  with  a  leaning  toward 
aristocratic  pretension,  and  as  a  rule  monarchical 
in  opinion.  It  is  the  easiest  thing  in  the  world 
to  be  a  monarchist,  where  birth,  education,  rank, 
distinction,  personal  interest,  and  ambition  all  tend 
in  that  direction.  In  fact,  the  current  of  social 
and  political  life  runs  in  that  groove,  and  it  is  the 
most  natural  thing  in  the  world  that  the  mass 
would  be  carried  by  the  current. 

""Custom  forms  us  all, 
Our  thoughts,  our  words,  our  most  fixed  belief 
Are  consequences  of  our  place  of  birth." 

It  is  not  to  be  wondered  at,  therefore,  that  if 
some  superior  mental  or  political  force  undertook 
to  direct  things  differently,  that  it  would  at  once 
be    viewed    with    suspicion   and  "meet   with  de- 

(215) 


2l6  NOTES   OF  TRAVEL   IN   EUROPE. 

termined  opposition.  By  following  in  the  com- 
mon current,  the  English  have  become  a  stable 
and  well-balanced  people,  apparently  well  satis- 
fied with  the  condition  of  things.  In  this  gen- 
eral acquiescence  in  the  administration  of  their 
affairs  in  their  own  way,  subject  only  to  Magna 
Charta  and  the  will  of  their  Queen,  (who,  like 
General  Grant  on  his  first  presidential  term, 
always  desires  her  will  to  conform  to  that  of  her 
subjects),  the  people  have  acquired  a  distrust  for 
every  act  and  movement  not  in  conformity  with 
their  notions;  hence,  by  strangers,  the  English 
are  accused  of  being  overbearing  in  their  char- 
acter. That  which  the  Englishman  regards  as 
good  common  sense,  will  be  mistaken  sometimes 
by  the  traveler  as  pride.  And  this  arrogant  nat- 
ure, which  may  be  pardoned  at  home,  when  as- 
sumed, as  it  is  occasionally  in  our  own  country, 
where  the  laws,  manners,  and  customs  are  molded 
to  suit  a  republican  form,  only  renders  the  indi- 
vidual liable  to  criticism,  but  intolerable  in  the 
judgment  of  the  sensible.  Among  the  masses  of 
the  well-to-do  Englishmen,  the  tendency  is  to- 
ward ease,  amusement,  and  mental  and  moral  de- 
velopment;  or,  in  other  words,  physical,  mental, 
or  moral  training.     In  all  this  there  is  a  method 


THE  ENGLISH   PEOPLE.  217 

or  order  which  produces  such  a  degree  of  har- 
mony that  it  might  serve  as  a  profitable  example 
to  those  in  other  countries  where  less  order  pre- 
vails. 

Breakfast,  lunch,  dinner,  tea,  and  supper  are 
the  routine  of  meals  in  every  well-regulated  En- 
glish family,  and  it  is  gratifying  to  see  with  what 
grace,  ease,  dignity,  and  decorum  all  these  are 
attended  to.  A  healthy  English  man  or  woman 
loves  to  eat  for  the  pleasure  it  gives  them.  And 
it  being  comfortable  for  them  to  masticate  and 
digest,  the  process  is  often  prolonged  for  an  hour. 
The  custom  of  such  attention  to  meals  is  not  only 
peculiarly  English,  but  it  has  the  most  happifying 
results  ;  as  the  numerous  corpulent  and  red-faced, 
healthy,  cheerful,  and  intelligent  English  ladies  and 
gentlemen  will  attest.  When  I  found  that  I  had 
gained  twelve  pounds  in  ten  days,  the  reader  will 
not  be  astonished  when  I  tell  him  that  I  was 
pleased  with  the  custom.  •  Nevertheless,  the  En- 
glish people  are  not  such  big  eaters  as  one  might 
infer  from  their  being  so  often  at  table.  All  meals 
are  handsomely  served,  but  dinner  is  the  English- 
man's feast ;  and  he  enjoys  it.  It  is  not  uncom- 
mon at  meal-time  to  take  porter  or  wine  at  the 
table,  and  while  I  would  not  recommend  that  part 


21 8      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

of  the  programme  to  Americans,  where  it  often 
leads  to  abuses,  I  am  not  prepared  to  denounce 
it  as  a  custom  in  England,  as  I  found  few  among 
the  well-bred  and  highly  cultured  who  indulged 
to  excess.  The  rule  is  to  eat  and  drink,  to  live 
and  be  comfortable,  but  not  to  excess  or  intoxi- 
cation. I  found,  however,  some  exceptions  to 
this  rule  ;  where  the  habit  had  grown  into  an  in- 
firmity or  disease.  The  safe  way  for  Englishmen, 
of  course,  would  be  to  practice  total  abstinence. 

The  English  dress,  as  a  rule,  for  neatness  and 
comfort,  and  not  for  mere  display  ;  although 
among  the  nobility  and  officials  on  certain  occa- 
sions this  rule  has  its  exceptions.  It  is  the  custom 
for  official  dignitaries  to  take  a  drive  out  express- 
ly for  display,  and  then  the  most  gorgeous  and 
expensive  regalia,  paraphernalia,  carriages,  and 
livery,  are  admissible. 

The  Mayor  of  the  city  of  London,  who  is  next 
in  rank  to  the  Queen,  during  his  term  of  office, 
occasionally  drives  out  in  a  carraige  elaborately 
gilded,  drawn  by  four  white  horses,  richly  capar- 
isoned, accompanied  by  four  pages,  and  four 
grooms  in  uniform.  This  proceeding  seems  to 
the  English  all  right,  and  very  essential  to  main- 
tain the  dignity   of  the  high  official.     While    I 


THE  ENGLISH  PEOPLE.  219 

could  fully  recognize  in  the  man  the  dignity  of 
his  position,  this  vain  display,  in  my  opinion,  de- 
tracted from  the  importance  of  the  position,  on 
the  principle  that  real  merit  can  not  be  wholly  ob- 
scured by  a  plain  garb,  nor  want  of  it,  supplied 
by  gold  tinsel.  I  recognized  in  the  Mayor  of  the 
great  metropolis,  a  man  of  profound  ability,  and 
this  display  did  not  tend  to  increase  the  estimate. 
The  same  may  be  said  of  other  and  higher  dig- 
nitaries of  the  Realm  ;  but  as  I  had  not  the  pleas- 
ure of  witnessing  an  ovation  to  the  Queen  or 
Premier,  I  omit  further  comment  in  this  direc- 
tion. 

Kindness  to  strangers  from  abroad  appears  to 
be  a  virtue  with  the  English. 

"View  them  near 
At  home,  where  all  their  pride  is  placed, 
And  there,  their  hospitable  fires  burn  clear." 

This  sentiment  I  can  fully  corroborate  by  per- 
sonal experience,  never  having  found  twenty  days 
of  greater  pleasure  in  my  life,  than  were  spent  in 
England.  With  all  the  tendency  to  haughtiness, 
the  people  pride  themselves  on  their  hospitality. 
They  are  punctual  in  business,  on  duty,  and  punc- 
tual at  church  ;  but  between  amusement  and  duty 
I   think  duty   must  often  yield   to   amusement, 


220      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

as  amusement  is  essential  to  the  health  and  hap- 
piness of  an  Englishman. 

In  the  body  politic  wealth,  rank,  and  official 
position  rule  ;  and  the  necessary  result  is  that  the 
less  favored  are  almost  wholly  dependent  upon 
those  whom  they  deem  to  be  above  them ;  hence 
the  masses  reverence  and  flatter  their  superiors, 
and  the  latter,  in  return,  can  certainly  afford  to 
be  courteous  and  kind  at  least  from  another 
point  of  view.  As  a  nation,  the  English  have 
reason  to  feel  proud.  There  is  no  water  upon 
which  their  ships  have  not  sailed,  nor  is  there  a 
land  where  their  feet  have  not  trodden,  as  the 
trophies  from  the  different  countries  will  show. 

Go  to  Africa,  and  the  Englishman  is  there.  In 
Asia  and  Australia  his  Government  has  planted 
colonies.  In  every  important  island  in  the  sea 
she  has  erected  a  training-post ;  whether  you  go 
among  the  Turks,  Tartars,  or  the  Malays,  you 
will  find  an  English  merchantman,  or  mis- 
sionary, and  England  has  contributed  most  to 
make  the  greatness  of  the  United  States,  her 
daughter;  and,  if  the  child,  in  the  light  of  a 
higher  civilization,  should  outstrip  the  mother, 
the  parent  ought  not  to  be  envious. 

If  England  has  pressed  her  civilization  to  the 


THE   ENGLISH    PEOPLE.  221 

remote  corners  of  the  earth,  it  is  on  account  of 
her  great  naval  and  commercial  energies. 

The  influence  of  a  country  upon  the  world,  if 
not  wholly,  is  very  considerably  measured  by  its 
naval  proportions.  To  have  a  small  navy,  or 
none  at  all,  is  to  be  almost  devoid  of  national 
influence.  Show  me  a  country  with  an  effective 
navy  at  any  period  of  the  world's  history,  and  I 
will  tell  you  with  certainty  what  power  that 
country  exerted  over  the  commerce,  art,  science, 
literature,  and  civilization  of  the  .world.  If  the 
brilliant  and  valorous  deeds  of  the  Phoenicians 
illuminate  the  pages  of  ancient  history,  it  was 
because  they  had  control  of  the  high  seas.  A 
few  years  later,  when  the  glory  of  Solomon's 
government  dazzled  the  eyes  of  princes  and  cap- 
tivated queens,  the  Hebrew  ships  controlled  the 
waters ;  and  when  the  Greeks,  Romans,  Gauls, 
Scandinavians,  Germans,  and  .French  were  each 
in  their  turn  exerting  the  most  powerful  influence 
in  the  world,  each  had  the  naval  supremacy. 
The  rule  is  not  changed  in  modern  times.  The 
naval  superiority  of  Spain  added  to  the  world  a 
new  continent,  but  for  which  it  might  have  been 
left  to  future  generations,  of  a  different  national- 
ity, perhaps,  to  have  ascertained  that  there  was  a 


222  NOTES   OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE.       ' 

western  continent.  If  Great  Britain  has  carried 
her  civilization  to  the  remote  corners  of  the 
earth,  it  is  because  for  400  years  she  has  had  an 
efficient  navy.  The  glory  of  Spain  began  to 
diminish  with  the  loss  of  the  invincible  Armada 
in  1558.  Blot  out  the  navy  of  Great  Britain  and 
she  will  be  forced  to  take  an  inferior  position  in 
the  scale  of  nations. 

At  first  brave  and  aggressive,  the  nation  is 
now  settling  down  into  a  life  of  luxury,  a  situa- 
tion always  adverse  to  progress  and  civilization. 

"  Oh,  luxury,  thou  cursed  by  Heaven's  decree, 
How  ill  exchanged  are  things  like  these  for  thee ! 
How  do  thy  potions,  with  insidious  joy, 
Diffuse  their  pleasures  only  to  destroy  ! 
Kingdoms  by  thee  to  sickly  greatness  grown, 
Boast  of  a  florid  vigor  not  their  own  ; 
At  every  draught  more  large  they  grow, 
A  bloated  mass  of  rank,  unwieldy  woe  ; 
Till  sapped  their  strength,  and  every  part  unsound, 
Down,  down  they  sink,  and  spread  a  ruin  round." 

Every  nation  which  has  prominently  marked 
the  pages  of  the  world's  past  history  had  three 
degrees,  to  wit :  Rise,  Decline,  and  Fall.  When 
she  ceased  to  rise  she  began  to  decline.  The 
Briton  may  say  that  Great  Britain  was  never 
in  so  flourishing  a  condition  as  to-day.  We  will 
accord  to  him  his  view  on  this  point,  but  answer 


THE   ENGLISH   PEOPLE.  223 

that  the  glory  and  splendor  of  Egypt,  Assyria, 
Media,  Persia,  Greece,  and  Rome  were  most 
marked  on  the  eve  of  their  downfall. 

It  was  the  impoverished  condition  of  things  that 
gave  to  each  courage  to  work  out  the  glory  of 
their  own  State.  Pride  and  luxury  robs  nations 
of  their  greatness,  as  self-indulgence  produces 
imbecility  and  premature  decay  on  the  individ- 
ual. 

The  glory  of  Nimrod's  government  never 
shone  so  bright  as  immediately  preceding  its  fall. 

The  same  may  be  said  of  all  others,  and  why 
should  not  the  same  rule  apply  to  modern  gov- 
ernments? It  is  true  that  the  light  of  the  civil- 
ization of  the  nineteenth  century  carries  with  it 
a  greater  social  equilibrium  than  the  ages  referred 
to,  and  the  chances  are  not  so  favorable  to  the 
idea  advanced.  The  forces  required  to  destroy 
a  civilized  government  to-day  must  be  much 
greater  than  4,000,  or  even  2,000  years  ago,  but 
the  conditions  favorable  will  bring  the  same  re- 
sult. We  must  not  forget  that  while  culture  has 
done  much  for  the  present  age,  human  nature  is 
the  same  to-day  that  it  ever  was,  and  if  it  be  more 
difficult  now  to  destroy  a  government  or  a  city 
than  five  hundred  years  ago,  the  forces  are  so 


224      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

much  greater  now  that  the  work  of  destruction 
is  almost  as  certain  and  much  more  calamitous. 

Physical  power  may  for  a  time  hold  in  subjec- 
tion the  masses  of  mankind  ;  -but  it  is  only  for  a 
time.  It  is  only  the  moral  element  that  will  en- 
able any  government  to  endure  permanently  ; 
and  that  moral  element  must  exist  outside  of 
mere  forms  and  ceremonies,  and  must  be  inher- 
ent. There  must  be  a  love  of  honor,  justice,  vir- 
tue, and  righteousness  for  honor's,  justice's,  vir- 
tue's, and  righteousness'  sake.  As  the  moral  sen- 
timent is  the  only  thing  which  can  permanently 
perpetuate  a  nation,  it  is  apparent  that  every  na- 
tion has  within  itself  the  ability  to  be  perpetual. 

11  England  never  did  (nor  never  shall) 
Lie  at  the  proud  foot  of  a  conqueror 
But  when  it  first  did  help  to  wound  itself.'* 

Indeed, 

"  England  is  safe,  if  true  within  itself." 

It  matters  not  what  a  nation  may  arrogate  to 
itself,  if  it  reach  a  point  in  its  history  where  it 
disdains  to  recognize  the  labor  required  to  main- 
tain its  honor  and  integrity,  and  adopts  a  policy 
of  servility  on  the  one  hand  and  aristocracy  on 
the  other,  it  must  succumb  finally  to  the  higher 
order  of  mind  which  never  can  be  enslaved.     As 


THE   ENGLISH    PEOPLE.  225 

a  nation,  England  seems  full  of  prejudice  and 
selfishness;  the  people  always  regarding  their 
system  as  better  than  any  other.  It  constantly 
aims  to  stamp  their  system  upon  other  govern- 
ments as  much  as  it  is  possible,  especially  its  idea 
of  money,  in  the  elaboration  of  which  the  En- 
glish financier  contrives  to  organize  some  plan  to 
centralize  and  control  the  basis  of  what  they  call 
money  to  his  own  ultimate  interest. 

There  is  no  system  that  will  tend  to  centralize 
wealth  and  absorb  the  profits  of  labor,  and  rob  the 
producers  of  wealth  so  much  as  the  convertible 
paper  currency  theory.  If  some  of  the  tramps 
do  break  in  from  necessity  and  steal  your  prop- 
erty, they  are  no  more  dishonest  than  Jacob  was 
in  the  plan  he  adopted  to  rob  Laban  of  his  stock. 
For  Jacob  and  the  tramp  I  have  sympathy.  The 
tramp  must  have  something  to  eat;  and  Jacob 
had  been  cheated  by  his  father-in-law  out  of  four- 
teen years'  labor,  and  perhaps  this  was  God's  way 
of  letting  him  make  up  for  his  loss.  In  great  in- 
dividuals there  is  genius,  and,  though  it  differs 
in  each,  it  is  that  through  which  their  influ- 
ence is  most  keenly  felt  by  the  community  in 
which  they  live. 

Each  civilized  nation  has  its  genius,  and  in 
England  this  genius  crops  out  more  prominently 


226      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

through  the  judiciary  than  anywhere  else.  I  do 
not  intimate  that  there  are  no  literary  or  scien- 
tific developments,  etc.  England  has  her  brilliant 
lights  in  literature  and  science.  She  has  her  in- 
ventive geniuses,  and  wise  legislators,  and  men 
of  great  executive  ability,  but  through  none  does 
England  make  herself  so  powerfully  felt  upon 
surrounding  nations  as  through  her  legal  and 
judicial  acumen. 

The  English  Parliament  is  a  grand  body,  but 
shines  most  through  the  Irish  element.  If  it 
were  left  to  the  English  entirely  to  rule,  it  would 
be  forced  down  into  such  regularity  that  it  would 
become  insipid.  It  is  the  Irish  element  that 
gives  animation  to  Parliament.  The  warm,  im- 
pulsive nature  of  the  Irishman  when  he  has  the 
welfare  of  his  own  people  and  the  rest  of  man- 
kind at  heart,  crops  out  in  his  oratory.  Extinguish 
that  fire,  and  the  English  Parliament  would  evi- 
dently become  a  very  tame  affair. 

I  have  intimated  that  the  English  nation  has 
pressed  her  civilization  to  all  quarters  of  the 
globe  ;  but  must  conclude,  from  observation,  that 
where  she  has  failed  to  receive  from  two  to  four- 
fold in  return,  she  would  immediately  withdraw. 
Self-interest,  the  most  powerful  energy  of  all  na- 
tions, is  peculiarly  energetic  in  the  English  nation. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

A  SUNDAY  IN  BROOKLYN  ON  MY  RETURN  FROM 
EUROPE — AT  THE  MORNING  SERVICE  AT  PLYM- 
OUTH CHURCH— AT  THE  TABERNACLE  DUR- 
ING THE  EVENING  SERVICE  OF  DR.  TALMAGE. 

BROOKLYN  is  the  largest  suburb  of  New 
York  City,  and  is  the  place  of  residence  of 
a  very  large  portion  of  the  business  men  of  New 
York.  It  abounds  in  all  parts  with  elegant  man- 
sions, the  abodes  of  the  wealthy,  who  transact 
business  on  Manhattan  Island  during  the  day 
and  return  to  domiciles  here  at  night  and  on  Sab- 
bath. The  numerous  facilities  for  crossing  the 
East  River,  which  separates  Brooklyn  and  New 
York,  indicate  the  importance  of  the  two  cities 
the  one  to  the  other. 

Brooklyn  contains  over  400,000  inhabitants i 
live,  energetic,  and  highly  intelligent  people,  most 
of  whom  are  thoroughly  church-going. 

Through  the  kindness  of  a  friend    I  obtained 

admission  to  the  gallery  at  the  morning  service 

of  Plymouth  Church.     After  the  usual  prelimi- 

(227) 


228      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

naries  by  the  choir,  etc.,  the  pastor  appeared,  still 
in  the  full  vigor  of  manhood,  and  by  the  magnet- 
ism of  his  person,  the  dignity  of  his  manner,  the 
brilliancy  of  his  rhetoric,  and  the  beauty  and  sim- 
plicity of  his  style,  held  his  congregation  of  5,000 
enchained  until  the  benediction  was  pronounced. 
It  was  a  rich  and  rare  mental  and  moral  feast  to 
one  raised  on  the  frontier. 

In  the  evening,  through  the  same  friend,  I  like- 
wise secured  a  seat  in  Dr.  Talmage's  Tabernacle. 
The  building  is  arranged  in  the  form  of  an  amphi- 
theater. The  organ,  one  of  the  finest  in  America, 
is  in  the  rear  of  the  pulpit.  Immediately  under 
the  canopy  is  a  gas-light  in  the  form  of  a  beauti- 
ful star.  A  tabernacle  song-book  was  handed  to 
every  person  in  the  congregation,  amounting  to 
fully  5,000. 

Not  accustomed  to  singing  myself,  of  course 
this  was  accepted  as  an  act  of  courtesy.  Soon 
Mr.  Arbuckle  with  his  cornet  appeared  in  front 
of  the  pastor  and  commenced  a  solo,  which  was 
followed  by  the  thundering  tones  of  the  organ, 
and  when  the  chorus  was  reached  the  whole  con- 
gregation joined  in  the  singing.  The  room  be- 
came so  filled  with  soul-inspiring  music  that  I 
almost  forgot  my  existence,  and  suddenly  found 
myself  joining  in  the  flood  of  song. 


A  SUNDAY  IN   BROOKLYN.  229 

In  the  We^t  some  ministers  find  it  difficult  to 
get  the  congregation,  or  any  part  thereof,  to  join 
with  the  choir,  that  select  body  alone  having  to 
do  the  singing  ;  but  if  some  such  plan  as  that  of 
Talmage  were  adopted,  congregational  singing 
would  follow  as  a  natural  sequence.  The  pastor 
could  not  stop  it,  no  more  than  he  could  that  of  a 
river  running  down  a  hill.  Congregational  sing- 
ing, under  such  circumstances,  is  just  as  natural 
as  for  a  wheel  to  turn  when  the  power  is  applied. 

I  think  the  doctor  understands  the  philosophy 
of  utilizing  forces,  and  bringing  them  to  bear  for 
moral  purposes,  as  well,  if  not  better  than  any 
man  I  ever  saw. 

At  the  conclusion  of  the  singing,  Dr.  Talmage 
delivered  one  of  his  short,  terse,  and  forcible  ser- 
mons, such  as  he  is  accustomed  to  preach,  with 
telling  effect ;  at  the  conclusion  of  which  the  con- 
gregation dispersed  to  their  several  places  of 
abode,  not  forgetting,  however,  to  talk  about  the 
sermon  on  the  way. 

On  Thursday  evening,  January  7th,  I  left  Jersey 
City  on  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad  for  my  home 
in  Plymouth,  Indiana.  Taking  supper  in  Phila- 
delphia, Pa.,  I  immediately  after  retired  to  my 
berth  in  the  commodious  sleeper,  and  fell  into  a 


230      NOTES  OF  TRAVEL  IN  EUROPE. 

slumber  which  was  neither  disturbed  by  accident 
nor  dreams  until  Altoona  was  announced  next 
morning-,  and  twenty  minutes  allotted  for  break- 
fast. Dinner  was  had  in  Pittsburg,  and  the  after- 
noon occupied  in  social  conversation  with  some 
explanations  as  to  my  trip  across  the  water.  In 
the  evening  supper  was  announced  at  Crestline, 
and  on  leaving  the  car  a  passenger  remarked : 

u  Why,  how  cold  it  appears  to  be ;  I  think  we 
must  have  had  a  sudden  change !  " 

To  me  it  did  seem  very  cold,  and  upon  inquir- 
ing, I  found  the  mercury  to  be  210  below  zero. 
This  was  forty  degrees  colder  than  I  had  experi- 
enced before. 

Supper  ended,  I  was  again  on  the  cars  for  Plym- 
outh. The  little  nervous  agitation  produced 
by  the  pleasurable  anticipation  of  reaching  home 
in  a  few  hours,  banished  all  inclinations  to  sleep ; 
hence  the  remainder  of  the  journey  was  mainly 
occupied  in  conversation  until  Plymouth  was  an- 
nounced, and,  with  satchel  in  hand,  I  soon  reached 
my  humble  domicile,  and  rang  the  bell.  A  voice 
I  recognized  to  be  that  of  my  wife,  inquired  : 

"  Who's  there?" 

And  when  informed  that  it  was  her  husband 
who  sought  an  entrance  at  that  hour  of  the 


A  SUNDAY  IN   BROOKLYN.  23 1 

night,  the  door  was  optned,  and  I  permitted  to 
walk  in. 

"Home  at  last,"  said  I. 

There  is  no  use  talking,  the  poet  understood 
himself  when  he  wrote : 

"  Home,  home,  sweet,  sweet  home, 
Be  it  ever  so  humble, 
There  is  no  place  like  home." 

Having  tired  the  reader  with  ftiis  somewhat 
lengthy  narration,  and  trusting  that  the  perusal 
thereof  will  reward  him  for  his  pains,  I  bid  him 
adieu ! 


Full  List  of  Passengers  Aboard  the  "  Russia,"  No- 
vember i  8,  1874,  Bound  for  Liverpool. 

Mr.  Vincente  L.  Casares,  Buenos  Ayres. 

Mr.  Tomas  Torres, 

Mr.  Carlos  Casares,  " 

Mr.  Iwan  R.  Molina,  -  " 

Mrs.  E.  Haydock  White,  New  York  City. 

Miss  Ada  White, 

Miss  Eva  White,  *        " 

Mr.  William  Neely, 

Mr.  A.  Traver,  "        - 

Mr.  H.  Davidson,  "        « 

Mr.  Thomas  E.  Hanson. 
Mr.  H.  Bankart, 
Mr.  Et.  Allaire, . 
Mr.  P.  H.  Dunscombe,     . 
Mr.  H.  G.  Wheeler. 
Mr.  Wm.  Swale. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  G.  St.  Amant. 
Mr.  Charles  Johnston. 
Mr.  E.  Christ. 
Capt.  P.  Walker. 

Mr.  A.  S.  Rosenbaum,      •       .       New  York  City. 
Col.  O.  W.  Peabody  and  wife, .  "        " 

Mrs.  Chas.  D.  Hemans  and  maid. 
Mr.  Charles  C.  Marsh. 
Mr.  Emerson  Rhodes. 
Miss  Harding  and  maid. 
Mr.  E.  S.  Baker. 
(232) 


Geneva,  Switzerland. 
Liverpool,  England. 
Glasgow,  Scotland. 


PASSENGERS  ABOARD   THE  "  RUSSIA.  233 

Maj.  Arth.  Blennerhasset  Leech,     Ireland. 

Mr.  John  J.  Bagnall. 

Mr.  T.  B.  Coddington. 

Mr.  Marshall  O.  Roberts,         .        New  York  City. 

Rev.  D.  Mellor. 

Mr.  Thomas  Barnes. 

Mr.  John  Crossley,  M.P.,  .        .        Sheffield,  England. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Justin  P.  Kellogg. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Samuel  Wilkinson. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  F.  C.  Lawrence,  two  )  __      _,    ,    _. 

children  and  maid,  \  New  York  «** 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Fairchild,  and  Mas-  ?  New  york  Qty# 

ter  Fairchild,  ) 

Mr.  J.  E.  Raymond. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  V.  B.  Livingston. 
Mr.  James  T.  Woodward. 
Miss  Eliza  C.  Walker. 
Miss  Bigelow. 
Mr.  Wm.  Scully. 
Mr.  G.  W.  Turner. 
Mr.  Charles  Bloomfield. 

MR.  JOHN  S.  BENDER,        .        Plymouth,  Indiana. 
Mr.  Kulakowski,        ...        St.  Petersburg,  Russia. 
Mr.  Lewis  H.  Polak,         .        .        London,  England. 
Mr.  R.  Hardy. 
Mr.  Isaac  W.  How. 
Mr.  J.  O.  Bartholomew. 
Mrs.  W.  Heath,  two  children  and 

maid. 
Mrs.  Swan. 

Two  Misses  Potter,  .        .        .        Toronto,  Canada. 
Mr.  P.  H.  McGill.      .        .        .        Baltimore,  Md. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  W.  Wetmore  Cry- 

der,  two  children,  two  infants,  }-  New  York  City. 

nurse,  and  maid-servants. 


234       PASSENGERS  ABOARD  THE  "  RUSSIA." 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  W.  Walker. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  G.  P.  Clapp  and  man- 
servant. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  B.  P.  Kissam. 

Mr.  David  Chadwick,  M.P.,      .        London,  England. 
Mr.  George  W.  Egleston. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  T.  P.  L.  Goddard. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  H.  Nelson  Slatter. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Waterhouse. 
Rev.  Dr.  Hague. 
Mr.  P.  F.  Rose. 
Mr.  Alfred  C.  Harrison. 
Mr.  Herbert  M.  Howe. 
Mr.  Richard  A.  Potter. 
Mr.  George  Duncan. 
Miss  Pauline  Leveque. 
Mr.  J.  V.  Carpenter. 

Mr.  J.  L.  Townsend,  Jr.,    .        .        New  York  City. 
Mr.  Rheam. 
Mr.  Sneath. 
Mrs.  Shorey  and  child. 
Mr.  Burr. 

Mr.  E.  Nostrand,       .        .        .        New  York  City. 
Mr.  J.  K.  Collett. 
Mr.  W.  G.  Gardner. 
Mrs.  M.  A.  Richards,  child  &  maid. 
Miss  Hutchins. 
Mr.  Robert  Ferguson. 
Mr.  R.  C.  Hooper. 
Mr.  George  Hopkins. 
Mr.  W.  J.  McDelaney. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  W.  H.  Ballard. 
Mr.  R.  F.  Gregory. 
Mr.  Wm.  Parker,  ,        .        Hobart,  Indiana. 


Full  List  of  Passengers  Per  Royal  Mail  Steamer 

"Cuba,"  from  Liverpool  to  New  York, 

December  19,  1874. 

Mrs.  Anna  Aitkin. 

Mr.  D.  H.  Bailey,      . 

MR.  JOHN  S.  BENDER, 

Mr.  N.  Bliss,      . 

Mr.  George  N.  Bliss, 

Mr.  Wm.  Bragge, 

Mr.  and   Mrs.  Broadish,   Master 

Broad  ish,  and  maid. 
Mrs.  Jessie  Clayburn, 
Mr.  B.  Cohen,    . 
Mr.  Charles  Cowen,  . 
Dr.  F.  H.  Foster, 
Mr.  Thomas  Geddes, 
Mr.  Austin  Gray, 
Mr.  Geo.  Hamilton. 
Mr.  Chas.  Heaton,     . 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  A.  G.  Hopkins. 
Mr.  D.  Maclnnes. 
Mr.  J.  Morrison, 
Mr.  J.  P.  Marquand, 
Mr.  E.  Nostrand, 
Mr.  A.  Openhym, 
Mr.  M.  Phillip, 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Jas.  Pyle,  and  child. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Thos.  Rodman,  two  ) 

children  and  nurse,  J 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  David  Riply, 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Paul  Sgobel, 
Mr.  J.  M.  Sheeten,    . 
Mr.  G.  Valois,    .... 


Cincinnati,  Ohio. 

Plymouth,  Indiana. 

New  York. 
it 

Sheffield,  England. 

New  York. 

Islington,  London. 
New  York. 
Bergen  Point,  N.  J. 
Chicago,  111. 
Marshall,  Scotland. 
Fifth  Ave.  Hotel,  N.  Y. 

Stroudsburg,  Pa. 


London,  England. 

55  Mt.  Vernon,  Boston. 

New  York. 

City  of  Mexico. 

Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 

Newark,  N.  Y. 
Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 
San  Francisco,  Cal. 
Antwerp,  Belgium. 
(235) 


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